4. Presentación de análisis de resultados
4.3 III Variable: Crear un manual técnico de importación de mercancías, con los
The ability to take accurate measure-ments from body forms and live models is an important skill that all patternmak-ers must learn_ Working with a body form is less complicated than working with a live model. Body forms can be pinned into, drawn on, are always avail-able, and never gain or lose weight. Live models must be treated gently, their modesty needs to be respected, and they may gain or lose weight; however, your final garment is produced for alive per-son to wear. Live models are velY valu-able as fit models because they can move about, sit, walk, bend, and tell you ver-bally if the garment you have made is comfortable and practical.
Using the instructions in this chapter, you will be able to measure fit models of anyJunior's, Misses', or Women's size.
The designs shown in this textbook are drawn from a Misses' size 12 set of meas-urements. However, some of the styles shown may be appropriate for Junior's or Women's sizes. The instructions in this textbook will give you the knowledge to proportion the pattern styles to the size you are working with. Several charts of measurements are included in Chapter 3 to help you draft or drape the size of your choice. If your model's size is not included in the charts, just look at the increments between sizes and add or sub-tract these to arrive at the measurement for the size you need. Look at the size charts included later in this chapter before selecting a body form or live fit model with which to work. If you wish to
be able to grade a range of average sizes from your sample size, pick a fit model that closely resembles one of the sizes in the charts mentioned.
Note: For grading purposes, itis best to work with a sample size closest to the middle of the size range you wish to offer. If you wish to make custom clothing for a client orfor yourself, it doesn't matter what size your model is.
Aprofessional pattern maker must have a full-scale model for fitting patterns and garments. The pattern maker must take very precise measurements from the fit model and record them for future use.
These measurements are used to draft or drape very basic pattern pieces called slopers, which are the subject of Chapters 3 and 4. The slopers and the fit model measurements are then used to make flat patterns for almost unlimited styles.
Some styles or the textiles used to make them require pattern draping, which is covered in selected chapters. Measure-ments must be taken from a body form or live model carefully, so mistakes will not be transferred into the patterns, causing fit problems. If you wish to make pat-terns to fit yourself, have someone else take your measurements, because it is dif-ficult to take your own measurements accurately.
2
Checklist for Taking Measurements
1.Select a body form or live model as your fit model. You will need abody formwith legs if youwish to make pat-terns for such garments as pants, shorts, swimsuits, and bodysuits, or find a livemodel to measure forfitting these items.
2.Toprepare a body form for measuring, you will need the following items:
straight pins, narrow ribbon or twill tape, an accurate flexible tape meas-ure,and rulers that are 48to 60inches long or a carpenter's level (to check horizontal levels).
3.To prepare a live model for measur-ing, you will need the following:
straight pins, narrow elastic, thread for tailor tacks or chalk, an accurate flexible tape measure, and rulers that are 48 to 60 inches long or a car-penter's level (tocheck horizontal lev-els). Your live model should wear appropriate undergarments (a bra and underpants that give the wearer a natural shape foreveryday clothing), with either a full bodysuit orone that reaches to mid-thigh, which may be marked and sewn with elastic.
4. A copy of the measurements from this chapter, to be filled in and saved for future use. These measurements will be referred to throughout the text-book.
Note: Because panty hose or tights usually have tight waistbands and distort the waistline measurement, your model should not wear them during the measuring process.
Preparing the Body Form Figure 2.1
1.Place a pin 1 inch below the armhole plate at the side seam to mark the underarm/side seam intersection.
Leave this pin in the form for refer-ence.
Figure 2.2
2.Place a pin at the edge of the shoulder tip/armhole intersection. This point is located at the shoulder seam where the shoulder tipjust begins to curve downward toward the armhole plate.
I t is not at the top edge of the armhole plate, which is usually placed about
1/4inch below the curve of the shoul-der tip.
3. Place a pin directly across from the screw in the armplate, measured 1/4
inch into the fabric away from the plate-on the front, only-to mark the front mid-armhole point.
Figure 2.3
4. Establish the bustlevel. On thefrontof the form isthe apex or bust point
posi-tion. This is marked along the prin-cess seam on the right and left sides of the form at the fullest part of the bust mound or curve, which is at thelargest circumference of the bustline. Place pins at each apex/bust point and leave them in the form. Be sure both pins are the same height from the floor.
Next, take alength of narrow ribbon or twill tape and pin it from apex to apex without slack. Pin the ribbon completely around the form, parallel to the floor, to establish the bust level.
5. Establish the waistline. On most body forms, the waistline is marked by a woven tape. If your body form is not marked, measure the form to find the smallest circumference between the bust and hips, and pin ribbon or tape around the form at this level. Waist-lines are not necessarily perfectly par-allel to the floor. On adult females, the waistline may dip alittle at center back. This is normal; however, you should check that the waistline at the side seams measures an equal distance from the floor on the right and left sides. The waistline seam ismeasured at the center of the waistline tape.
6. Establish the hip level. Find thelargest circumference of the hips and but-tocks bymeasuring at several levels of the lower torso. Once you've found the level of the largest circumference, mark it with ribbon or tape parallel to the floor to establish the hip level.
This level will not necessarily touch the "hip bones"; it may be lower, nearer to the crotch level.
Preparing Live Models
Your model should wear abra and under-pants under a full bodysuit that can be marked, pinned, and sewn with elastic to establish the bust level, waistline, and the hip level. Panty hose and tights have snug waistbands that distort the waist measure-ment and should not be worn.
Figure 2.4
1. Place apin, or use chalk oratailor tack
(thread looped through fabric with
both ends sticking out) to mark aspot 1 inch below the model's underarm along her body.The model should not lift her arm when you mark this posi-tion and also when measuring to this
point, because the underarm hollows out as the arm lifts, which will distort the measurement.
2. Place apin below the model's under-arm on her arm.This placement isused for measuring the arm. The pin place-ment for the arm isdropped less from the underarm than the pin placement for the body to enable the sleeve cap area to fit into the armhole with the correct amount of ease. Many women have a large biceps circumference in proportion to their bust circum-ference. To fit a sleeve with the correct amount of cap ease, the cap height must be shortened at the underarm area. Only on models with slender arms or large bustlines, or both, may the underarm mark on the arm match the underarm mark on the body. For average-sized women (see Table 2.1, page 34), measure pin placement lj4
inch below the underarm on the model's arm.
Figure2.5
3.The model's shoulder/armhole inter-section isfound by pressing with your thumb or a finger in this area to find a dip between the bones. Mark this point on the model's bodysuit with a pin, chalk, or atailor tack. This posi-tion should be at the top of the shoul-der curve. If you cannot feel the dip between the bones, try to envision where the armhole seam would natu-rally meet at the model's shoulder and mark this point.
Figure2.6
4. Have the model raise her arm about 45 degrees from the floor and swing it slightly toward the center front until a crease forms, which marks where the front mid-armhole will be. Mark this point with a pin, chalk, ora tailor tack.
Figure 2.7
5. Establish the bust level. The apex or bust point position is at the nipple.
The apex marks the fullest portion of the bust mound. Mark the apexes with chalk, tailor tacks, or pins. The apexes should be the same height from the floor. Pin alength of narrow elastic from apex to apex without slack. Continue pinning the elastic around the model, keeping an equal distance from the floor, to establish the bust level. Sew the elastic onto the model's bodysuit so this position does not change for future fittings. Elastic stretches as your model removes the bodysuit.
Figure 2.8
6. Establish the waistline. Have your model bend to the side at the waist.
A crease will form at the natural waistline. Check that her underwear is not creating a false waist position.
Mark the waistline first with a pin or chalk, then pin narrow elastic around
the model's body. The waistline may dip down in the back, which is nor-mal for women. Sew the elastic onto the bodysuit for future fittings.
Figure 2.9
7. Establish the hip level. Find the largest circumference of the hips and but-tocks by measuring at several levels on the body. Once you've found the level of the largest circumference, mark it with elastic parallel to the floor to establish the hip level. Sew the elastic onto the model's bodysuit for future fittings.
Figure 2.10
8. Establish the center back neck posi-tion. This is found by pressing with your thumb or a finger in this area to find a dip between two prominent bones, which are vertebrae. Mark with chalk, a tailor tack or a pin.
Figure 2.11
9.To mark the crease in the back mid-armhole, leave your model's arm hang-ingdown. First, establish the shoulder blade level on the model. Measure the center back from the neckline down
to the waist = _
then divide this measurement by 4:
_____ 7-t= _
Using this final measurement, meas-ure from the neckline down along the center back and place a pin or tailor tack at this point. A line going through this point parallel to the floor iscalled the shoulder blade level. The back armhole seam runs along the crease formed between your model's body and arm with
the arm hanging down. The inter-section of the shoulder blade level and the armhole is called the back mid-armhole.
Figure 2. 12
10. Establish the shoulder/neckline inter-section. Visualize where the curve of the neckline seam would be if your model were wearing a collar that hugged the neck. (The collar in this photo is set too far from the natural neckline seam; thus, the pin mark is on the collar itself.) This position should also intersect at the top of the shoulder curve.
Figure 2.13
11. Establish the underarm/side seam intersection. The side seam of your model's body suit may not be in the correct position, so you will need to
mark this intersection with a pin, tai-lor tack, or chalk. This point should line up in the center of the underarm on the model's upper rib cage and should intersect with the pin that is placed 1inch below the underarm.
Figure2.14
12. Establish the side seam/waist inter-section. Again, keep in mind that the side seam of your model's body suit may not be in the correct position.
Visualize a straight line (or use along ruler) going halfway between the front and back of the model's leg and continuing straight up to the waist, and mark this point.
Upper Torso Measurements
Avoid pulling the tape measure tightly over the body as this will distort the meas-urements. Be gentle. Do not let a live model hold in her stomach or stand in an unnatural position. The following steps are shown on a body form, but the same measurements are needed if using a live model.
#1(Figure 2.15)
Total shoulder girth level= _
Measure all the way around the upper arms and body with tape measure parallel to the floor. If your body form does not
have arms, seeTable 2.1 (page 34) tofind the shoulder girth measurement that cor-responds with the shoulder width and biceps circumference ofyour model.
#2 (Figure 2.16)
Total upper chest level= _
Measure all the way around the upper chest under the arms. The tape measure may dip down a little inthe back.
#3 Total bust level= _
Measure allthe wayaround the largest cir-cumference of the bust, with the tape measure parallel tothe floor.
#4 (Figure 2. 17)
Total rib cage level= _
Measure all the way around the rib cage directly under the bust mound, parallel to the floor.
#5 Total waist level= _
Measure all the way around the smallest circumference of the torso. The waist level may dip inthe back.
#6 (Figure2.18)
Shoulder seam = _
Measure from the high neck point out to the shoulder/armhole intersection along the top of the shoulder.
#7(Figure 2. 19)
Half the front neckline = _
Measure from the high neck point around tothe pit of the neck.
#8 (Figure2.20)
Center front neck to shoulder tip= . Measure from the pit of the neck to the shoulder tip.
Note: Some body forms have a high center front neck position.
Check Table 2.1 (page 34)for a neckline circumference measure-ment that corresponds with your model's size. Measure your model's total neckline circumfer-ence to see if the center front neck needs to be dropped, and adjust it before filling in #7.
Measure straight out from center front to the mid-armhole point at the pin.
#10(Figure2.21)
Halfthe front upper chest= _
Measure straight out from center front to the side seam at the underarm, parallel to the floor.
#11Half the front bust level = _
Measure straight out from center front, over the bust point to the side seam, paral-lelto the floor.
#12Half the front rib cagelevel= _ Measure straight out from center front, directly under the bust mound to the side seam.
#13 (Figure 2.22)
Bust span= _
Measure from apex to apex for #13, then divide by 2 for #14.
#15 Half the front waist= _
Measure from center front waist over to the side/waist intersection.
#16(Figure 2.23)
Half the back neckline = _
Measure from the high neck point around to the center back neck.
#17 (Figure 2.24)
Center back neck to shoulder tip= _
#18Halfwav across shoulder blades =__ .
The shoulder blade level is found using one-fourth of the center back measure-ment from the neckline to the waistline.
Using the one-fourth measurement, meas-ure down from the neck and mark at center back for the shoulder blade level.
Obtain the "halfway across shoulder blades" measurement by measuring from center back over to the edge of the arm-hole plate or the pin on your live model.
#19Half the back upper chest= _ Measure from center back to the side seam at the underarm. The tape measure may dip down a little in the back.
#20 (Figure 2.25)
Halfthe back bustlevel= _ Measure straight out from center back to the side seam, parallel to the floor.
measure straight
Figure 2.26 across waist
circumference
#21Half thebackrib cagelevel= _
Measure straight out from center back to the side seam at the ribcage level, parallel to the floor.
#22Half thebackwaist= _
Measure from center back waist over to the side seam/waist intersection.
#23 (Figure2.26)
Dart placement = _
Measure out from center front to the princess seam on the body foml.
Figure 2.27
To find dart placement for live models or body forms without princess seams, measure straight (not curved) across the waistline from side to side (diameter) =
______ and divide this number
by 4 = .Then use
the chart below:
Add 3/8inch if#5 total waist level isless
than 25inches = _
Or, add 1/2inch if #5 total waist level is between 26 and 30 inches = _
Or, add 5/8 inch if#5 total waist level is between 31and 35inches = _
Or, add 3/4 inch if #5 total waist level is36
inches and up = _
Use this final measurement in the space for #23 where it says "Dart placement =
"
#24 (Figure2.28)
Side seamlength = _
Measure from the pin placed 1 inch below the underarm/armhole plate down to the waistline.
#25 (Figure 2.29)
High neckpoint to front side seam=__ .
Measure from the high neck point down the front to the underarm/side seam inter-section, which is marked with apin.
#26(Figure 2.30)
Highneck point to back side seam=__ . Measure from the high neck point down the back to the underarm/side seam inter-section, which is marked with apin.
#27 (Figure 2.31)
Center front length = _
Measure from thepit of the neck down the front to the waist over the tape between the bust mounds.
#28Front total length = "
Measure from the high neck point over the bust to the waist. Do not contour the tape measure in under the bust.
#29(Figure2.32)
Shoulder tiptocenter front waist = .
Measure from the shoulder tip, over the bust, and down to the center front waist.
Do not contour the tape measure in under the bust.
#31(Figure 2.33)
Bust radius = _
Measure from the apex along the princess line to just under the bust mound at the rib cage level.
#32(Figure 2.34)
Center back length = _
Measure from the back neck down to the waist.
#33 Backtotal length = ,
Measure from the high neck point down the back to the waist.
#34 (Figure 2.35)
Shoulder tip to center backwaist= .
Measure from the shoulder tip, over the back, and down to the center back waist.
Check Your Measurements
• Add #10 (half the front upper chest) and #19 (half the back upper chest)
together: + _
_____ . Now multiply by 2:
______ x 2 = _
This number should equal #2 (total upper chest level): .If not, check your measurements again.
• Add #11 (half the front bust level) and
#20 (half the back bust level) together:
--- +
---______ . Now multiply by 2:
_____ x 2= .This
number should equal #3 (total bust level): . If not, check your measurements again.
• Add #12 (half the fron t rib cage level) and #21 (half the back rib cage level)
together: + _
_____ . Now multiply by 2:
_____ x 2= .This
number should equal #4 (total ribcage
number should equal #4 (total ribcage