2. REVISIÓN DEL ESTADO DEL ARTE
2.2. CONTROL DEL RITMO CARDÍACO
2.3.3.1. Diagrama de Poincaré
The mascaras on the market today are made with chemicals and preservatives that contain formaldehyde or parabens. We pay a high price for these waterproof, lash
lengthening formulas. Although the following mascara recipe isn’t waterproof and won’t add length to your lashes, it is natural and free of any harmful chemicals.
When making mascara, you must work quickly before the gel gets too thick, which makes it hard to fill the tube. It took me several tries to get one filled. Oh, and it can be very messy. Be sure to cover your work surface with waxed paper.
You make this recipe in several parts. Read the entire recipe carefully before you start. While you’re melting the waxes, you’ll also be working on the water phase.
Here’s what you need to make mascara:
UÑ2 small saucepans UÑStove with 2 burners UÑScale
UÑSyringe, with no needle (Look for one with a big hole in the end for drawing up this thickish gel.)
Chapter 10: For the Eyes 163
UÑSeveral mascara tubes
UÑA couple spoons or a tiny whisk UÑSmall cups or bowls
UÑFillable mascara tubes UÑPaper towels—lots
PRETTY POINTER
If your mascara dries out before you’ve had a chance to use it up, add a few drops of olive oil and twist the wand around to help loosen the mascara inside the tube.
Let the olive oil soak into the mascara and then you’ll be able to continue using it.
Mascara
Do not try to make more than this 2-ounce recipe at a time. The mascara will become too thick before you can fill all the tubes. You will use an oil of your choice to “wet”
the oxide so it can be added to your formulation without any lumps or clumps. This oil can be any of your favorite oils, even glycerin if you prefer. This recipe makes 2 ounces (56.7 grams), or enough to fill 3 or 4 mascara tubes.
The color:
Oxide or color grind .1 ounce (2.8 grams) Wetting oil (your choice) .05 ounce (1.4 grams)
IN THE MIRROR
Just like in cooking, you have to wet a dry ingredient to add it to a liquid. You have to do that in this recipe with the oxide so it dissolves quicker when it’s added to the melted waxes. I like to use sweet almond oil.
The waxes:
Candelilla wax .15 ounce (4.3 grams)
Beeswax .1 ounce (2.8 grams)
Emulsifying or polar wax .1 ounce (2.8 grams)
Stearic acid .1 ounce (2.8 grams)
The water and thickeners:
Distilled water 1.4 ounces (39.7 grams) Aloe vera gel (or your choice) .06 ounce (1.7 grams)
Jojoba oil .05 ounce (1.4 grams)
Glycerin .05 ounce (1.4 grams)
HEC .03 ounce (.9 gram)
Just before you fill the tubes, add:
Preservative .02 ounce (.6 gram)
1. Put a small cup or bowl on your scale and push the tare button to zero out the weight of the container. Weigh your oxide or color grind. Remove the container from the scale. Weigh the wetting oil in another bowl, and add to the colorant.
Stir well, ensuring the oil is well distributed throughout the colorant. Set aside.
2. Weigh the waxes, and put them in the first saucepan. Set them aside for now.
3. Now put another small container or cup on the scale and again push the tare button. Weigh the water, aloe vera or other oil, jojoba oil, and glycerin. Add those to the second saucepan.
4. Now put another small container or cup on the scale, push the tare button, and weigh the HEC. Set the HEC aside for now.
5. Set both saucepans over the lowest heat. Slowly melt the waxes while you heat the water. When the water mixture is warm and the waxes in the other pan are almost melted, remove the water pan from the heat and add the HEC. Stir until it’s completely dissolved.
6. Add the oxide mixture to the melted waxes, and stir well. Remember to work quickly!
BEAUTY BIT
HEC (Hydroxyethylcellulose) is a water-soluble thickener used in cosmetics. It’s a natural substance that comes from cellulose (paper).
Chapter 10: For the Eyes 165
7. Add the water mixture to the wax mixture, and stir. It will get all lumpy. Return the saucepan to the stove and over medium-low, stir until it all comes together.
It may take a few minutes to get the mixture hot enough to come together, but be patient and give it time to do its thing. Don’t rush it. Remove from heat and continue stirring. Now add the preservative, and mix well again.
8. Fill the mascara tubes using a syringe. Tap them on the counter to be sure no air is caught in the tubes as you fill them. Leave a little space at the top so you can insert the brush and screw it down into the tube.
9. Let the mascara cure for 4 or 5 days before use.
Enjoy your new natural mascara!
For good eyelash conditioner, mix equal parts of two or three oils such as grapeseed, apricot kernel, and sweet almond oils, and apply a light coating to eyelashes at night before bed. You can also condition your eyelashes using castor oil jelly.
The Least You Need to Know
t
It’s easy and so much fun to make eye shadows. Your choices of colors are nearly limitless!t
When working with micas and oxides, especially in such tiny amounts as are necessary for eye shadows, you’ll need a good scale.