HECOL 476/576 Textile Analysis & Care - University of Alberta

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UNIVERSITY OF ALBERTA Department of Human Ecology

Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences

HECOL 476/576 Textile Analysis & Care Fall 2017 – Course Outline

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Deterioration and preservation of modern and historical textiles is addressed. Macro and micro evidence is combined with theories of fibre degradation and textile soiling to identify the causes of material wear, discolouration and failure during the normal use, care and storage of textiles. Methods of wet and dry cleaning and special precautions for the care of ancient and historical textiles are covered. Prerequisite: HECOL 270

Instructor:

Dr. Jane Batcheller

B19 Human Ecology Building

Phone: 780‐492‐7677 Email: [email protected] Office Hours: by appointment through Email

Class Time:

9:30 – 10:50 a.m. Tuesday & Thursday

Location:

B10 & B12, Human Ecology Building

Course Website:

Course materials (outline, assignment descriptions and related information) will be posted on eClass. Lecture notes will not be available on line.

Course objectives and Competencies:

When you have successfully completed the course, you will be able to:

 Use the microscope to identify fibers, investigate care‐related problems and observe textile degradation.

 Describe how the properties of major fiber types are changed through exposure to light, acids/bases, heat, air pollutants, microorganisms, water, organic solvents, and soil burial.

 Describe conditions that enhance the preservation of textiles.

 Explain how soils are removed in wet cleaning and drycleaning with organic solvents.

 Describe current practice in home laundering and commercial drycleaning.

 Research a textile issue related to the course, prepare a report and present findings.

Optional Textbook:

You may find one of these textbooks useful as a reference. Required readings will be posted on eClass.

Kadolph, S. J. & Marcketti, S. B. (2017). Textiles (12^th ed.). Boston, MA: Pearson. (or earlier edition) Collier, B. J., Bide, M., & Tortora, P. G. (2009). Understanding Textiles (7^th ed.). Upper Saddle River, NJ:

Pearson Prentice Hall.

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Assignments, examinations and grading:

Course Component Date Weight

Mid‐term examination, B10 (1 Hr) 9:30 – 10:30 Oct 17, Tues 25%

Final examination, B10 (2 Hr) 9:00 – 11:00 Dec 19, Tues 35%

Lab exercises various due dates 15%

Research paper and pdf copy of presentation due Nov 21, Tues 15%

Presentation of research paper (15 min) Nov 21, 23, 28 & 30 10%

Detailed information about Lab exercises and the research paper will be distributed during the term.

Access to representative evaluative materials (e.g. examples of assignments and practice exam questions) will be through eClass.

Exams:

Both mid‐term and final exams will be composed of short and long answer questions based on the material presented in lectures as well as material covered in the required readings. The use of electronic devices, including calculators, is not permitted in the examinations.

Policy on missed exams:

Midterm

If a student misses the midterm exam for a valid reason, such as illness or bereavement, a new time will be set by the instructor for the student to write the missed exam.

Final

Instructors can neither give permission to a student to miss the final exam nor grant a request for a deferred final exam. The decision to allow a deferred final exam can only be granted by your Faculty.

The University policy on deferred exams can be found in Section 23.3 (2) of the University Calendar. It includes specific instructions on how to obtain a deferral.

Policy on late assignments:

Lab exercises received after 6:00 pm on the due date will not be graded and will receive a raw score of zero, unless the student can demonstrate a valid reason, such as illness or bereavement, for the late completion.

Research papers and presentations received after 6:00 pm on the due date will be penalized 10% for each day (24 hours) that the assignment is late. Assignments submitted more than three days late will not be graded and will receive a raw score of zero, unless the student can demonstrate a valid reason, such as illness or bereavement, for the late completion.

Lecture and lab Policy:

 Food and drink are not permitted in the lecture/lab rooms HECOL B10 and B12.

 Cell phones must be turned off during the lecture and lab time.

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 Audio or video recording, digital or otherwise, of lectures or labs by students is allowed only with the prior written consent of the instructor or as a part of an approved accommodation plan.

 Student or instructor content, digital or otherwise, created and/or used within the context of the course is to be used solely for personal study, and is not to be used or distributed for any other purpose without prior written consent from the content author(s).

Grading system:

The evaluation of assignments and examinations will be recorded as raw marks throughout the term. A final cumulative score out of 100 points is translated into a letter grade based on the university four‐

point grading system (see below). Assignment of final grades is based on a combination of absolute achievement and relative performance in this course.

Excellent: A+ 4.0 Outstanding: The student has demonstrated an extraordinary grasp of the course content and performance reflects creativity and innovation, in addition to a high level of analytical ability.

A 4.0 Excellent: The student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content and a high level of analytical ability.

A‐ 3.7 Student has demonstrated superior understanding of the course content, but has not shown the same level of analytical ability as students receiving an A.

Good: B+ 3.3 The student has demonstrated a sound understanding of course material, with superior understanding being evident in some topics.

B 3.0 The student has demonstrated a uniformly sound understanding of course material.

B‐ 2.7 The student has demonstrated a generally sound understanding of course material, but there are some areas in which depth of understanding is limited.

Satisfactory: C+ 2.3 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of course content with sound understanding of some topics.

C 2.0 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of all of the central dimensions of the course.

C‐ 1.7 The student has demonstrated adequate awareness of most central dimensions of the course, but lacks knowledge of one or two topics.

Poor: D+ 1.3 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge in one or more of the central dimensions of the course, and has very superficial understanding of most topics.

Minimal Pass: D 1.0 The student’s performance is only minimally acceptable due to a lack of understanding of several central dimensions of course content.

Fail: F

F(R)

*

0.0 The student has demonstrated a lack of knowledge of most of the course content.

*F(R) denotes eligibility of a student to apply for a re‐examination in a course

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Code of student behaviour:

The University of Alberta is committed to the highest standards of academic integrity and honesty.

Students are expected to be familiar with these standards regarding academic honesty and to uphold the policies of the University in this respect. Students are particularly urged to familiarize themselves with the provisions of the Code of Student Behaviour and avoid any behaviour which could potentially result in suspicions of cheating, plagiarism, misrepresentation of facts and/or participation in an offence. Academic dishonesty is a serious offence and can result in suspension or expulsion from the University. Code of Student Behaviour Online at

http://www.governance.ualberta.ca/en/CodesofConductandResidenceCommunityStandards/CodeofStude ntBehaviour.aspx )

The following statements from the Code of Student Behaviour are particularly important:

30.3.2(1) Plagiarism. No student shall submit the words, ideas, images or data of another person as the student’s own in any academic writing, essay, thesis, project, assignment, presentation or poster in a course or program of study.

30.3.2 (2)a Cheating. No student shall, in the course of an examination or other similar activity, obtain or attempt to obtain information from another student or other unauthorized source, give or attempt to give information to another student, or use, attempt to use, or possess for the purposes of use, any unauthorized material.

30.3.2(2)c Cheating. No student shall represent another’s substantial editorial or compositional assistance on an assignment as the student’s own work.

For more information, please consult:

The Office of Student Conduct and Accountability at: http://www.ualberta.ca/studentconduct . Navigate to relevant sections for students, including subheadings under Academic Integrity Undergraduate Handbook, or graduate handbook as appropriate.

Writing and studying assistance:

Help and strategies for writing, studying and preparing for exams are available through the following centres on campus:

Student Success Centre: http://www.studentsuccess.ualberta.ca/

Centre for Writers: http://www.c4w.ualberta.ca/

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Class schedule:

Week &

Dates Lecture Topics Readings

Week 1 Sep 5 & 7

Course Introduction

LEC 1 & 2 – Review how fibre structure affects textile properties & fibre bonds

separate list

Week 2 Sep 12 & 14

LEC 3 – Textile degradation – observations and methods of analysis

LAB 1 – Microscopic examination – fibre identification, cross sections Week 3

Sep 19 & 21

LEC 4 – Physical wear – e.g. abrasion damage

LEC 5 – Biodeterioration (micro‐organisms and insects) Week 4

Sep 26 & 28

LAB 2 – Micro‐organisms and insects – microscopic examination

LEC 6 – Oxidation – Light induced photo oxidation/degradation Week 5

Oct 3 & 5

LEC 7 – Chemical damage from acids, bases, and water hydrolysis

LEC 8 – Degradation from acidic fumes (air pollution) and soiling Week 6

Oct 10 & 12

LEC 9 – Review for midterm & LAB – Chemical and light exposure

LAB 3 – Assessing deterioration from acids/bases and photo‐oxidation Week 7

Oct 17 & 19

Oct 17 – Mid‐term exam

LEC 10 – Textile Care – Wet cleaning

Week 8 Oct 24 & 26

LEC 11 – Textile Care – Dry cleaning

LEC 12 – Bleaching and specialized cleaning

Week 9 Oct 31 & Nov 2

LAB 4 – Analysis of care‐related fabric deterioration

LEC 13 – Preservation – storage – controlling the environment Week 10

Nov 7 & 9

Nov 7 – No Lecture (work independently on research report)

LEC 14 – Special conditions for textile preservation Week 11

Nov 14 & 16 No classes – Fall break

Week 12 Nov 21 & 23

Research Reports & Presentations due – group 1

Presentation of research reports – group 2

Week 13 Nov 28 & 30

Week 14 Dec 5 & 7

LEC 15 – Archaeological textiles

LEC 16 – Course & exam review

Tuesday, Dec. 19^th Final Exam – room B10 9:00‐11:00 am

Note: The course schedule may be altered at the discretion of the instructor. Any changes will be announced in advance.

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Readings:

Lecture Articles

LEC 3 Holker, J.R. (1988). Weathering. Textiles, 17(3), 64‐71.

Batcheller, J.C. (2005). Optical and scanning electron microscopy for the identification of hair fibres from Roman‐Egyptian textiles. In R. Janaway and P. Wyeth (eds.), Scientific Analysis of Ancient and Historical Textiles: Informing Preservation, Display and Interpretation (pp. 51‐56). London: Archetype Publications.

LEC 4 Taylor, H.M. (1978). Abrasion in fabrics. Textiles, 7(2), 36‐40.

LEC 5 Hamlyn, P.F. (1989). Talking rot and mildew. Textiles, 18(2) 46‐50.

LEC 6 Grattan, D.W. (1978). The oxidative degradation of organic materials and its

importance in deterioration of artifacts. Journal of the International Institute for Conservation‐Canadian Group, 4 (1), 17‐26.

Holker, J.R. (1988). Weathering. Textiles, 17(3), 64‐71.

Tucker, P., Kerr, N., & Hersh, S.P. (1985). Photochemical damage of textiles. In Textiles and Museum Lighting, Symposium, Washington, DC, December 1980 (pp. 23‐40).

Harpers Ferry, WV: Harpers Ferry Regional Textile Group.

LEC 7 ‐ 8 Tímar‐Balázsy, Á and Eastop, D. (1998). Chemical principles of textile conservation (pp.25‐55). Oxford: Butterworth‐Heinemann.

LEC 10 Lloyd, J. & Adams, C. (1989). Domestic laundering of textiles. Textiles, 18(3), 72‐80.

LEC 11 Shepley, M.A. (1981) Drycleaning. Textiles, 10(2), 47‐51.

LEC 13 Cooke, B. (1990). Fibre damage in archaeological textiles. In S. A. O’Connor and M.M.

Brooks (eds.), Archaeological Textiles, Proceedings of the Conference, Textiles for the Archaeological Conservator, York, UK April 1988 (pp. 5‐14). Gainsborough: UKIC.

Gillard, R.D., Hardman, S.M., Thomas, R.G. & Watkinson, D.E. (1994). The mineralization of fibres in burial environments. Studies in Conservation, 39, 132‐140.

Skals, I. & Shashoua, Y.R. (2006). Sticky oilskins and stiffened rubber: new challenges for textile conservation. In C. Rogerson and P. Garthside (eds.), The Future of the 20th Century: Collecting, Interpreting and Conserving Modern Materials (pp. 84‐91).

London: Archetype Publications.

Painter, T.J. (1991). Preservation in peat. Chemistry & Industry, 17, 421‐424.

Additional references:

Carraher, Jr., C.E. (2003). Reactions of polymers. In Polymer chemistry (6th Ed., pp. 555‐561). New York:

Marcel Dekker.

Feller, R.L. (1977). Stages in the deterioration of organic materials. In J.C. Williams (Ed.), Preservation of paper and textiles of historic and artistic value. Advance in chemistry series 164 (pp. 314‐335).

Washington, DC: American Chemical Society.

Lewin, M. (Ed.). (2007). Handbook of fiber chemistry (3rd ed.). New York: Taylor & Francis Group.

Mills, J. S., & White, R. (1994). Deterioration: causes and prevention. In The organic chemistry of museum objects (2nd ed., pp. 160‐168). Oxford: Butterworth‐Heinemann.

Tímar‐Balázsy, Á and Eastop, D. (1998). Chemical principles of textile conservation (pp.16‐19, 23‐31, 45‐48, 51‐