Descripción de los escenarios

MIDRANGE

Tea Tree & Co (Map pp102-3 ; %542 9954, fax 512 9959;

Garosu-gil; r from W70,000; bLine 3 to Sinsa, Exit 7; ai) Right on fashionable Garosu-gil, this sparkling new upmarket motel doesn’t need to offer food with so many good places to eat nearby. Rooms are decorated all in white with stylish big bathrooms; ask for the terrace rooms with outdoor jacuzzi bath.

Princess Hotel (프린세스호텔; Map pp102-3 ;

%544 0366; Apgujeong; r/ste W80,000/120,000; bLine 3 to Apgujeong, Exit 2; ai) If you need to be close to Apgujeong’s shopping action this love motel with a headily scented lobby is a pos- sibility. Suite options include a spiffy hot-pink number with circular bed.

Jelly Hotel (젤리호텔; Map pp102-3 ; %553 4737;

www.jellyhotel.com; Gangnam; r from W90,000; bLine 2 to Gangnam, Exit 8; ai) The more expensive rooms of this upscale love motel are spacious, exotic and classy. Every room is different – check them out on the lobby screen – the most spectacular (and expensive) has a full-size pool table and a heart-shaped spa!

Dormy In Seoul (도미인서울; Map pp102-3 ;

%6474 1515; www.dormy.co.kr; Gangnam; studio from W110,000; bLine 2 to Gangnam, Exit 7; ai) These light, modern studio apartments have all the conveniences of home. Toilets are cramped but there is a walk-in shower. Don’t expect any thing special and you won’t be disap- pointed. The price is reasonable and includes a buffet breakfast and internet access.

Hotel Popgreen (Map pp102-3 ; %544 6623; www.pop

greenhotel.com; Apgujeong; r/ste W110,440/177,600; bLine 3 to Apgujeong, Exit 2; ai) Light, modern and reasonably sized rooms and bathrooms are on offer, with touches of style here and there. Rooms vary so check out more than one – suites are just bigger rooms. Rates include breakfast in their pleasant cafe.

Hotel Blue Pearl (블루펄호텔; Map pp90-1 ;

%3015 7777; Jamsil; d & ondol W130,000, tw W180,000; bLine 7 to Cheongdam, Exit 14) There’s a modern Zen-like simplicity to this hotel, contrasting sharply with the raging traffic outside. A cor- ner room like Room 601 has great views, but rooms on the other side away from the road are quieter. Rooms sport computers.

TOP END

oPark Hyatt Seoul (Map pp90-1 ; %2016 1234;

www.seoul.park.hyatt.com; Daechi 3-dong, Gangnam-gu; r/ste from W300,000/450,000; bLine 2 to Samseong, Exit 1;

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ais) A discreet entrance – look for the rock sticking out of the wall – sets the Zen minimalist tone for this gorgeous property. Each floor only has 10 rooms with spot-lit an- tiquities lining the hallways. Spacious rooms ingeniously combine the high tech with the traditional, and come with luxurious bath- rooms that have quite rightly been classed among the best in Asia.

Imperial Palace Hotel (임페리얼팰리스호

텔; Map pp102-3 ; %3440 8000; www.imperialpalace.co.kr; Eonjuro, Gangnam; r from W330,000; bLine 7 to Hak-dong, Exit 1; ais) Opulence and no-expense- spared are the twin themes at this luxurious hotel. The antiques and wood panelling create a stately, genuinely European ambience, from the magnificent lobby to the well-appointed rooms and immaculate spa.

Also recommended:

Lotte World Hotel (롯데월드호텔; Map pp90-1 ;

%419 7000; www.lottehotelworld.com; Jamsil; r/ste from W375,000/432,000; bLine 2 or 8 to Jamsil, Exit 4; acis) Book ahead for a room on one of the two fun floors decorated with Lotte World’s colourful cartoon characters as well as PlayStations.

Ritz Carlton (리츠칼튼호텔; Map pp102-3 ;

%3451 8000; www.ritzcarltonseoul.com; Gangnam; r/ste from W385,000/451,000; bLine 9 to Sinnonhyeon, Exit 4; ais) A gracious note is struck immediately by the violist and soprano providing recitals in the lobby of this top-class hotel.

EATING

Dining out is one of the great pleasures of Seoul with literally tens of thousands of op- tions, from cheap street stalls proffering deep fried snacks and tteokbokki (thick bullets of pressed rice cake in a spicy red sauce with tons of other ingredients) to fancy restaurants serving royal Korean cuisine and seafood so fresh it’s still wriggling on the plate.

The following picks only skim the surface of what’s on offer. Seoul’s many food blogs, such as www.seouleats.com and www.zenkimchi. com, provide additional reasons to salivate. Also note that some cafes ( p136 ) and bars ( p137 ) are good places to dine.

Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

oGwangjang Market (관장시장; Map pp96- 7 ; meals R4000-7000; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat; bLine 1 to Jongno 5-ga, Exit 7) Also spelled ‘Kwangjang’, this market feels like it’s been frozen in time: everything is still traditional and unmodern- ised. At its heart is Seoul’s largest food alley

(or meokjagolmok), with some 200 stalls spe- cialising in dishes such as crispy, thick nokdu

bindaetteok (mung-bean pancake; W4000)

that are big enough to be shared by two. Pair them up with healthy bowls of bibimbap or

boribap (mixed rice and barley topped with

a selection of vegies).

Jongno Bindaeddeok (종로빈대떡; Map pp96-7 ;

%737 1857; meals W5,000-14,000; hnoon-2am; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 1) A sterling example of a dumpy-looking restaurant that serves great food. Most people come for the bindaetteok with beef (고기빈대떡) or seafood (해물빈 대떡). The sogogigukbap (소고기국밥; spicy beef soup) is also delicious. Turn right out of the exit, walk straight and turn left at the first street.

Namaste (나마스테; Map pp96-7 ; %2198 3301;

www.namasterestaurant.co.kr; World Food Court, basement Jongno Tower; meals W6,000-20,000; h11am-10pm; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 3) This genuine Indian- Nepalese restaurant tempts downtown office workers with its large menu of thalis, lassis, naan breads and all the usual Indian favourites like tandoori and masala tea. Lunch times, with W10,000 thalis on offer, can be hectic. The original branch is a subway stop east of Dongdaemun (Map pp94–5 ; %2232 2286; 2nd fl Kumkang Bldg; Sungin-dong; bLine 1 & 6 to Dongmyo, Exit 1).

Tosok-maeul (토속 마을; Map pp96-7 ; meals

W7000-10,000; h24hr; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 3) Super spicy gamjatang (a soup of beef bones and potato) is served up in this rustic diner that also specialises in sundae (blood sau- sage). The uncompromising side dishes are salty-and-fishy-as-hell shrimps, radish and cabbage kimchi, raw onions and raw chillies. Thankfully the rice is plain, and there are plenty of paper tissues to deal with runny noses and sweaty brows.

Yukmi (육미; Map pp96-7 ; %738 0122; meals W8000-

10,000; h24hr; bLine 1 to Jonggak, Exit 3) Classic no- frills seafood-and-alcohol joint. Expect it to be full of smoking salarymen, talking loudly. Order the hoideopbap (회덮밥; chunks of tuna and roe on rice; W4500) and Samjigui (삼지 구이; baked mackerel) and enjoy with draught beer, soju (local vodka) or rice wine.

Wood & Brick (Map pp96-7 ; %735 1157; www.wood

nbrick.com; meals W8000-20,000; h8am-10pm; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 7) If you’re tired of Korean, this Italian restaurant, wine bar and gourmet deli and bakery will fill the spot nicely. Their sandwiches and baked goods are excellent

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S E O U L • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

and they also do pretty good pizza and pasta. There’s another branch in Bukchon (%747 1592; open 10.30am to 3pm, and 6pm to 10pm; bLine 3 to Anguk, Exit 2).

Café Sobahn (카패소반; Map pp96-7 ; %730 7423;

www.sobahn.co.kr; meals W10,000-15,000; h8am-10pm; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 6) Check out the mini greenhouse where this slick operation grows its own multicoloured sprouts, one of several great toppings for their contem- porary takes on bibimbap. They also do a variety of juk (rice porridge) dishes for break- fast. Presentation is great and service super friendly.

Tosokchon Samgyetang (토속촌 삼계탕; Map

pp96-7 ;%737 7444; meals W13,000-19,000; h10am- 10pm; bLine 3 to Gyeongbokgung, Exit 2) This 30-year- old icon is housed in a sprawling hanok, and for many locals – and even ex-presidents who order take-out – it’s the best in Seoul. Despite the crowds, the samgyetang (chicken stewed with ginseng) arrives fast and still bubbling. Tip some salt and pepper together into a small saucer and use it as a dip. From the subway station’s Exit 2, walk straight for 100m, turn left at the GS25 convenience store and it’s on your left.

Nanxiang (Map pp96-7 ; %3789 0874; www.nan

xiang.co.kr; B2 fl, Seoul Finance Center; meals W20,000-30,000; h11am-11pm; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 5) One of the better choices among the many res- taurants and cafes that are clustered beneath the Seoul Finance Center. Heavenly Chinese dumplings are Nanxiang’s forte – you can see them being freshly made in the open kitchen.

Hanmiri (한미리; Map pp96-7 ; %757 5707;

www.hanmiri.co.kr; lunch/dinner from W25,000/50,000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-10pm; bLine 5 to Gwanghwamun, Exit 5) Try a modern take on royal cuisine at this elegant contemporary-styled restaurant with windows overlooking the Cheong-gye- cheon. It’s unique, gourmet and foreigner- friendly. There’s a second branch in Gangnam (Map pp102–3 ; %569 7165; 2nd fl, Human Starville, Nonhyeonno; bLine 2 to Yeoksam, Exit 6).

Bukchon, Insa-dong &