EDUCACIÓN HISTÓRICA CON PERSPECTIVA DE GÉNERO

In this section the sorting and grading activities for each of the case study companies is analysed comparatively. At IGC sorting activities are directly influenced by the current demand and market price for each type of product the company can make. The company do not currently sort into fibre type, but would not rule this out if the demand were to emerge in the market. For TRAID seven to eight tonnes of textiles are sorted per day on the conveyor belt into categories for wholesale export and for each of the eleven charity shops operated by TRAID. LMB employed a double sorting method, in which textiles were sorted into chutes twice over to increase the quality and accuracy of grades, creating a better product and extracting more value.

Table 11. Cross Case Analysis – Sorting and Grading sub-themes

IGC TRAID LMB

Process Models

During the case studies, processing activity data was collected through first hand observation and documented visually in process models, field notes and photographic evidence; literally

‘walking the flow’ as recommended by Manos (2006). Key members of staff were consulted to refine observational data collected on the flow of processing activity and confirm the accuracy of observations. This enabled the identification of processes by which waste textile value streams were elevated to maximise environmental, social and economic benefits. Extended observation was carried out at IGC, enabling much more comprehensive data to be collected at this site. Process models were created for the IGC, TRAID and LMB processing routes, showing: sorting and grading, transportation, products created, numbers of workers for each stage, the direction of flow of activity and when storage occurred. Business process modelling is used to describe how organisations such as businesses perform their work. These models can be used to train new employees, re-engineer processes, develop simulations to test the processes and to develop systems to automate the processes (Dufresne and Martin, 2003).

As a company’s success can be determined by the accumulation of activities which take place in each business process, analysing these processes gave key insights into how an organisation accomplishes its objectives (Jacka and Keller, 2009).

Flow charts were used as the main way of graphically illustrating and analysing processes in the models. Dufresne & Martin (2003) cite flow charts as one of the most simple methods to model processes in an organisation, with ‘functional flow block diagrams’ a development of this, used to show the order of execution of system functions, which can take either concurrent or alternative paths. Described by Giaglis (2001) as ‘a simple, graphic means of communication, intended to support narrative descriptions of processes when the latter become complicated and difficult to follow’, flow charts have the advantages of showing the overall structure of a system, the flow of information and work, and the location of key processing points (Giaglis, 2001), alongside ease of use and clarity. Hines & Rich (1997) also cite flow charts as part of suite of tools used in process activity mapping, recommending that after a preliminary analysis of the processes have been undertaken, followed by the detailed recording of all the items required in each process, a simple flow chart of the types of activity being undertaken at any one time can then be made. A key to symbols used in the process models is shown in Figure 18.

Figure 18. Process model key

IGC Process Models

At the time of this research, two distinct sorting routes existed within IGC, and one sub-route for vintage.

Figure 19. IGC, Bazaar Street process model (24th May 2013)

In the first route, collections arrived at the Bazaar Street site and were minimally sorted, by removing any plastic bags, rubbish or non-textile items, and then packed into bulk bags, labelled to indicate the collection origins of those textiles. End markets typically were Eastern Europe and the UK.

Figure 20. IGC, Hilton Square process model (14th May 2013)

In the second route, collections for further sorting were sent to the Hilton Square site and loaded onto the conveyor belt with rubbish and non-textile items removed, and shoes were sorted out from the textiles. Items were picked off the belt and sorted and graded into multiple

categories, first in trolley cages then into categorised chutes / cupboards, before being baled into many distinct product categories for African, Eastern European and Asian markets.

Figure 21. IGC, Bazaar Street Vintage process model (24th May 2013)

In an additional sub-route, bags of vintage items from Hilton Square were brought over after being sorted into the general categories. Deliveries are brought over by vehicle in bags, then emptied out and sorted into the individual item types and by season before being sold in the wholesale boutique as individual items or by weight for the poorer quality items.

TRAID Process Model

Figure 22. TRAID, Wembley process model (21st July 2014)

At TRAID collections are fed on to a conveyor belt, with rubbish and non-textile items removed.

Sorters then categorise items from the belt for each of the 11 charity shops and for wholesale export. Items are packed into bulk bags for export or piled into trolley cages to be transported to one of the charity shops.

119 LMB Process Model

Figure 23. LMB, Canning Town process model (19th November 2014)

At LMB, collections in large recycling centre banks arrive at the site and are emptied onto a large conveyor belt, which carries items up into the sorting facility. Rubbish, non-textile items, pillows and duvets are removed, and shoes are sorted out from the textiles, before items enter onto two smaller conveyor belts that feed two trolley cages. Cages are then brought to the

120

chutes, where sorters grade items in to the reuse or recycling categories in front of them. Items to be graded located elsewhere are placed in wheelie bins and taken to the appropriate sorting location when full. Items are then baled or bagged for sale and distribution or storage.

Sorting Process

At each of the case study locations, the sorting process operated as a production line, in which collections of clothing and textile items arrived in bulk quantities, often in small plastic bag lots which needed to be opened up. Items would then be fed on to a conveyor belt which would transport the items for sorting as at LMB, or function as the initial sorting by hand stage as at IGC and TRAID. LMB did not sort directly from the belt, but used a double sort method with their chutes to ensure accuracy. Main points of difference also occurred in the size of each operation. TRAID had the smallest sorting operation with around 20 sorters, while LMB and IGC had between 30 and 40 sorters each. The number of grades sorted to was also reflected in the size of each operation. TRAID sorted into around seven wholesale grades, with a separate sort for each of the 11 shops, whereas IGC sorted into at least 22 grades and LMB into at least 44. Waste presented a problem at each of the case studies, particularly wet, soiled and damaged textiles. These were either stored or disposed of as at IGC or simply disposed of at TRAID. LMB had facilities to dry wet items. Duvets and pillows presented a problem for both TRAID and LMB, with not available markets for these items. IGC were able to export some bedding items such as duvets and quilts, although these items are of minimal value and demand is low. IGC expect to change their sorting methods to create a greater variety of more specialised grades, in order to extract more value from their collections. LMB used a double sort method to increase accuracy in sorting; suggesting that this also prevents loss of value.

TRAID’s shop managers were directly involved in sorting and picking items for the shops they managed, utilising their knowledge of these local markets to ensure targeted selections of products were supplied.

121 4.2.4 Key Theme 3: Value

Table 12. Cross Case Analysis – Value sub themes

IGC TRAID LMB

per tonne NOT AVAILABLE 100 tonnes

Sales observations

Collection costs for IGC fell over the three years studied, although by December 2014 costs had started to level out, once door to door collections were negligible and cash for clothes goods in had stopped. Door to door and cash for clothes were the two of the most expensive