Traditionally the furniture-maker has relied upon the standard 2 ft (609 mm) fourfold rule, the joiner on the 3 ft (914 mm) pattern, both 41 Collection of tools
Measuring with rule
marked in eighths and sixteenths of an inch, and obtainable as standard or blindman's, the latter with extra bold figurings. For long lengths the standard boxwood rule or the engineer's long one-piece rule are preferable to flexible steel tapes which should not be used for highly critical work on the bench. Finely divided semi-flexible engineers' steel rules are very useful, also the stout square-end type not finely divided which can be used as either rule or short straight-edge, for if the edge of the rule is rubbed over the wood it will immediately high-light ridges and raised spots which are not discernible to the naked eye with a black metal shine. A useful accessory is the Stanley com-bination try-mitre-square and depth-gauge incorporating a sliding-rule (Figure 43:1), while the vernier caliper gauge (43:2) is invaluable for measuring exact thicknesses. These can be obtained as engineer's precision pattern, or as a more robust pattern specially designed for
43 Marking, measuring and testing tools (1)
woodworking. All rules should be used with the Straight-edges are essential in any workshop markings actually touching the work (Figure and should be plentiful (43:11); they are usually 42). made out of 1/2 in (12.5 mm) by 2 1/2 in
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(63.5 mm) mild Honduras mahogany, pine or redwood, waxed or varnished, and in a range of lengths up to 6 ft (1524 mm); while at least one metal straight-edge 4 ft (1.21 m) long or more should be provided for cutting veneers, etc.
Also necessary are winding-sticks (43:4) in matched pairs, usually about 2 ft (609 mm) long by 2 in (50 mm) wide by 1/2 in (12.5 mm) thick of good mahogany or similar wood planed truly parallel, the edges bevelled as shown and small sighting insets of white wood (43:4 A) inlaid into the rear stick. Stub dowels and sockets are also provided so that the sticks can be kept together and hung from a nail, as any deviation from the straight, or uneven shrinkage across the width of either, will result in false readings. If these sticks are placed at either end of a planed-up board and sighted through from a few feet away the white wood insets will immediately confirm any slight tilt, disclosing that the board is twisted, i.e. both edges may be straight but the diagonal is curved, giving a twist or wind to the wood. Squaring-rods (43:12) of about 1 in (25 mm) by 5/16 in (8 mm) straight-grained wood in various lengths and blocked and point-ed at one end are uspoint-ed for checking the square-ness of carcass openings, etc., for it is never safe to rely upon the try-square alone over a large area (see Carcass construction, Chapter 21).
Note: Introduction of the metric system will eventually necessitate changing the sizes of all standard tools now conforming to inch measurements. As this is likely to be a lengthy process, and as the conventional sizes to be adopted have not yet been established, all the tools mentioned in this and subsequent chapters are inch patterns with the approximate metric equivalents given in parentheses.
Gauges
Beech marking-gauges (43:3) are cheap enough and several should be provided, thus saving time in multiple layout work. The brass-plated variety offer no real advantage, but boxwood thumbscrews are preferable if they can be obtained as the plastic screws tend to snap off if dropped. In circular work the flat-faced gauge will give a false reading, and stubs of dowel-rod rounded over (43:5A) to give a two-point bearing are necessary, while for concave edges
one face of the gauge can be rounded (43:5B), and for pencil-use a hole can be bored in the end of the stem. Marking-gauges are primarily intended for scoring with or on the end grain; if used across the grain they will either scratch or tear unless the pins are needle sharp, and a cutting-gauge (43:6) is more suitable. This has a small knife in lieu of a steel pin, secured by a brass wedge shown alongside ( 4 3 : 6 A ) ; the knife is pointed and bevelled on one side and used with the bevel facing the fence, pulling the fence tight against the work and preventing any tendency for the knife to ride with the grain.
Mortise-gauges (43:9) are in effect double marking-gauges with two pins, one of which is adjusted for distance by a threaded rod passing through the stem. These gauges are usually made of rosewood which is a somewhat un-necessary refinement, for the brass movement is rarely good enough to last a lifetime, and the points of the pins wear out.
All these gauges are held in one hand tightly against the edge of the wood, the fence inclined away from the body and pushed forwards so that the pin is always trailing; the movement can then be reversed to impart a rocking movement to the gauge. (It is for the individual worker to find his own particular method of handling as with all other types of hand-tools.)
The long panel-gauge (43:10) is used for pencil gauging panels to width; a wooden wedge secures the fence which is rebated so that it does not tip under its own weight. The stick should not be less than about 20 in (508 mm) long to take in the extreme width of an average-size carcass. Figure 44:7 illustrates the T-gauge or grasshopper-gauge with extra long fence for riding over projecting mouldings as shown.
Squares, bevels, etc.
Joiners' try-squares can be either all-metal, metal blade secured in a rosewood stock (43:7) or L-shaped metal blade running through the stock; it hardly matters which so long as the square is accurate and sturdy enough to stand inadvertent dropping. It is useful to have three sizes, say 4 in (101mm), 8 in (203 mm) and 12 in (304 mm); while for highly critical work a 6 in (152 mm) precision-ground engineer's square (43:8) costs very little more than the equivalent 92
joiner's square. A useful accessory is the bright Mason's square or carpenter's standard square with legs 24 in (609 mm) and 18 in (457 mm) long for squaring greater widths, while some craftsmen make up their own large try-square (44:8) with 11 in (279 mm) by 2Vz in (63 mm) by 3/4 in (19 mm) stock and 20 in (508 mm) by 3 in (76 mm) by 1/4 in (6 mm) blade out of good mahogany, rosewood or ebony. A small inset stop (44:8A) is provided to support the heavy stock on the work. For setting out angles, dovetails, etc. the joiner's adjustable level/
T-bevel is used. The slotted screw adjustment shown in 44:1 is preferable to the brass lever
locking-nut, which often has a multi-start thread and if displaced and threaded in the wrong position will foul the work. Figure 44:4 shows a wooden template for marking out dovetails, cut out of a hardwood block about 21/2 in (63 mm) by 2 in (50 mm) by 13/4 in (44 mm) overall thickness, with the sides planed to the required angle, in this case 1 in 6 (see Dovetailing, Chapter 19). Other tools in this general section include marking-knives with hardwood handles ( 4 4 : 2 A ) , and striking-knives with awl ends (44:2B) for scribing. If the knife has a single cutting bevel only it can be used as an accurate trimming-knife. The Stanley
44 Marking, measuring and testing tools (2)
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45 Mitre tools trimming-knife is a useful all-purpose knife with
a wide range of blades, including a scoring-knife for the clean cutting of decorative laminated plastics (formica, etc.)- Good knives can also be made from old hacksaw blades with the teeth ground off, as shown in 44:3A, and also an excellent dovetail-marker ( 4 4 : 3 B ) which is more positive than the tip of the dovetail-saw customarily used. The carpenter's wing-compass with locking-screw is shown in 44:6, as ordinary compasses and dividers tend to catch in the grain and disturb the setting; while instead of the draughtsman's beam-compass, trammel-points (44:5) are used which slide along a suitable wooden beam. One head has a steel point and the other a socket for a pencil end.