Definiciones exclusivas para los Valores referenciados a Renta Variable

Laser cutting and engraving offers exclusivity to small-scale designers, which would be impossible if buying stock fabrics. Fabrics can be cut or engraved to very intricate designs with the guarantee of a precise copy of the shape or design, as often as required. Most fabrics can be laser cut. The high temperature of the laser beam seals as it cuts, thus eliminating fraying, design work can be achieved on rolls of fabric and individual panels, and there is no limit to the complexity of cutting or engraving that can be achieved.

Original devoré design on a silk velvet fabric by Hayley Cheal.

(above) Double-layer laser-cut dress by Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. Laser cutting allows designers to create lightweight positive and negative decorative effects with a range of fabrics. The process also tends to “seal” the laser-cut edges, particularly with some synthetic fabrics, negating the need for embroidery to finish edges.

(above) Structured digitally printed dress by innovative London-based designer Mary Katrantzou. A complex series of digital prints in one garment creates arresting visual effects and emphasizes different parts of the body. (right) This Dragonfly dress from the “Mimesis” collection by Polish designer Kamila Gawro´nska- Kasperska showcases the precision of digital printing. The delicate dragonfly wing motif is digitally printed onto silk organza. The lower part of the dress is constructed from more than 100 pieces of printed cut-edge fabric.

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Embroidery

Embroidery is a form of surface decoration made using threads and yarns in various stitches and combinations of stitches. The process may also include the addition of beads and sequins, as well as other applied decorative trimmings.

There are many roots to the origins of embroidery, and similarly many differing styles reflecting various cultures and geographic regions.

Embroidery is classified depending on its under-fabric, or according to the relationship of the stitches’ placement to the fabric. Further divisions indicate whether the stitching is on top of the fabric or through it.

Freehand embroidery

The designs are applied without regard for the weave structure of the base fabric; it is also a form of surface embroidery. Crewel-work and traditional Chinese embroidery are two examples of freehand embroidery.

(above) Thickly worked wool yarn embroidery applied on wool crêpe creates a customized textile in this dress by Ashish. The dress features a shaped bodice top and full skirt reinforced with a silk tulle underskirt.

(right) Emerald green folklore- inspired jacket by Colette Vermeulen. The highly textured fabric is constructed using a large- scale jacquard technique, and is woven from mohair and rayon raffia skeins. The embroidery is applied to the jacquard after weaving, and is executed by hand using ripped strips of pre-washed silk.

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Surface decoration

Counted-thread embroidery

The warp and weft threads of the base fabric are precounted by the embroiderer before inserting the needle and embroidering thread. Designs tend to be symmetrical. Needlepoint embroidery and cross-stitch are two examples of this style of embroidery. Canvas work

Threads are stitched through canvas to create a dense pattern and completely cover the under-fabric. Canvas work requires the use of an embroidery hoop or frame to stretch the fabric. Needlepoint, petit point, and bergello are examples of canvas work.

Smocking

Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric, developed in England in the Middle Ages. The gathered fabric is held in place with decorative stitch work. It derived its name from the tunic or smock worn by the farm laborers who favored this technique. Before the use of elastic, smocking was used for cuffs and necklines in place of buttons, and gave the garment a degree of stretch.

(above) Embroidered brocade coat by Josep Font. The encrusted “freefall” sprinkle of beads and sequins highlights the collar and shoulder area.

(left) Fine gray wool tunic by Carta e Costura showcasing a modern interpretation of the craft of smocking. The fabric is contoured and molded to the body by graduated elastic shirring, which causes tiny gathers and bubbles in the fabric and lends it great stretch. Up-cycled dress composed of

reclaimed Indian cotton crochet lace encrusted with beaded embroidery on a nylon–Lycra blend base by Rachael Cassar.The designer’s aim is to produce one-off pieces that comprise 90 percent recycled materials and to challenge the preconception that luxury and sustainability are mutually exclusive.

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Machine embroidery

Embroidery designs can be stitched with automated machines. Today logo badges on T-shirts, sweatshirts, and polo shirts make the greatest use of machine embroidery.

Appliqué

This needlework technique uses pieces of fabric stitched or embroidered onto a base cloth to create a design. The technique is French in origin but extensively used in North America for traditional quilts. West Africa and parts of India and Pakistan are also famous for appliqué quilting.

Quilting

The technique of stitching through two or more layers of fabric with a layer of batting in between to produce an insulative and decorative three-dimensional effect.

(above) Nude organza dress with hand-stitched raw-edged appliqués, cut from woven silk-striped fabric. From Vivienne Westwood’s Spring/Summer 2009 “Do it Yourself” collection. (right) Pewter dress by French-born designer Julien David, who trained in New York and is now based in Tokyo. Made from a silk and polyester circular metallic voile, the garment’s sculptured, bell-shaped silhouette is supported by batting inside the quilted fabric.

(above) Fine worsted wool suit by Ichiro Suzuki. The London College of Fashion and Royal College of Art graduate plays with the optical graphic effects of the traditional pinstripe and subverts the expectations of classic tailoring by creating three-dimensional stiffened patchwork structures across the shoulders.

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