Cellar operations start when fermentation is complete and continues until the wine is released. Cellar operations include clarification, stabilization, bulk aging, etc.
Hot and Cold Stabilization
All white and blush wines should be both hot and cold stabilized before bottling. Many winemakers use the following technique to accomplish both stabilization steps in a single operation. Three teaspoons of dry bentonite in a cup of hot water are used for 5 gallons of wine. The water is placed in the blender, and the blender is run at high speed while the bentonite is added slowly. The bentonite mixture is chilled in a refrigerator for 24 hours, and then the mixture is stirred into the wine. After the bentonite addition, the wine is placed in a refrigerator, and the temperature control is set to the coldest position. After a couple of weeks in the refrigerator, the cold wine is racked into a clean container. Bubbling and splashing should be minimized because cold wine oxidizes easily.
Gelatin
Gelatins are useful for fining astringent red wines, and a suitable gelatin can be found in the canning section of most grocery stores. “Knox” gelatin comes in a box containing four handy, pre measured envelopes. Be sure to buy an un-flavored gelatin.
Power Stirring Tool
barrel or small tank of wine is not so easy, and a special stirring tool can be very helpful. A variety of stirring tools can be purchased, or a propeller type stirrer can be made easily. First, form a small propeller by cutting and bending a piece of stainless steel sheet. Drill a hole in the center of the propeller blade and bolt the blade to a 36-inch length of 1/4-inch stainless-steel rod. Secure the propeller with two stainless steel nuts and washers. A barrel of wine or a small tank can be quickly mixed with the homemade stirrer and a small electric drill.
Oak Chips
Many home winemakers add oak chips to red wines stored in glass, plastic or stainless containers. About 2 oz of oak chips for every 10 gallons of wine is a good starting quantity. The chips can be placed in a nylon bag and suspended in the wine, or the chips can be added directly to the container. After the chips are added, the wine should be tasted twice a month to make sure the wine does not get too “oakey.” When the wine has the desired oak character, remove the bag of chips, or rack the wine off the loose chips into a clean container. If more oak character is wanted, additional chips can be added anytime.
Wine Filter
Inexpensive but effective wine filters can be made from standard, 10-inch cartridge type water filters. These filters are available at hardware stores, and a variety of cartridges are manufactured to fit these standard housings. Five-micron water filter cartridges are available at hardware stores. These cartridges are inexpensive, and they are useful for rough filtering large quantities of wine. However, a 5-micron cartridge is quite porous and will not completely clarify dirty wine. One-micron cartridges are used for general clarification, and many home winemakers use cartridges with 0.5 or 0.2 micron ratings for filtering wine at bottling time.
Wine Filter Use
All filter media should be washed before any wine is filtered. First, completely assemble the filter system, and then flush the system with several gallons of clean water. The water coming out of the filter should be tasted to make sure no “paper” taste remains. If the rinse water tastes clean, the filter is drained and used. Washing is continued if the water has a paper taste. Some winemakers prefer to wash the complete filter system with a 1- percent citric acid solution. The citric acid seems to remove the paper taste quickly, and the acid helps sterilize the filter. After the acid solution is removed, the filter system is washed with clean water. A short length of plastic tubing permanently attached to a hose connector is handy for flushing small filters.
Storing Used Filter Cartridges
Used filter cartridges are difficult to maintain, but the following method works well. Immediately after use, the filter should be back flushed with several gallons of clean water. Then the water is drained, and the housing is filled with a 50% ethyl alcohol solution (inexpensive 100 proof Vodka). The inlet and outlet of the housing should be tightly sealed with small rubber stoppers, and the filter should be stored in a cool, dry place. When the filter is needed, drain the alcohol, and flush the housing with clean water. Set the alcohol aside, so it can be reused later.
Bottling is the last major step in the winemaking process. Lots of things can go wrong, so bottling is a difficult operation for many home winemakers. Ways of avoiding several common bottling problems are discussed below.
Bottling Supplies
In 1997, sealed bags of one thousand, number one quality, wine corks sold for about $135. The cost of new glass ranged from $4.50 to $6.50 per case, and re-sterilized glass sold for $3.50 to $4.50 a case. A carton of 4800 fancy, heat-shrink capsules sold for $130.
Handling Bottles
Plastic milk crates are a convenient way of handling wine bottles. Plastic crates are handy containers for washing used bottles and for filling bottles. These crates are strong enough to hold full bottles easily. Milk crates are easy to keep clean, and they are always handy to have in any home winery. Standard size, plastic milk crates hold about 20 bottles.
Softening Corks
Soaking in cold water for a few hours will softened hard corks. After soaking, poured off the water, and cover the container of corks with a clean rag. Let the corks drain overnight to remove excess cork water. Excessive cork water is undesirable because stains the top of the corks and makes a mess.
Old corks can be softened quickly in a microwave oven. Rinse the corks in cold water, and then seal the wet corks in a plastic freezer bag. Heat the bag of corks in a microwave oven for a short time. A bag containing 50 corks might require a one minute exposure at a 50 percent power setting. However, the time depends on the microwave oven, and some experimentation may be needed. Corks burn easily, so always use the minimum power and time necessary. The intense microwave energy may also be effective in sterilizing the corks. Please note this technique should not be used with corks treated with paraffin.
Bottle Filling
Always avoid oxidation by not splashing or bubbling the wine when filling bottles. Small pressure heads reduce bubbling, so the wine container should be just two or three feet higher than the bottles. Bottles should be filled from the bottom slowly until no more than 1/4-inch gap remains between the wine and the bottom of the cork. The small pressure head increases time needed to fill the bottles. However, filling time can be reduced significantly by using a large, (1/2 inch diameter) wand type bottle filler.
Making Labels
Inexpensive labels can be made easily with a home computer. A variety of artwork can be included, and professional quality labels can be produced easily if a scanner and color printer are available. Most lightweight papers wrinkle badly when the glue is applied, but many medium weight bond papers are suitable for labels. Four, six or eight labels should be made from standard 8.5 X 11
inch sheets of paper, and very little paper will be wasted if the layout is done carefully.
Label Paster
Small wineries use a label-pasting machine when small lots are labeled by hand. These handy machines quickly apply just the right amount of glue to the back surface of any label. Unfortunately, these little machines sell for several hundred dollars, and most home winemakers do not produce enough wine to justify the cost.
Gluing Labels by Hand
White "Elmers" glue is often a satisfactory adhesive for applying labels printed on heavy weight paper. Use a wide, short bristled brush to apply glue to the back of the labels. A piece of stiff cardboard smaller than the label makes pasting easier. The label is placed face down on the cardboard, and then the glue is applied with the brush. A “glue stick” is a very convenient adhesive when only a few bottles are being labeled.
SUMMARY
Some winemaking procedures are done only once each year, so several crush seasons are needed for novice winemakers to develop certain skills. Beginning winemakers can learn basic winemaking techniques and get many useful ideas by visiting other home winemakers or small commercial wineries, and visiting other winemakers is always an enjoyable way to gain practical information quickly.