Cuantificación de Ertapenem en Muestras Reales

ALL-GRAIN

From simplest recipe to myriad outcomes, flexible parti-gyle style.

TOTAL BATCH SIZE

gallons/37.8 liters (two worts of 5 gallons/18.9 liters each)

MALT/GRAIN BILL

24 lb (10.9 kg) Maris Otter malt

HOPS SCHEDULE

3.5 oz (99 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the first boil 1.3 oz (37 g) East Kent Goldings (5% AA) at 45 minutes on the second boil

DIRECTIONS

Mash at 152°F (67°C) for 60 minutes. Draw 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) of first runnings - tional 5.5 gallons (20.8 liters) for the second wort. Optionally, continue to sparge additional third runnings that can be used for blending.

Boil the second wort (for 90 minutes) as soon as feasible. This is where the extra brewing equipment comes in handy. Many of us must boil and chill the first wort, then set it aside until we’re ready to blend.

First wort after 90-minute boil Estimated OG: 1.090

46

Second wort after 90-minute boil Estimated OG: 1.045

25

After chilling, blend the two worts to make at least three different beers—and with many more potential variations.

▪ For the strongest beer, blend 3 gallons (11.3 liters) of the first wort and 1 gallon -

ed 41 IBUs. This becomes your .

▪ For the second beer, blend 1 gallon (3.8 liters) of each wort to get 2 gallons (7.6 liters) of OG 1.067 wort at an estimated 35 IBUs. This becomes your strong ale or

.

▪ For the third beer, blend the remaining 4 gallons (15.1 liters) to get a wort of OG 1.056 at an estimated 30 IBUs. Even as the weakest of the three, it’s still strong enough to be a traditional .

VARIATIONS

- cide whether they want to dry hop any or all of these beers— in primary, secondary, or keg (or cask, even better). But any combination of yeasts and fermentation can be used, with or without extra hops, to create a wider variety of beers. Belgian yeast, lager yeast, - myces—there is room to play. The simplicity of this single-malt, single-hops recipe—meant as a starting point—also makes it easy to go even further by subbing in different grain bills or hops varieties.

Right » Casks on display

in the old Fuller’s brewhouse.

Below » Fuller’s Head

Brewer, John Keeling, with humming grain mills in action on the floor above the current mash tuns.

Keeling refers to parti-gyling as a “particularly Victorian way of making beer.” What does that mean exactly? In this context, it means “practical and industrial.” The Victorians inherited early industrial techniques—then they improved them. The cost of malt was high relative to wages. Meanwhile pubs and drinkers

- erence or occasion. Parti-gyle was not a trick in that environment; it was common practice that had improved over time.

- ing extra on malt—we know our hobby costs money; we are not in it for profit. Free time for additional boiling and chilling, on the other hand, can be hard to come by. And for those of us using gas burners, propane isn’t cheap either.

- niques, are motivated to produce greater variety, have extra free time and/or additional vessels (which can help trim the extra time needed), have a fetishistic love of arithmetic, and/or are usually sober toward the end of the brew day, parti-gyling may be just the technique for you.

For my part, I have parti-gyled a couple of times (really!). The beers turned out nicely, thanks, but if I’m honest with myself— and I am nothing if not honest

No Math?

This is for extra credit then. Parti-gyling is less intimidating if you are not fussy about target gravity, but I know some of you want to predict everything on paper and then nail it on brew day. You have my admiration, because I am the type to predict everything on paper then completely miss it on brew day, taking notes to record it with the hilarious notion of repeating it in the future.

We’ll go with Keeling’s example of two worts of 1.080 and 1.020, respectively. With those worts you’d like to make three beers of varying strengths—let’s say an IPA at 1.070, a mid-range pale ale at 1.050, and a saison of 1.040.

How do you make that happen? This is where the math comes in. The simplest way to do the math is 80 and 20—in per gallon terms. Let’s assume you draw 5 gallons of each wort, so your total points are 400

and 100 respectively (80 × 5 = 400;

20 × 5 = 100).

Are you with me so far? To get 2 gallons of 1.070 wort (for the IPA), we want 70 points per gallon or 140 points. The way to get there is to blend 1⅔ gallons of the stronger wort with ⅓ gallon of the weaker one. Okay, I’ll show my work:

1⅔ × 80 = 133⅓ and ⅓ × 20 = 6⅔

133⅓ + 6⅔ = 140

140 ÷ 2 = 70

You get the idea. The next one is easy. When you take 2 gallons from each wort you get a neat 200 points, divided by 4 gallons to make a tidy 1.050. There’s your pale ale.

That leaves 4 gallons—1⅓ gallons of strong stuff to blend with 2⅔ gallons of lighter stuff. You end up with 4 gallons worth 160 points, and there’s your 1.040 wort for your saison.

That’s an illustration. It’s not necessary to nail your 1.080 and 1.020 gravities in the first place, as long you’re ready to do some math with what you have. Also be aware

that these are post-boil gravities, as

the boil will concentrate the strength somewhat.

There are other ways to be flexible: For example, hit your targets on two of your beers but take whatever you get on the third; or, hit all three of your targets without using all of your wort, saving the rest for a yeast

Top » Keeling pages

through Fuller’s historic brewing logs. Freshly filled Fuller’s casks roll through the production line.

Find yourself with a yeast bomb or an astringent, grainy - sirable in beer; however they can be nice flavor complements to beer bread, biscuits, and other beery baked goods.

Here’s a biscuit recipe passed down from my mother that I’ve adapted as beer bread, which tends to take on the flavor profile of the beer style used. For sweeter, darker breads, use porters, stouts, or other dark ales. For drier, more savory breads try pale ale, IPA, or pilsner.

THE FIX FOR THE NEXT HOMEBREW

If the beer was too yeasty, use a clean, healthy yeast strain and - tles out. If the beer was too husky, be sure to properly crush all of your grain (if you’re doing so yourself) so that it can all be extracted during sparging. Additionally, cold conditioning the beer can help its graininess to settle out with the yeast.