Einstein y la función de los experimentos mentales

Lots to tell, and I'll be posting it in instalments over the next few days. Also Patou and Goutal.

July 28, 2005 | Permalink

COMMENTS

Thank you so much for these updates, Luca! I'm very skeptical about Guerlain right now. Time will tell how they turn out. On Goutal, they were sold as part of Taittinger to an American company. Do you have any news on the plans for Goutal?

Posted by: Fiveoaks Bouquet | July 28, 2005 at 11:59 PM

Hi Luca or anyone, can you give me your opinion on Guerlain's Mahora? I thought it was a shame when it was discontinued.

Posted by: Susan_msuk | September 22, 2005 at 02:13 PM Mahorish

Posted by: luca turin | September 22, 2005 at 02:49 PM Still smells gorgeous on me!

Posted by: susan_msuk | September 23, 2005 at 10:40 AM

Le 68

I was very courteously given a tour of the flagship Guerlain store at 68 Champs Elysées by Guerlain's head of PR, Elizabeth Sirot. One thing is clear: LVMH spent scads of money on remodelling the store, and they clearly have faith in the brand. The perfume part of Guerlain's headquarters used to be the ground floor, square in plan and not particularly large, decorated in a sort of boudoir rococo with lots of marble and mirrors. That's still there, but the stands at the four corners have been redone in a strange expensive wood that looks vaguely like the lectern in a modern church, or an Artschwager sculpture. Guerlain are not entirely happy with the result, and further changes will be made.

From there you climb up the staircase at the back to what used to be the Institut de Beauté, and you enter a different world . The French are not noted for understatement, and when they spend money on being mysterious (Lutens), design (Malle) or austere (Iunx) they want you to notice every Euro. Guerlain is no exception, and the first glimpse you get as you emerge on the landing is sensational, a vast Gaudì-like cave of gold mosaic with white accents, like being inside a whale that swallowed a ton of glitter. Fronting the building, two large

rooms, one with the “standard” Guerlain range, the other with the new stuff, separated by a partition on which sit the revivals and a peculiar collection consisting of “ephemeral” perfumes now made permanent and of “deletions” undeleted, about which more later.

The immediate impression, seeing, as one seldom does, the entire Guerlain range is “my, how you've grown !” 30 or so classics and semi classics, a dozen Aqua Allegorias, a couple of new fragrances on the back wall, 20 or so weird ephemeral/undeletes, the three new “Matières” that everyone talks about, the classic (Vega) brought back from the dead, a limited edition “Plus Que Jamais” fragrance in Baccarat crystal, the home range (3 fragrances available as candles, sprays and, curiously, joss-sticks), two baby fragrances, and I'm sure I've forgotten something. The feeling is that the joint is hopping, and full credit must go to the new management who boarded the ship in a sorry state just after Champs Elysees and Mahora.

Another thing that's changed for the better is the atmosphere of the place. French luxury outfits tend towards the starchy, and it usually takes a good dose of self confidence to breeze in and speak in normal tones to the impeccable and rather lofty sales attendants. The upstairs room is not like this: no-one comes up to you unless you require it, there is a place to sit down, smelling strips everywhere, a feeling of space and time in ample supply. If you plan a visit to Paris, you can confidently schedule a whole afternoon smelling the collection. While you're at it, if you're feeling flush, book the soup-to-nuts treatment in the spa. I am not an expert on such things, but the different rooms, hospital-clean and equipped with exquisite torture instruments looked very inviting and beautiful. Most of the building is classed monument historique, and the thirties rooms are back to their original splendor. For 200 euros, you'll stagger back onto the pavement two hours later and take a taxi across the Champs Elysees to Fouquet's to enjoy a cocktail in bad company.

of my evil columns. I explained that Guerlain had no better friends in the whole world than its aficionados, and that if she needed help to convince LVMH not to mess with the other monuments I (and many others) would be glad to oblige. I got a distinct impression, by the way, that the hiring of the great Edouard Fléchier instead of a callow youth to oversee mods to the classics was in part helped by my original NZZ column. Bear in mind that the perfume industry is not used to criticism, and much prefers supine puff pieces written by tame hacks. She explained to me that I had damaged Guerlain's image by writing so scathingly of L'Instant. My reaction was: if criticism has an effect, so must praise. How come nobody sends flowers when I say good things ? I also explained that vastly greater projects, like movies and cars have their reviewers in the press, and that the fragrance world would simply have to Get Used To It. We parted on very good terms.

(to be continued)

July 28, 2005 | Permalink

COMMENTS

Luca, I am jubilating (not sure this word exists in English ...) Hope Madame Sirot gets to read this : I am 200 % with you and, Madame Sirot : Guerlain n'avait pas besoin de M. Turin pour ternir leur image ....

Well, well, hope to read more of this soon !_Don't forget to post your impressions of the 3 new "Matières".

Posted by: Anne Martin | July 28, 2005 at 12:38 PM

It is fascinating to read. Yes, it is true, there is hardly any critical writing on fragrance in the press. Until recently, your guide was the first criticism of fragrance I encountered. Of course, internet is changing this trend, with more diversity in independent opinion appearing across the board. Thanks for the update! Sounds

like you had a great visit to Paris.

Posted by: Victoria | July 28, 2005 at 02:08 PM

Oh yeahhhhhhh!_Please,hurry,can't wait to read the rest about the fragances you have tried._For guerlain,well,what can one say?All the lovers of this mark know it has changed...if they took their success for granted and think we are stupid enough not to realize the quality is not something they have in mind anymore,it is our right to mention it and not be happy with it._And yes it's true,Guerlain didn't need Mister Turin comments to get bad._We all knew that,and some of us wrote mails... Make a wish...they'll change and return back to where they started._Thanks Mister Turin,as always.

Posted by: julien | July 28, 2005 at 02:31 PM

Like Victoria, I believe that proper perfume reviews are a recent phenomenon, and that it will take time for established names in the industry to learn how to cope with them. Some brands still seem to be doused in an aura of sanctity. If that’s really just a strategy (keeping up appearances), then it’s not in tune with our times. The perfume business is finally being taken seriously by the outside world, and that’s something to cherish. Besides, there is no greater compliment than the wholehearted rant of a passionate connoisseur. Afterall, isn’t that a true token of affection as well? ;-)

Posted by: Marcello | July 28, 2005 at 03:04 PM

I hope to write my review on Guerlain store as soon as possible as I plan a "fragrant trip" to Paris. I think the same as Marcello that perfume review & perfume critics is a phenomen proper to our era. Also speaking of perfume as art & creation, with its own philosophy, estethic principles, esthetic theory is quite new (except some singular voices of the past, ex. the great Roudnitska). So, as for the graphic art in the 20 (Bauhaus era, etc) or the movies in later era or previously the music in the 18th-19th century (Bach, contrapuntto, etc.) there will be very soon a period when

perfume theory - as an art of composition -will find its path. And when I am talking about theory its not about fragrance synthesis / chemistry / perception, nor even about techniques of production / extraction / marketing... but about "fragrance formes - les formes olfactives"... :)_I am waiting with great interest your comments about new Guerlain and hope to give mines very soon.

Posted by: Octavian | July 28, 2005 at 03:27 PM what fun!

i dont rate l'instant either, but the world can't throw up that many jacques guerlains. im happy enough with the golden oldies. just dont mess with them, please!

Posted by: marymary | July 28, 2005 at 03:27 PM

Well, it shall be interesting to see if they ever do Get Used To It. I cannot think of many other industries that have managed to go so long without being subjected to criticism. Even the fashion industry, which has plenty of palaver written about it by tame hacks, does survive a bit of serious writing on the subject.

Posted by: Robin | July 28, 2005 at 04:15 PM

Thank you for the tour! Delighted to hear that the intimidation factor of the shop has been reduced. The reputation of French boutique sales associates had been such as to chill the blood. It now sounds as relaxed as a Sephora: wander, spray, sniff at leisure. Better than a spa. Well, maybe not, but *cheaper* than a spa.

The thought that you damaged Guerlain's image by disparaging L'Instant is silly, when you have written with such appreciation of their better works—such as L'Instant for Men. Complain, complain. Well, people don't know the value of free, honest criticism. (They only know the worth of it when they pay for it and call it consulting.)

and resurrected scents!

Posted by: Tania | July 28, 2005 at 04:31 PM

Very interesting! Perhaps you will change the course of history - you've given me hope! I have just returned from a trip to NYC where I dabbed on a bit of Guerlain Cherry Blossom parfum from an adorable crystal bottle that was so enticing with its pink label that I wanted to drink it like a cordial - Ah, if only I had an extra $250, but I'd already promised my discretionary income to Serge Lutens and Carthusia - My little Cherry Blossom, I'll be back for you come December.

Posted by: Demetrue | July 28, 2005 at 07:19 PM

Luca, Thank you for giving an inside panarama view of your grand tour of the newly-renovated flagship Guerlain Paris store, by the gracious head of PR, Elizabeth Sirot! _Your comments about L'Instant most definitely had a strong effect! But,why did they send you bath oil & face powder -- good intentions, but, a snafu PR problem! Hopefully, from now on LVMH will stay true to the exclusive Guerlain signature name and provide quality perfumes as in the past & will provide great customer service. _Next time you visit Guerlain, don't pass up the opportunity to get the full spa treatment! Being a tourist in another city makes for tired feet & jarred nerves! A relaxing Guerlain spa-treatment is just the ticket to making the long trip a wonderful & rejuvenating experience!

Posted by: Sally | July 28, 2005 at 07:57 PM

Sounds like a delicious place to spend a few hours... and more than a few dollars. How nice to hear they were stung by your criticisms! Perhaps that means they're actually paying attention and might learn something from their devoted customers.

Posted by: Sharon | July 28, 2005 at 11:31 PM

You report a new vigor, a lovely atmosphere (silly glittery whale guts excepted) and a wide choice of fragrances to choose from. Sounds promising. Hopefully M. Sirot

and others take the criticism, given in the spirit of love of the products, as constructive, and stop the defensive posturing.

Please comment on the amazing aromatic plumbing as shown in the recent NYT article. Is that where the customers are allowed to fill their own bottles? Did you play with this contraption? It seemed forbidding and delicate in the photo, and I'm wondering how much it will actually be used. Or can be used.

Posted by: Anya | July 28, 2005 at 11:52 PM

I quite agree perfumes deserve reviews like cars or films but... as the former editor in chief of French women's magazine, I know that it is practically impossible to write anything but puff for a very simple reason: advertising. _In a recent study I made of 7 French fashion magazines over one year, of advertising and editorials for 7 major fashion/perfume brands, I calculated that the two heaviest hitters were Chanel (Advertising : 307 pages / Editorial : 362.50 pages) and Dior (Advertising : 399 pages/ Editorial : 361.75 pages)._With such considerable advertising budgets, perfume and cosmetics reviews are never less than glowing. In editorial offices, beauty editors aren't quite considered journalists. They just get the beautiful packages, copy the press book and, hopefully, hand out some of the goodies to the writers. _So don't be hoping for the press to write truthfully about perfume any time soon...

This is unfortunate of course for true perfume connoisseurs, and, being a longtime admirer of your writing, Mr Turin (when are the Editions Hermé publishing a new editions?) I'm so very glad to have wandered into this website.

Best regards, Denyse

Posted by: Denyse | July 29, 2005 at 01:27 AM

They already put Chamade in a cheap polyester suit. I wait with baited breath to hear of the fate of Mitsouko and Jicky. It's like having old relatives taken hostage,

hoping that they will be released relatively unscathed.

Posted by: Evan | July 29, 2005 at 05:20 AM

Life in Paris blog (Neela) has posted lovely pics of the new Guerlain interior..._http://parislondon.blogspot.com/2005_06_01_parislondon_archive.htm l_see her June archives if i didn't get the link right._(hope it's okay to post link!)

Posted by: debra | July 29, 2005 at 10:02 AM

Sharon: the plumbing looked decorative, and the transparent pipes are brilliantly backlit (not good for fragrance). Nobody appeared to be filling bottles while I was there.

Anya: I agree, but since car magazines have reviews and ads, what's so irretrievably different here ?

Posted by: luca turin | July 29, 2005 at 04:12 PM

Hi Luca:_I'm the one who wrote about the plumbing feature (which I love the look of, but fear the functionality of.)

If I might add a bit on the magazine ads/editorial angle, too; I have several friends that are on staff for women's magazines here in the States. What they relate about puff "journalism" and product placement echoes what Denyse wrote.

A new products is released by Dior; it is guaranteed placement, in glowing terms, in that month's "must have" column, or article on that aspect of beauty (shiner hair, clearer skin, whatever.)

Perhaps the beauty mags just haven't caught up to the car mags in maturity and ethics (probably a bad choice of words, but they are what spring to mind first.)

Posted by: Anya | July 29, 2005 at 04:38 PM

Over three months ago I purchased a new bottle of Joy EDP. ( I still had other Joy products, including small amounts of perfume, EDP and EDP.)

When the new box of Joy EDP arrived, the first thing I noticed was the downgraded materials of the box. No big deal, since I didn't buy the eau de parfum for the box. But my first clue to the alteration of the product inside was printed on the bottom of the box, where I read that the product inside was made by Proctor and Gamble Prestige Beaute' and that this quintessentially French fragrance is now being manufactured in the UK. (England)

I recognised when trying the new product that Joy's formulation has been changed. At first that bothered me so much that I only hoped my perception had altered by reading the bottom of the box. Would that it were so. I have 4 times tested the older Jean Patou Joy EDP and EDT to the Joy EDP I received. The new product lacks depth and subtle complexities of the original formulation. The worst characteristic of the new product is an alkaline soapy note which appears during the first spray and lingers through the middle of a wearing. It is identical to the fragrance of inexpensive jasmine scented soaps from first application to the drydown.

Gone from Joy EDP are the richness of intoxicating jasmine and the luxurious honeyed Bulgarian rose. Also MIA are the deep sandalwood and earthy civet basenotes. Instead I smelled a very ordinary musk.

The change of Joy's formula could be the worst assault upon perfume connoisseurs in my lifetime. It's only fitting that the manufacturers of Tide and Joy dishwashing liquid would regard one of the greatest perfumes in the world as just another liquid to be made cheaply and sold to supposedly unknowledgable 'consumers'.

Mr. Turin, am I mistaken in perceiving an alteration to the Joy EDP formula? ( Luckily, I was in a mood the other day. I had some rare raw materials at hand and during a decanting session, I composed a perfume remarkably similar to the original Joy. Unfortunately I probably can never duplicate it as I worked by nose, and didn't measure. )

Pardon me, please. I was on the Patou page where I meant to make the above post. When I registered, I was apparently switched to this guerlain page. Can the post be moved?

Posted by: Morticia Addams 7 | July 31, 2005 at 10:16 PM

And, Hope when you do go back to Guerlain 68, you get their full spa treatment and, that it's on the house!

Posted by: Sally | August 08, 2005 at 05:36 PM

As a beauty editor I would like to comment on Mme Denyse's remarks. I have to agree on the fact that beauty press isn't (allowed to be)very critical (for obvious reasons) and suffers since the economic slowdown from an increasing commercial pressure. Anyone with a slightly sceptical mind notices that and should take that into account while reading reviews on lifestyle products in general. Although anyone with a minimum of expertise can tell the difference between an empty marketing juice and the greater stuff, perfume remains a matter of personal taste, it's not something 100% technical like a car, for exemple._But to say that beauty editors aren't considered 'journalists' is one bridge too far for me. I became a beauty editor out of passion, I take my job seriously and truly believe that regardless of what one writes about, you do it with indepth knowledge of the matter and research. Of course: lifestyle journalism has a very commercial character as we write a lot about products, but I truly wonder how 'independent' other journalistic fields remain today (remember the Newsweek farce?). And if Mme Denyse considers her former beauty editor no more than a Xerox of press files, maybe that says more about her as an editor-in-chief than anything else.

Posted by: Sofie | August 17, 2005 at 04:04 PM

ose Barbare (Guerlain)

The new Guerlains... I cannot recall as much expectancy around a perfume launch, all of us standing around in the waiting room like relatives hoping for news after a

life-saving operation. Actually, as I think later posts will make clear, Guerlain now seems headed for rude commercial health whether or not these three are successes.