Aplicación del diseño experimental

On flared designs such as gored, trumpet, A-line, and circular skirts, the raw hem edge is the widest part of the skirt. The excess fullness caused by the slide the iron along the hemline, which is on the

crossgrain. Instead, lower the iron onto the fabric, press, then lift the iron and reposition it.

4. Continue pressing, working your way around the entire hem. When pressing with steam or a damp press cloth, press a second time without moisture to dry the hem section before moving on to the next (see “Pressing Techniques,” p. 61).

5. Mark the hem depth with chalk. With wrong side up and the hem toward you, measure the finished hem depth from the fold. If the upper hem is to be finished with a folded edge, add 1_{⁄4 in. to}

the desired finished depth. Trim away any excess above the chalked line.

6. Finish the raw edge appropriately (see “Seam Finishes,” p. 44).

7. Pin the hem flat against the garment, setting the pins on an angle and with the heads away from you. Baste about 1_{⁄4 in. below the pinned edge.}

When the garment is backed, pin the hem only to the backing layer.

8. Right side out, spread the garment on the table with the hem toward you.

1_⁄4”

PlAin Hem folded, Pinned, And BASted foR StitcHing

Hem

1_⁄4” Overcast

Baste

two wAyS to Hold gARment foR Hemming

Blindstitches

Hemming FaBrics tHat do not WrinKle

1_⁄8”

Heming FaBrics tHat WrinKle

flare is concentrated near the seamlines. If this extra fabric is not eliminated or controlled, the garment will not hang properly, the hem will not lie flat against the skirt, and the excess bulk may show through to the outside of the garment.

The simplest method for controlling fullness on a curved wool hem is to shrink out the excess fullness with heat and moisture. The curved corners on a bouclé wool Balenciaga jacket shown above were finished in this manner. Folding small darts into a hem is another effective means of controlling the fullness when fabric cannot be shrunk. Although the wrong side of the hem will not look as neat as a hem allowance shrunk with easing, the hem will hang attractively when the garment is worn. This method of controlling fullness is more likely to be used on a lined garment.

Some cottons, linens, silks, and other fabrics, like the velvet dress shown at right, however, cannot be shrunk effectively, and the fullness in a curved hem of these fabrics would have to be handled with dressmaker techniques including small darts in the hem or using the hemming stitches themselves. Darting would be used on crisp fabrics, while eliminating fullness with hemming stitches would be preferable for lighter-weight fabrics.

controlling Fullness.

1. Fold the hem to the wrong side on the thread- traced hemline; baste 1_{⁄8 in. from the folded edge.}

The excess fullness will cause the hem to ripple.

2. Wrong side up, press just the folded edge without pressing over the ripples on the hem allowance.

3. Measure and mark the hem allowance so it’s even; trim to reduce the depth.

claire’s hint

hem allowance provides weight, a very narrow hem will change the way the skirt drapes.

4. Match and pin the seamlines on the hem and skirt. Smooth and pin the hem against the garment wrong side, working from the front and back centers to the seamlines. As the skirt begins to flare, the excess fullness will form ripples perpendicular to the hemline.

5. Pin the hem allowance to the garment, setting the pins at right angles to the edge and

eASe tHe fAcing to tHe lining Seam Folded edge Lining

This bias-cut dress from the 1930s drapes softly at the neckline. The smoothness of the drape belies the garment’s excess fullness, which has been skillfully controlled on the hem allowance. in addition, the dress fastens with two zippers at the shoulders, an underarm zipper, and buttons and loops at the wrist.

(Photo by Taylor Sherrill. Author’s collection.)

inset: on the inside, the stitches have been carefully placed between the ripples. (Photo by Taylor Sherrill. Author’s collection.)

from 1 in. to 3 in. apart—the tighter the curve, the closer the pins. The excess fullness will stand up in small ripples between the pins. To avoid distorting the hang of the garment, keep the ripples perpendicular to the hemline.

6. Baste near the top of the hem allowance without flattening the ripples. Using blindstitches, sew the hem between the ripples.

double-stitched Hem. When the fabric is heavy, the weight of the hem will pull on the hemming stitches, causing them to show on the right side. A simple solution is to hem the garment twice or three times—first at the midpoint of the hem allowance depth, then near the finished edge.

1. For a double hem, mark the hem depth and place a row of basting stitches midway between the hemline and the upper finished edge. For a triple hem, divide the hem allowance into thirds.

2. Use blindstitches or blind catchstitches to hem the garment at the basted line.

3. Baste and hem again at the top of the hem allowance as you would normally.