El sistema Portic como solución a los inconvenientes

Good thread, same colour as binding fabric

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Topstitch foot, recommended

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Prepare the binding

2. Cut the bias strip

Measure the length of the entire neckline and add 10cm (4"); this is the length to cut the strip. Decide how wide you want the finished binding to be and multiply this dimension by 6 or 7. Some width will be lost when you stretch-press the binding (see page 23), so read step 3 below and make a sample to see how wide your strip should be. Cut a bias strip of the required size.

3. Prepare the double-fold bias strip

Stretch press the bias strip (page 23).

Now follow the photo sequence opposite to make the double-fold strip.

Stabilize the neckline

1. Stitch along the seamline

Staystitch the individual pieces (back and front). Sew the shoulder seams and press the allowances open. Staystitch the entire neckline directly on the seamline using a stitch length setting of 2.5mm (10 stitches per inch). This prevents the neckline from stretching during handling and acts as a visual guide for applying the binding. For easier handling, place a single layer of tissue paper between the garment and the feed dogs as a temporary stabilizer.

SEWI NG T O OLS

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Attach the binding

4. Position and stitch in place

Place the garment right side up. Open the folded bias strip and place it right side down on the garment, with the end at the centre back neckline; position it so the strip lies on the garment side of the staystitching and the cut edge of the narrower side is aligned against the staystitching as shown. Begin stitching about 2.5cm (1") from the centre back; sew directly in the fold closest to the staystitching, gently coaxing the bias strip to lie smoothly around the curve (no manhandling or pulling, just encouragement).

Right sides together.

5. Join the binding ends

Stop stitching about 2.5cm (1") from the centre back. Determine where the two ends will meet at the centre back and join them in a seam on the straight grain. Trim the seam allowances to 6mm (¹⁄⁴") and press open. Finish stitching the last bit of the binding to the garment.

Once stitched down, press the entire bias binding towards the seam allowance.

3. Repeat the process for the other edge of the strip, but this time don’t bring the cut edge all the way to the first fold – you want one side of the bias to be a little wider than the other. A difference of 2mm (¹⁄16") is ideal.

Pressing double-fold bias

1. Fold the strip in half lengthways, right side out, and press.

2. Anchor the strip at one end (pin onto the pressing surface) and fold one long edge under to meet the first fold as shown. Pin about every 7.5 to 10cm (3" to 4") then press, removing the pins as you go (don’t press on top of them).

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6. Trim away the seam allowance Trim away the garment neckline seam allowance, cutting off the staystitching as you do this.

Trim along the staystitch line.

7. The trimmed seam allowance Be sure to cut neatly so the new edge is smooth and an even distance from the seam that attaches the binding. This is extremely important because the binding will wrap the edge, so you want that edge to be smooth.

Also, on some finer fabrics, the staystitching can form a very unattractive bumpy ridge – so make sure you cut it off!

8. Wrap and pin the binding Fold the binding up and over the edge to the wrong side and pin it in place. This is the only time I find pinning necessary in this process. Make sure the binding covers the stitches on the inside of the garment. If your folded bias binding does not extend below the seamline by 2mm (¹⁄¹⁶"), go back and evenly trim away a small amount more from the seam allowance.

1. Arrange the strips in a right angle, right sides together, and stitch along the diagonal, trim parallel to the stitched line.

2. Press the seam allowances open.

Joining bias strips

If you are working with scraps or small amounts of fabric and can’t cut a bias strip in the length you need, join two pieces on the straight grain.

3. Trim the extending corner to make a neat edge.

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Couture secrets

Make a dummy run first! You need to experiment to perfect this technique and results depend on the fabric you are using, so make sure you have enough on hand to make some samples.

9. Complete the binding Stitch in the ditch (just below the previous seamline) from the right side, using a topstitch foot or an edgestitch foot. Remove the pins as you go.

By stitching from the right side, you can see that your stitches fall in the ditch of the previous seam. You should catch the reverse of the binding as you go, since you left an overlap.

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STYLE SUGGESTION

• Introducing a complementary texture when selecting an accent colour for the binding completes the look.

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Chiffon! Now there is a word that will conjure up fear and trepidation in the most experienced sewer. Finishing the edges of anything made from chiffon – feminine, semi-transparent ethereal garments – can be a daunting task. But silk organza comes to the rescue; if you use it to stabilize the edge, it keeps the chiffon in order.

Here is a way to add a charmeuse binding to chiffon.

Silk organza, natural colour, for neckline

• interfacing

Microtex or sharp needle, recommended

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Single-hole throat plate, recommended

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4. Position and stitch in place Follow step 4 of Double-Fold Silk Charmeuse Binding, page 31, to sew the binding onto the right side of the garment.

Prepare the binding

3. Cut and fold the bias strip Follow steps 2 and 3 of Double-Fold Silk Charmeuse Binding, page 30, to cut a bias strip and fold it to the right size for the binding.

Stabilize the neckline

1. Interface the neckline

Cut a piece of silk organza the shape of the neckline for each garment piece, making it about twice the width of the seam allowance. Pin or hand-tack in place in the neck seam allowance.

2. Stitch along the seamline Staystitch the entire neckline directly on the seamline using a regular stitch length setting of 2.5mm (10 stitches per inch).

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