Touring with Madeleine Lavine:
You may want a hire a private guide to see all that this amazing city has to offer, and my strong recommendation on that score ismy strong recommendation on that score is
Madeleine LavineMadeleine Lavine
, who served for several years on the YMCA staff before taking up full-time guiding. (Madeleine is pictured on the right.) She is knowledgeable, very pleasant, professional, and has a delightful, dry sense of humor that shows her roots in Leeds, England. Madeleine offers a wide range of tours; even though I have been to Jerusalem twelve times and explored seemingly everywhere, she consistently- 51 -
shows me aspects of the city that are completely new to me. She also offers individual or group Four Quarters tours, tours of the Mount of Olives and the Old City, and just about anything you can imagine. Madeleine is licensed to drive people around the country as well. Madeleine isMadeleine is my top recommendation for a tour guide for Jerusalem and elsewhere in Israel, and I my top recommendation for a tour guide for Jerusalem and elsewhere in Israel, and I cannot speak highly enough of her.
cannot speak highly enough of her. You can reach her atYou can reach her at [email protected]@smile.net.il,, or at (02) 678- or at (02) 678- 0058 (home) or (054) 450-4098 (cell).
0058 (home) or (054) 450-4098 (cell).You can learn more about her work by reading her blog at www.touringwithmadeleine.blogspot.com. There are other guides who enjoy good reputations, and still others, including some recommended on Trip Advisor, whom I would frankly avoid. If you wish, you can e-mail me privately for more information on others. But trust me—you’re in good hands with Madeleine.
Whether with a guide or on your own, key sites in the Old City include the
Arab Market Arab Market
on David Street inside the Jaffa Gate, andBurnt House and Herodian HouseBurnt House and Herodian House
, the remains of wealthy homes of priestly families destroyed when the Romans destroyed Jerusalem at the end of the Great Revolt in 70 C.E. Of course, you will want to see theWestern Wall and TempleWestern Wall and Temple
Mount
Mount
(which Muslims callal-Haram al-Sharif al-Haram al-Sharif
, the “Noble Sanctuary”), pictured at right. The hours for non-Muslim touriststo visit Temple Mount/Haram al-Sharif vary at this writing, but are generally 9:00-11:00 a.m. and some hours in the early afternoon as well. It is not open to non-Muslims on Fridays, the Muslim prayer day, or on Shabbat. The
Dome of the Rock Dome of the Rock
shrine atop Temple Mount is the most beautiful thing made by human hands I have ever seen. When you go onto Temple Mount, you will have to pass strict Israeli security, but remember that the Muslim religious trust (the Waqf) has jurisdiction on the Mount itself. Unfortunately, as of this writing, non-Muslims are not permitted inside either theDome of the Rock Dome of the Rock
orAl-Aqsa Mosque Al-Aqsa Mosque
, and I have no idea if this ban will ever be lifted. The closure stems from the conflicts of 2000; it is purely political and very unfortunate, and recent claims that the Israelis are trying to change the “status quo” at the site have made tensions even worse. It’s a tense place and conditions can change day to day.There is one, possible way to get into Al-Aqsa and the Dome of the Rock.
Sam SalemSam Salem
, who worked for years at the UN headquarters for Middle East operations in Jerusalem, now leads tour groups, and through his connections, he can takecan take occasionally small groups of non-Muslim visitors along with occasionally small groups of non-Muslim visitors along with VIP tours into the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque. VIP tours into the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque. Such visits are limited to once or twice a month and are never guaranteed, but tell him you found him through my guide, and he may be able to do this for you—no promises! Remember that the Waqf (Islamic Trust) that controls Temple Mount may cancel access to those holy sites at any time without notice, even if Sam had prior approval for a tour, and that is a risk any visitor has to assume. You can reach Sam at (054) 482-8207 or atYou can reach Sam at (054) 482-8207 or at [email protected][email protected].. Note: Note: Inside these sites, oneone cannot pray or engage in any act of pray or engage in any act of non-Muslim worship or devotion
non-Muslim worship or devotion —to do so will create a major incident and perhaps jeopardize Sam’s access permanently. Sam also offers tours of the Old City of Jerusalem, Jericho, Bethlehem, Herodian, and Hebron. I have used Sam to tour Temple Mount, including the insides of the Muslim shrines (see the photo above from inside the Dome of the Rock!), as well as Bethlehem and Hebron. Plus Sam is about the sweetest, kindest man you can imagine. Full disclosure: Sam is not licensed as a guide in Israel. While this is a matter of controversy on the
Trip Advisor forum, I have decided that this is irrelevant to me when it comes to touring sites outside the Green Line (pre-1967 Israel), though I don’t use him within Israel proper. I find Sam delightful to tour with, and have received nothing but positive comments from others who have used him. You can obviously decide for yourself as an adult. Some on Trip Advisor have questioned whether he has liability insurance when driving paying passengers; Sam insists he is insured to transport passengers, and I trust him. You can ask yourself if concerned.
Remember that the Temple Mount/al-Haram al-Sharif is holy to more people than any other place on Earth, and it is very contentious. It is a tense place, but if it is not safe to go up, the security authorities won’t allow you to go. This small hilltop is charged with religious emotion, history, and political struggles. But don’t miss it.