CADENA DE VALOR

a. Mechanical recycling

The product B is mainly composed of glass so it ends in a different bin, specialized for glass items. After being collected, the first step is the maturation. This passive cleaning allows to eliminate organic part in the open air. Then a manual sorting permits to sort all big elements different from glass material; it can be cardboard or plastic products that where sorted in the wrong bin. Magnetic metallic elements are then expelled thanks to a magnet and eddy current. The next step is the shredding, as for plastic the product are ground up and the glass is transformed into cullet of various sizes. The screening sorts cullet by size, from 10 to 15mm, calibrated at the request of glassmakers. Light elements such as plastic are then ejected during the blasting stage.

Finally, the optical sorting is the crucial step, with three roles. The laser detects the opacity of materials in order to identify and eject infusible materials, such as ceramics that have a melting temperature higher than the one of the glass. Those infusible materials can degrade the quality of the recycled glass since they do not melt. Thus, if the surface is reflective or if the cullet is opaque, the laser does not detect the glass. The laser also sorts colorless cullet from colored one, depending on the glassmaker wish. Finally, it conducts a separation by nature of glass, keeping only soda-lime glass. All other glass types are ejected.

Fig 16 Sorting steps of glass packaging

Cullet are finally sent to the glassmaker. After another maturation and fusion at 1550°C, new items are made.

Disruptors for glass recycling are summarized in the table below:

Step Disruptors

Manual sorting Undesirable materials other than glass

Metals sorting Non-magnetic metals

Optical sorting Non-sodalime glass

Opaque or reflective surfaces

Table 10 Disruptors for glass sorting

Thus, for cosmetic products the main constraint is the opacity of the glass. However, if the initial product is free from disruptors, the glass can be infinitely recycled.

b. Glass majority flowchart

The translation of the disruptors identified into a recycling flowchart is presented by Fig 17.

Fig 17 Recyclability flowchart for glass packaging

c. Product B recyclability evaluation

As for product A, the assessment of product B is realized using the flowchart of glass majority packaging, step by step. the recycling of glass packaging is its opacity. In our case, the glass is not fully opaque, but it is not translucent either.

In this case, the product should be sent to a recycling center to test its detectability by the laser. It is assumed those parts do not disrupt the glass recyclability, so they correspond to the “Others” tag.

To establish the final recyclability percentage of the product, the amount of “others” parts is calculated. the total weight of the product. The

final product is then calculated with 100-15.6=84.4. The recyclability of

product B is 84.4%.

Conclusion

Many factors encourage companies to contribute to sustainable development and to reduce their negative impacts on their products and activities. The luxury sector is not exempted. It should be proactive and exemplary to propose impeccable and sustainable products, desirable for its consumers. Special attention is given to packaging, often associated with waste and sometimes with toxicity. Yet, they play an essential role to assure the sales, protection and ease to use. better integrate eco-design, more alternatives should be found, without changing the product quality. Furthermore, eco-design should be thought from the beginning, when the marketing proposes a project, and we need to communicate more on the environment to heighten customer awareness.

Then, a big part of my work was to understand the functioning of sorting and recycling facilities for both plastic and glass packaging. This abled to give a list of recycling disruptors; for cosmetic packaging the main disruptors are the shiny surfaces that are not was inspired by the French recycling company CITEO and the Ellen MacArthur commitment. Thus, it is not a universal tool. Over the years and depending on the country,

References

[7] United Nations, Child Labour, Sustainable Development Goals, 2015, www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/blog/tag/child-labour/

[8] UNEP, Program for the environment, www.unep.ch/scoe/documents/fr_CSO.pdf

[9] European Commission, A renewed EU strategy 2011-14 for Corporate Social Responsibility, 2011 [10] A. Carroll, The pyramid of corporate social responsibility: Towards the moral management of organizational stakeholders, Business Horizons, 1991, 34, 39-48.

[11] A.P. Duarte, Corporate social responsibility from an employees’ perspective: Contributes for understanding job attitudes, ISCTE-Instituto Universitário de Lisboa, 2011

[12] H. Tacker, What is the importance of CSR? , The CSR journal, 2019

[13] J. Oakes, Sustainable Luxury: Millennials Buy Into Socially Conscious Brands, Luxe Digital, 2020 [14] L’Oréal progress report, Sharing Beauty With All: L’Oréal’s commitment to sustainability, 2018 [15] United Nations, Sustainable Development Goals, 2015

[16] Armani, Acqua for Life Giorgio Armani, 2019, www.giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com/landing-pages/acqua-for-life/

[17] l’Oréal, Plastic Packaging Policy, www.loreal.com/en/articles/sharing-beauty-with-all/plastic-packaging-policy/

[18] Foundation EllenMacArthur, Ellen MacArthur,www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/our-story/the-team/ceo-trustees/ellen-macarthur

[24] J. Bendell, J., & 1A. Kleanthous, Deeper luxury : Quality and style when the world matters, World Wildlife Fund - WWF, UK Report, 2007

[25] A. Sahota, Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up, 2013

[26] J. Kapferer, A. Michaut, Is luxury compatible with sustainability? Luxury consumers’ viewpoint, Journal of Brand Management, 2014

[27] J. Kapferer, A. Michaut, Luxury and sustainability: a common future? The match depends on how consumers define luxury, 2010

[29] N. Gilet, C. Brown, J. Ortega, Reinventing Luxury: Sustainability as a Way Forward, WWD, 2019 [30] Journal du Luxe, La Division Luxe de L’Oréal s’envole, 2019

[31] Kering, Sustainability, www.kering.com/en/sustainability/

[32] N. Loeser, A Brief History of Packaging, Structural Graphics Blog, 2015, www.structuralgraphics.com/blog/a-brief-history-of-packaging/

[33] Dr. K. R. Subramanian, Impact of Packaging in Self Service Marketing, International journal of scientific progress and research, 2017

[34] Benjamin, The 3 Levels of Packaging, the Packaging Company, 2018, www.thepackagingcompany.us/knowledge-sharing/3-levels-of-packaging/

[35] Picture from Sam Parfum shop website., www.samparfums.es/gb/fragancias-femeninas/giorgio-armani-si-passione-edp-00ml-97573.html

[36] Picture from AllPack Direct, Corrugated cartons single wall, www.allpack.co.uk/cartons.htm [37] S. Chand, 5 Basic Functions of Packaging in Marketing a Product, YourArticleLibrary

[38] Centre National d’Information Indépendante sur les Déchets, Réduire les déchets d’emballages : pourquoi et comment ?, www.cniid.org/Reduire-les-dechets-d-emballages-pourquoi-et,321

[45] CO website, How Sustainable Is Paper And Cardboard Packaging?, 2020, www.commonobjective.co/article/how-sustainable-is-paper-and-cardboard-packaging

[53] Mugler website, Mugler Fountain, www.inter.mugler.com/fragrance/the-mugler-fountain/

[54] Verescence, Shared perspectives on eco-design between Verescence & Guerlain, 2019 [55] Kiehl’s website, Made-better, url: https://www.kiehls.com/made-better#

[56] European Parliament and Council, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on the cosmetics, Official Journal of the European Union, 2009

[57] European Parliament and Council, DIRECTIVE 94/62/EC of 20 December 1994 on packaging and packaging waste, Official Journal of the European Union, 1994

[58] European Parliament and Council, Directive (EU) 2018/852 of 30 May 2018 amending Directive 94/62/EC on packaging and packaging waste, Official Journal of the European Union, 2018

[59] European Chemical Agency, About the REACH Regulation, 2011

[60] Commission of the European communities, Environmental issues of PVC, 2000

[61] L’Oréal website, 100% responsible packaging is possible!, www.loreal-finance.com/en/annual-report-2017/operations/environment-responsible-packaging

[62] Comission of the European communities, COMMISSION DIRECTIVE 2002/72/EC relating to plastic materials and articles intended to come into contact with foodstuffs, 2002

[63] L’Oréal website, Achieving “zero Deforestation”, www.loreal.com/en/articles/sharing-beauty-with-all/achieving-zero-deforestation/

[64] Natura-Sciences, FSC & PEFC: pour des forêts durables, 2014

[65] Sustainability Guide, Ecodesign, www.sustainabilityguide.eu/ecodesign/

[66] European Parliament and Council, DIRECTIVE 2009/125/EC establishing a framework for the setting of ecodesign requirements for energy-related products, Official Journal of the European Union, 2009 [67] ENEC, Envisioning Ecodesign, 2015

[68] Pôle Ecoconception, Ecodesign, 2016, www.eco-conception.fr/

[69] Cambridge dictionary online, definition of greenwashing, www.dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/greenwashing

[70] ISO, ISO 14020:2000 Environmental labels and declarations, 2000 [71] L’Oréal internal document, Environmental Packaging guide, 2017

[72] L’Oréal website, A New Tool To Assess The Environmental And Social Impact Of Our Products, www.loreal.com/en/articles/sharing-beauty-with-all/a-new-tool-to-assess-the-environmental-and-social-impact-of-our-products/

[73] CITEO, Recyclabilité des emballages de la beauté, 2019