Department of Human Ecology University of Alberta HECOL 254

(1)

Department of Human Ecology University of Alberta

HECOL 254: Apparel Design and Construction Fundamentals

Course Outline*

Fall Term 2017

A1/D1

Lecture/Lab: Tuesday, Thursday 2:00 – 4:50 Location: Room 110 Human Ecology Building

Instructor: Vlada Blinova E-mail: [email protected] Office: 1-03 Human Ecology Building Office hours: by appointment.

Teaching assistant - D1: Namami Nath E-mail: [email protected]

Calendar description: *3 (fi 6) (either term or Spring/Summer, 3-0-3). Beginner course in Apparel Design and Construction.

Prerequisites: One of HECOL 150, 170, or DES 135 or DES 138/139.

Course objectives:

In this studio course students develop fundamental awareness and skills for the textiles and clothing field including sewing and pressing equipment operation, design and construction terminology, pattern

manipulation and fit, and quality construction techniques. Students construct samples and garments with a focus on professional standards in problem-solving and production.

*Policy about course outlines can be found in §23.4(2) of the University Calendar.

(2)

2

Text:

• Amaden-Crawford, Connie (2011) A Guide to Fashion Sewing, Fairchild Books.

New York.

Reference texts:

• Shaeffer, Clair B. (2012). Sewing for the Apparel Industry. Prentice Hall Inc., Upper Saddle River, New Jersey

• Shaeffer, Claire. (2008). Shaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide. Chilton Book Company, Radnor, Pennsylvania

Assignments, distribution of weight, and due dates:

Production samples - 30% of final grade Due dates: Sept. 21 at 2:00 pm Oct. 5 at 2:00 pm Nov. 23 at 2:00 pm

Skirt - 25% of final grade Due date: Oct. 26 at 2:00 pm Quiz - 10% of final grade Due dates: Nov. 23 2:00 – 3:00 pm Top - 25% of final grade Due date: Dec.7 at 4:50 pm Time management and

academic participation - 10% of final grade

STUDENTS ARE EXPECTED TO DO THEIR WORK IN THE LAB TIME.

At least 50% of each stage of your project must be completed in the lab, otherwise projects may not be accepted for marking.

The instructor has the right to ask students to verify their work. Projects submitted late will be penalized at 10% of the total mark for each day the project is late.

If for some reason you cannot meet the deadline, please notify your instructor as soon as possible.

(3)

3

Grading system:

Students will be evaluated on the basis of their performance on several assignments that use a variety of skills and abilities. The assignments include: construction of samples, quiz, and production of garments.

Time management, professionalism and academic participation will be also evaluated. Each of these will be weighted in determining the final grade.

Evaluation of assignments is expressed in raw marks throughout the term. A final cumulative score out of 100 points is translated into a letter grade based on the University four-point grading system. Assignment of final grades is based on a combination of absolute achievement and relative performance in this course.

Excellent: A+ 4.0 Outstanding: The student has demonstrated an extraordinary grasp of the course content and performance reflects creativity and innovation, in addition to a high level of analytical ability.

A 4.0 Excellent: The student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content and a high level of analytical ability.

A - 3.7 Student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content, but has not shown the same level of analytical ability as students receiving an A.

Good: B+ 3.3 The student has demonstrated a sound understanding of course material, with superior understanding being evident in some topics.

B 3.0 The student has demonstrated a uniformly sound understanding of course material.

B- 2.7 The student has demonstrated a generally sound understanding of course material, but there are some areas in which depth of understanding is limited.

Satisfactory: C+ 2.3 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of course content with sound understanding of some topics.

C 2.0 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of all of the central dimensions of the course.

C- 1.7 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of most central dimensions of the course, but lacks knowledge of one or two topics.

Poor: D+ 1.3 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge in one or more of the central dimensions of the course, and has very superficial understanding of most topics.

Minimal Pass: D 1.0 The student’s performance is only minimally acceptable due to a lack of understanding of several central dimensions of course content.

Failure: F 0.0 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge of most of the course content.

(4)

4

Class policy:

• food or drinks are not permitted in the lab

• cell phones must be turned off during the lecture and lab time

• audio or video recording, digital or otherwise, of lectures, labs, seminars or any other teaching environment by students is allowed only with the prior written consent of the instructor or as a part of an approved accommodation plan. Student or instructor content, digital or otherwise, created and/or used within the context of the course is to be used solely for personal study, and is not to be used or distributed for any other purpose without prior written consent from the content author(s).

• for safety and security reasons, students are not allowed to admit visitors into the lab during class time and outside class hours without permission from the instructor

• students are responsible for cleaning their work stations and putting all equipment away after each lab. Insure that all sewing equipment is turned off and cleaned, machine attachments are properly stored inside of the attachment compartment, bobbin case is in place, irons are unpluggedand water is drained from irons’ water tanks, table surface is cleaned from fabric scraps, tape, loose threads, and pins

Lockers and workstations:

Lockers are available outside room 110. Lockers and workstations in room 110 may be signed out through the lab assistant on a first come basis.

On the last day of class:

• all drafting tools, sewing and pressing equipment must be returned to workstations

• all personal belongings must be removed from the lockers and workstations

• locks, workstation keys and bobbins from sewing machines must be returned to the instructor Students must pick up marked projects from the lab within 2 weeks after the end of term. After this time the projects will be disposed of.

Equipment and supplies:

Fabric and notions for production samples will be provided by the instructor Sewing supplies (provided by students):

• fabric shears

• trimming scissors

• seam ripper

• metric measuring tape

• metric seam gauge

• hand-sewing needles (sharps 5/10

assortment)dressmaker steel or brass pins

• vanishing fine line fabric marker, clay or disappearing tailor's chalk

• white all-purpose Polyester thread: one (1) 250m spool of Gutterman thread or two (2) 150m spools of Mettler thread

Other supplies (provided by students):

• paper scissors

• paper (letter size)

• 3-ring binder (medium or large)

• twenty (20) paper protector sheets

Each student will purchase the following for final garments production:

• skirt and top (blouse or shirt) patterns

• fabric (including interfacing)

• threads and notions (buttons, zippers, etc.)

(5)

5

Code of student behaviour:

The University of Alberta is committed to the highest standards of academic integrity and honesty.

Students are expected to be familiar with these standards regarding academic honesty and to uphold the policies of the University in this respect.

Students are particularly urged to familiarize themselves with the provisions of the Code of Student Behaviour (online at http://www.ombudservice.ualberta.ca/en/CodeofStudentBehaviourIssues.aspx and avoid any behaviour which could potentially result in suspicions of cheating, plagiarism, misrepresentation of facts and/or participation in an offence. Academic dishonesty is a serious offence and can result in suspension or expulsion from the University.

30.3.2(1) Plagiarism

No Student shall submit the words, ideas, images or data of another person as the Student’s own in any academic writing, essay, thesis, project, assignment, presentation or poster in a course or program of study.

30.3.2(2) Cheating

30.3.2(2) a No Student shall in the course of an examination or other similar activity, obtain or attempt to obtain information from another Student or other unauthorized source, give or attempt to give information to another Student, or use, attempt to use or possess for the purposes of use any

unauthorized material.

30.3.2(2) b No Student shall represent or attempt to represent him or herself as another or have or attempt to have himself or herself represented by another in the taking of an examination, preparation of a paper or other similar activity. See also misrepresentation in 30.3.6 (4).

30.3.2(2) c No Student shall represent another’s substantial editorial or compositional assistance on an assignment as the Student’s own work.

30.3.2(2) d No Student shall submit in any course or program of study, without the written approval of the course Instructor, all or a substantial portion of any academic writing, essay, thesis, research report, project, assignment, presentation or poster for which credit has previously been obtained by the Student or which has been or is being submitted by the Student in another course or program of study in the University or elsewhere.

30.3.2(2) e No Student shall submit in any course or program of study any academic writing, essay, thesis, report, project, assignment, presentation or poster containing a statement of fact known by the Student to be false or a reference to a source the Student knows to contain fabricated claims (unless acknowledged by the Student), or a fabricated reference to a source.

Please speak with your instructor if you have any questions or concerns about the Code, particularly as it pertains to team/group assignments, internet research and lab work.

(6)

6

HECOL 254 Tentative Class Schedule *

Fall 2017

Week Dates Lecture Topics and Lab Activities

Required Reading

1

Sept. 5 Introduction Course outline and assignments Lab policy

Distribution of workstations and lockers

Course Syllabus

Sept. 7 Sewing and pressing equipment operation Production samples:

Seams and seam finishes Darts

A-C, Chapter 1 (general information about tools and equipment)

PFAFF sewing machine manual A-C, Chapter 7, 8 (refer to the list of samples in course syllabus to select appropriate production method)

2

Sept. 12 Apparel fabrics

Grain and pattern layout Introduction to stabilizers Production samples (cont.):

Seams and seam finishes Darts

A-C, Chapter 2 (fashion fabrics and stabilizers)

A-C, Chapter 7, 8 (refer to the list of seam and dart samples in course syllabus to select appropriate production method) For the gathering and ruffle sample use method from Chapter 6 (A-C)

Sept. 14

Students to bring examples of ready-to-wear garment (shirt or skirt). No knits.

No lining.

Industrial equipment Stitches and seams Edge finishes

Problem solving – garment examination.

Preparation for production of hem samples

Class notes and handouts A-C, Chapter 6 (stitches)

Students are responsible for finding appropriate chapters/paragraphs with key terms and concepts for all edge finishes (interior and exterior) reviewed in the lecture

3

Sept. 19 Production samples:

Narrow hem

Machine blindstitch hem Corner hem with hand hemming

A-C, Chapter 21 (Corner hem) PFAFF sewing machine manual and demonstration (Blindstitch hem)

Class handout and demonstration (Narrow hem)

(7)

7

3

Sept. 21 Samples of seams, seam finishes, darts and hems due Sept. 21 at 2:00 pm

Body measurements Figure types

Shaping devices Ease

Pattern sizing and selection Pattern markings

Production samples:

Invisible zipper Lapped zipper

Class notes

A-C, Chapter 3 (body types and size charts)

A-C, Chapter 9 (pleats, tucks)

A-C, Chapter 12 (invisible and lapped zipper application)

4

Sept. 26 Skirt styles

Waist finishes and closures Pocket styles

Specification sheet and technical drawing

Problem solving – skirt flats (students to bring paper, pencil, and eraser)

Class notes and handouts A-C, Chapter 20 (waistlines)

A-C, Chapter 12 (Zippers. Key terms and concepts)

A-C, Chapter 22 (Closures)

A-C, Chapter 13 (Pockets. Key terms and concepts)

Sept. 28 Production samples:

Patch pocket Front-hip pocket In-seam pocket

A-C, Chapter 13 (refer to the list of pocket samples in course syllabus to select appropriate production methods).

Demonstration of selected production steps

5

Oct. 3 Production samples (cont.):

Patch pocket Front-hip pocket In-seam pocket

Concave/convex curve with facing

A-C, Chapter 13 (refer to the list of pocket samples in course syllabus to select appropriate production methods) Class handout (concave/convex facing sample), demonstration of selected production steps

Oct. 5 Samples of pockets, closures and facing due Oct. 5 at 2:00 pm Students to bring skirt patterns and fabrics

Selection of skirt pattern size Layout and cutting

Discussion of the production sequence

Skirt production

Class notes

Pattern instructions for selected commercial patterns

A-C, Chapter 4 (pattern and fabric layout, transferring pattern markings)

(8)

8

6

Oct. 10 Skirt production Pattern instructions for selected commercial patterns, class notes and textbook material related to the specific production techniques.

Oct. 12 Skirt production -//-

7

Oct.17 Skirt production -//-

Oct.19 Skirt production -//-

8

Oct. 24 Skirt production -//-

Oct. 26

Skirt and spec sheet due Oct.

26 at 2:00 pm

Shirt/blouse styles Sleeve and collar styles Cuffs and plackets Problem solving – shirt flats (students to bring paper, pencil, and eraser)

Preparation for production of sleeve placket and cuff sample

Class notes and handouts

A-C, Chapters 14, 15, 16 (key terms and concepts, styles)

9

31 Production samples:

Continuous placket with cuff

A-C, Continuous sleeve placket (pp.236- 237)

A-C, Cuff - standard sewing method, (pp 243-244)

Demonstration of selected production steps

Nov.2 Production samples:

Convertible collar with button closure

Class notes and handouts

A-C, collar (pp. 254-255; skip step 6) A-C, collar and facing attachment (pp.261- 262)

PFAFF sewing machine manual and demonstration (button closure)

10

Nov.7

Students to bring top patterns and fabrics on Nov. 7

Selection of shirt pattern size Layout and cutting

Discussion of the production sequence

Shirt/blouse production

Class notes

Nov.9 Shirt/blouse production Pattern instructions for selected commercial patterns, class notes and textbook material related to the specific production techniques.

(9)

9

11 No classes on Nov. 13-17 - Fall Term Reading Week

12

Nov.21 Preparation for quiz Finish production samples Shirt/blouse production

Class notes, handouts, production samples

A-C, Chapter 4 (pattern and fabric layout, transferring pattern markings) Nov.23

Continuous placket with cuff and convertible collar samples due Nov. 23 at 2:00 pm

Quiz 2:00 – 3:00 pm on Nov.

23

Shirt/blouse production

Class notes

13

Nov.28 Shirt/blouse production -//-

Nov.30 Shirt/blouse production -//-

14

Dec.5 Shirt/blouse production -//-

Dec.7

Shirt/blouse and spec sheet must be turned in for marking by 4:50 pm Dec.7

Finishing shirt/blouse assignment

Assignment submission in the end of class

-//-

A-C – A Guide to Fashion Sewing by Connie Amaden-Crawford (5^th edition)

*The above Schedule may be altered at the discretion of the instructor. Any changes will be announced in advance for your convenience.

(10)

10

Due September 21 at 2:00 Due October 5 at 2:00 Due November 23 at 2:00 Seams and

seam finishes

Darts Hems Pockets Closures Facing, sleeve, and collar

Plain seam with backstitching and serged edges

Straight tapered dart

Double-turn or narrow hem

Patch pocket Lapped zipper closure

Concave/convex shaped facing

Plain seam with topstitching seam (seam allowances pressed open)

Machine blindstitched hem

Front hip pocket

Invisible zipper closure

Continuous sleeve placket with cuff

French seam Corner hem

with hand hemming (blindstitched)

In-seam pocket

Convertible collar with neck facing and 2-button closure

Slot seam

Bound seam finish Curved

adjoining seam

Corner

adjoining seam

Ruffle applied in a seam