4. Hacia un Estado Abierto
4.7 Fortalecimiento del acceso a la información de los expedientes judiciales
A more inclusive definition can be found in Tony Fry’s Design Futuring, sustainability, ethics and new
practice (2009), which is especially critical of The Bruntland Report’s definition of sustainable
development. He argued it neither provided a sound definition of ‘sustainability’ nor advocated for economic reform adequate to address the accelerating pace of humanity’s defuturing.144 That Fry drew out the anthropocentric viewpoint of the report has been significant in shifting the design approach
accreditation labels to help consumers make ‘good’ choices.
136. Sandy Black, The Sustainable Fashion Handbook (London: Thames and Hudson, 2012)., Fletcher, Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys.,
Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice.,
Farrer in Gwilt and Rissanen, Shaping Sustainable Fashion: changing the way we make and use clothes.,
Martin Geissdoerfer et al., "The Circular Economy – A new sustainability paradigm?," Journal of Cleaner Production 143 (2017/02/01/ 2017), https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.12.048,
Hethorn and Ulasewicz, Sustainable fashion - why now?: a conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities.,
137. World Commission on Environment and Development, Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common
Future, United Nations World Commission on Environment and Development (WCED) (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1987).
138. "Triple bottom line," The Economist, 17th November 2009, https://www.economist.com/node/14301663.
139. Mark S. Schwartz and Archie B. Carroll, "Corporate Social Responsibility: A Three-Domain Approach," Business Ethics Quarterly 13, no. 4 (2003), https://doi.org/10.5840/beq200313435
140. The Higg Index is a suite of tools that accurately measures a company or product’s sustainability performance. Sustainable Apparel Coalition, "The Higg Index."
141. Sustainable Apparel Coalition, ”Sustainable Apparel Coalition," accessed March 15, 2018, https://apparelcoalition.org/the-sac/. 142. Fletcher quoted in Thomas, "From Green Blur to Ecofashion: Fashioning an Eco-lexicon.", p.535
143. Clive Dilnot, "Sustainability and Unsustainability in a World Become Artificial: Sustainability as a Project of History," Design Philosophy
Papers 9, no. 2 (2011/07/01 2011), https://doi.org/10.2752/144871311X13968752924671, p.114; John R. Ehrenfeld, Sustainability by Design - A Subversive Strategy for Transforming Our Consumer Culture (New Haven, London: Yale University Press, 2008).
taken to sustainability in this thesis. Specifically, it resulted in the study focusing on the agentive capacity of the garment (rather than the designer), to enable sustainable fashion practices.
In its focus on securing the future of human generations, Fry argues that The Bruntland Report overlooks the interconnectedness of all biological life; that the future of the human population necessitates care for the natural world upon which we depend. Further, he argues there is a failure to address the current inequity between human populations, where “small percentages of the world’s population command a disproportionately large amount of its resources.” He argues that a base-line for quality of life should be set that can be met within planetary boundaries. For some populations, this would require significant material restraints.145 Fry situates The Bruntland Report within the political landscape of the time of its publication, which he contends would not have been receptive to a challenge to capitalism.146 Therefore, ’sustainable development’ was little more than “an argument for a mild reform of the existing paradigm of economic development.”147
In addition, Fry contests the implication that sustainability is a realisable objective.148 He instead interprets sustainability as an ongoing condition of ‘sustain-ability’, that he defines as “A means to secure and maintain a qualitative condition of being over time […] a process (rather than an end point) where in all that supports and extends being exceeds everything that negates it.”149 Sustain-ability is deliberately hyphenated to distance its meaning from that conventionally (mis-)understood, and to emphasise that sustain-ability is a state of being (not a project), to be continually enacted to ensure that human activity (including economic activity) sustains rather than diminishes the future. Sustain- ability “…is an acceptance of anthropocentric desire – it is about ‘saving humanity’ by saving what we collectively depend upon […] and it implies changing the processes by which our lives are sustained.”150 In the spirit of major turning points in history, like the Enlightenment, Fry proposes The Sustainment151 and argues it can only be brought about by design, the definition of which he expands beyond its professions to emphasise its world-shaping force. The way Fry draws out the anthropocentric viewpoint, sustainability being human centric, has implications for shifting approaches taken to design for sustainability. Sustain-ability embeds with the design process, the responsibility for its futuring or defuturing consequences.
In this study, approaching design for sustainability as design for ‘sustain-ability’, provides a framework for the practice transformation. ‘Sustain-ability’ as defined by Fry, is used throughout this thesis for its acknowledgment of sustain-ability as a lived condition. I use ‘sustain-ability’ to describe the motivations, methods and outcomes of my own practice, while ‘sustainability’ is used when discussing conventional interpretations of sustainable theory and practice.
145. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.42-43 146. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.41-43 147. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.43 148. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., pp.41-43 149. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.43 150. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.44 151. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice., p.45
DESIGNING SUSTAINABLE FASHION
This section discusses existing theories and practical strategies for sustainability from within fashion and textiles and the wider field of design research. Starting with an overview of the evolution of fashion design for sustainability as a specific field of scholarship within fashion studies, the section moves through a review of existing resources for designers seeking methods of designing fashion with sustainability, and a mapping of practice approaches within industry. A disciplinary tendency to focus on clothing life cycle analysis to inform fashion design for sustainability that overlooks the role fashion plays in determining garment use is discussed with reference to emerging research into clothing use practices.