III. Discusión de Resultados
3.2. Ensayos de fricción y desgaste con lubricación mediante líquidos iónicos puros
3.2.3. Procesos triboquímicos e interacciones superficiales con LI puros
3.2.3.2. Discos de aluminio. Huellas y partículas de desgaste
In the early months of 2013, Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, expressed the wish for the group’s leader brand Louis Vuitton to limit the overexposure of the brand in order to preserve its uniqueness. Once again, this responds to a global demand for uniqueness which gives added value to the brand: if a product can be found everywhere and is worn by many, it will lose its appeals to the luxury consumer.
By investing into traditional tailors, these luxury groups are hoping to buy an induced social status as well as an image of impeccable quality that will radiate over the entire group. These groups are in significant need for legitimacy. PPR, for instance, has changed its name for Kering, a name with roots from the French Bretagne region, and is looking to sell its brands that are not in adequacy with the luxury and fashion image the group wants to showcase, while keeping only brands with a strong image of quality and creativity such as Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta and, of course, Brioni. The groups are looking to add to their portfolio one-of-a-kind firms that are the best in their particular area of expertise. The same applies with watchmaking or luxury spirits; for instance, there will always be only one Château d’Yquem wine, which is considered to be the best in the world in its category, and it is owned by LVMH, no other group will have the chance to offer products with the same quality and reputation.
Alessandro Sartori, newly appointed - from Z Zegna - artistic director at Berluti, explains to journalist Andre Bigozzi that “the key words for us remain quality and intimacy. A brand like ours has to create value, not only imagery, and our stores have to become clubs where we will maintain an exclusive relationship with the customers who can decide to personalise or modify a garment”. The ideas expressed by Mr. Sartori show that with Berluti, LVMH wants to cater to a niche market of ultra-affluent customers and create a club-like brand to maintain a long-term relationship with these truly important customers.
Traditional houses help luxury groups increase the value of their names and the group as a whole.
38 Journal du Textile n° 2106, November 22, 2011 - La tradition “tailleur” connaît un surprenant retour en vogue
At first, these groups focused on buying over companies with the highest turnovers, then in a second time they focused on the ones with the best margin. In a third step, they focused on the most exceptional luxury products, with for instance jewellery, spirits and watches. Today, these groups seem to be entering a new phase where they want to invest in companies with strong sentimental value, with old-fashion craftsmanship that may disappear in a near future.
By doing this, they also appear as the saviors of craftsmanships, to which the public will respond positively as there always will be a strong attachment towards the things of the past that people do not want to see disappear.
These luxury conglomerates can be expected to be providing technological infrastructure to traditional houses as well as financial means for training new staff members. They can also be expected to encourage product lines extensions and carefully selected store openings while trying to maintain the traditional and niche image.
According to American news agency Reuters, “analysts predict Brioni and Berluti will have to work hard to catch up with better-established rivals such as Hugo Boss, Burberry, Armani, Dunhill and Ermenegildo Zegna, which makes just under half of its 1 billion-euro turnover in Asia.39” This will have to be analysed in the future: on the one hand, these companies may try to rival with luxury giants such as Zegna and Armani, yet on the other hand, they may remain comfortably seated as niche brands pampered by luxury groups to benefit from their local, traditional image.
B) CONCLUSION
Had this analysis been more of a sociological approach to men’s style, a very important concept to develop would have been the importance of style influencers in popular culture, nowadays in cinema and on TV, formerly through literature and social influence. The influence of dandyism and particularly of George ‘Beau’ Brummel on modern style was studied and proved by many fashion experts. The list of great thinkers who wrote about menswear is quite long, with for instance Honoré de Balzac and his Traité de la la vie élégante, or Oscar Wilde, for whom style aesthetics were amongst the most important preoccupations. Today, so-called ‘modern dandies’ relayed by men’s style bibles such as GQ, Esquire or The Rake, help men feel more confident with their choices and bring elegance back into their list of priorities. Tailoring has grown into a genuine passion for thousands of
39 Luxury giants battle it out in menswear | Reuters, http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/12/08/luxury-idUSL5E7N749C20111208 (accessed May 12, 2013)
men online who gather into communities in advice-exchange forums or launch their own website for style-related news, inspiration and, quite importantly, guidance.
With the incredible development of Web 2.0 (characterised by the interactivity between web-users), custom-made tailoring, which started as a niche market struggling to survive with an aging clientele and workforce, has, as proven throughout this document, grown into a significant part of the luxury market worldwide. What will be the next step? While Olivier Saillard told to the writer of these lines that he does not believe in a prosperous future, explaining that “there might be a future (for bespoke and made-to-measure garments) but I do not think it can be prosperous. It is certainly a weak sector”, growing numbers and recent investments seem to be going against his opinion. It has already been proven that the renewal of interest towards custom-tailoring is not a mere fad, but a long-lasting trend. The legitimate question is now to know how long this will last. In fact, upon studying the online environment, several blogs and online magazines that used to put tailoring and traditional, hand-made products at the core of their editorial content have now shifted towards edgy, designer fashion which they were against just three years ago. If the community of amateurs decreases in developed country, it seems to be at a starting point in emerging countries, which means, as luxury companies’ experiences have proved, that the years ahead are likely to be prosperous.
In order to survive on the long run, traditional tailoring will have to adapt to technology.
Firms have already started to improve their online strategies and offer different services to cater to online consumers. With the steady growing number of HNWi’s (High Net Worth Individuals) across the world, the demand for always-better luxury will consequently keep growing. Italian tailor Corneliani is a good example of what may be coming next for tailors.
The firm has developed a water-repellent fabric which uses nanotechnology blended within the cloth. They have also managed to develop a fabric that constantly smells of green tea.
Might they accept it or not, the future will be customisable to an extent that one would not have envisaged 5 years ago. The key developments of textile technology will likely be created to work around the human body shape, with for instance body-shaping fabrics, or electronically-heating garments. The firms that will manage to blend the right amount of tradition with the right amount of technology can quickly become market leaders and experience a substantial boom in sales. Furthermore, since technology can only exist through R&D (research and development), luxury conglomerates can be expected to largely invest into R&D in order to provide their cherished tailors with an edge over the competition.
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Table of contents
A) Introduction 4-5
I) Overview of bespoke and made-to-measure men's tailoring 6
I). 1. Definitions 6
1.1. Bespoke 6
1.2. Traditional made-to-measure (or custom-fit, custom-made) 7
1.3. Industrial measure 7
I). 2. Price construction 8
I). 3. The constituents of tailoring 8
3.1 Service 8
5.4. Tailoring in the United States 21
5.5. Additional significant countries 22
5.5.1 Japan 22