The only place where farming and tourism do constantly meet is on the plate. Apart from accommodation, many hosts offer meals, and food is an important part of the demand. If in the past only foreigners had a particular interest in local products, hosts are now noticing demand from Romanians has increased36. Mountain villages in
Romania are known for a variety of dairy products prepared from sheepÕs or cowÕs milk. Cheeses such as telemea, caș, urdă, burduf or caș afumat, smoked pork fat, cold cuts and sheep pastrami are typical products offered by locals and served in most pensiuni. Apart from these, the menus include a rich variety of soups and cooked dishes that have little to do with the culinary traditions of the place. In the past, in the area of Bran and Moieciu, typical meals consisted of polenta and a wide range of dairy products. For special occasions, a dish considered superior was rice with milk (Moșoiu 1930: 42). Pork and mutton were rarely on the menu and most often people ate vegetables. Given that villagers observed all the fast days, their diet was actually often vegan, as the orthodox religion dictates that people restrain from any kind of animal products during these periods (idem). Dough boiled in water, a stew of onion and garlic, green beans or cabbage, or polenta with boiled fruit were all common dishes at the beginning of the last century, but nowadays they cannot be found in any restaurant that claims to serve ÔtraditionalÕ food. The only cooked dish that seems to have carried on from the past, becoming a staple of local food, is the bulz, a polenta ball filled with cheese and grilled, ideally on an open fire. The situation is similar in Apuseni where many gastronomic practices are fairly recent and partly prompted by tourist demand. Reading accounts about AlbacÕs past, one finds stories of poverty, scarcity and poor diet (Berindei and Todea 2010:48-49, Vasile 2009a).
We do our best to make it agrotourism, not to [use] these bought products. Whenever I can, I mean. And they are happy for this, some good milk, an egg from underneath a hen [É] they are tasty. Or many tell me that the pork is very tasty. They ask what I do to them [i.e. the pigs]. What I do? I raise them at home. I donÕt get that rubbish that was fattened with all sorts of chemicals (Doina Dumitru, pensiune owner, G‰rda de Sus).
Gastronomy remains the area in which villagers make the best use out of their local
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This parallels the general growing interest among Romanians for consuming organic food and for products labelled as ÔtraditionalÕ, ÔpeasantÕ, or ÔauthenticÕ (Iancu and Mihăilescu 2009).
resources. In contrast to this comes their recourse to another element that is often highlighted by the advertising discourse: nature.
2.7.4. Nature
The natural environment perceived by both tourists and locals as the central asset of the region is surprisingly little integrated in the tourist offer. Tourism services gravitate around the pensiune and the offer has a strong indoor element while the typical outdoor activities remain confined to the garden and gravitate around the gazebos, childrenÕs playgrounds and the barbeque. For the vast majority of the owners, what tourists do when they leave the house is not their concern. Even if many of the locals have land up the mountain slopes, it is very rare to find that they use this resource for entertaining their guests. This offer is very seldom advertised and made visible on the Internet or at the location. The two or three people who mentioned this kind of activity gave me the impression that it was meant only for some guests Ð either the regulars with whom a closer relationship is established, the foreigners, or the tourists who specifically enquire and ask about this option.
To some extent, localsÕ reluctance to encourage tourists to engage with their surroundings stems from a conflict between farming and tourism economy. Tourists who explore too much might endanger an important economic resource: the hay. Haymaking is a crucial part of animal husbandry. Every summer, locals cut and collect the grass from the steep meadows surrounding the villages. After drying, the hay is gathered into stacks or stored in barns and serves as the main food source for sheep and cattle during the winter. Scything is possible because during the warm season the animals are kept from grazing on these pastures and they are taken to sheepfolds and cattle-pen in the mountains. Hay meadows are a valuable resource and locals do not want tourists walking through them. Even though there are no fences, most of the hills around the village have owners who would not be very happy to find people strolling through their prospective hay, flattening the grass and making it difficult or impossible to scythe. This prohibition was mostly noticed and pointed out to me by non-local guesthouse owners and by tourists.
There is a taboo: now in the summer, when the scything begins, you are not allowed to step on the grass on peopleÕs land because the grass will get flattened and itÕs not possible to scythe anymore. You can walk in a line [but
still] itÕs a real problem (Luminița Sima, pensiune owner originally from Bucharest).
Moreover, a local host explained that she or any other villager would be reluctant to allow tourists on their property, since they tend to leave a lot of trash behind. There are also safety issues to consider, as tourists wandering about may come in the proximity of sheepfolds that are guarded by large dogs known to be aggressive.
Another reason why locals did not build their tourist offer in relation to the natural environment is because they are not aesthetically connected to their surroundings in the same way that non-local urbanites or foreigners might be. Some of the migrants who opened a pensiune in Bran or Moieciu describe, sometimes in a passionate tone, the aesthetic qualities of the area, pointing at the numerous landmarks that can be visited and stressing outdoor activities.
I moved here for good in 2005. Well, I am in love with nature, I liked this area a lot. I have been coming here since Ô91, I had a holiday house here and I used to come, while I was in the coutry I would only stay here. Afterwards, when I decided to stay home [retire], I decided to do what I am doin now (Virgil Lazăr, former ship captain, currently guesthouse owner in Bran).
We just fell in love with this place. We used to come for many years in January. In the winter it is like a fairytale. For children it is extraordinary, there is no traffic, no madness, nothing can happen to them (Dana Iancu, pensiune owner living part in Bucharest, part in the village).
Well accustomed with their surroundings, locals rarely express a similar outlook. To them, ÔnatureÕ is a resource to be exploited in farming, not a place of leisurely pastimes. I was sometimes disconcerted to hear villagers arguing that:
Here there really isnÕt anything to visit. Just the village and thatÕs it. We have no historical monuments, nothing else except the Bran castle that is closer, or the National Park. [Tourists] search but they donÕt find much here because nobody takes care to moderniseÉ (Viorica Vlaicu, local from Moieciu).
I know many cases of locals who never even climbed the nearby mountains. Apart from shepherds who need to travel long distances herding their flocks, most of the locals only visit their plots at the outskirts of the village and on the lower mountain slopes. Instead of a space to be contemplated, for them nature is the setting of hard work. Quietness and greenery Ð staples of the discourse about rural tourism Ð are elusive resources that to many seem to be falling outside of their control. Quite telling, one of the few exceptions I came across came from a guesthouse owner who also worked as a ranger for the Bucegi Natural Park and who advertised accommodation packages that included trekking routes. By contrast, a foreign tour agency that brings tourists from abroad was able to organise outdoor activities spanning the entire area, covering several villages and local attractions. The program is quite elaborate and it involves groups of tourists travelling through the mountain paths, on foot or by horse drawn carts, from village to village, spending every night at a different pensiune, where they also receive their meals cooked with local products. To make trekking more enjoyable, the guesthouse owners transfer their luggage by car to their next destination. This type of tourism reflects a different gaze, an alternative understanding of the area, with a stronger emphasis on outdoor activities. However, such options have little or no visibility for domestic tourists. I only learned about these tours by talking with local hosts, but I never came across any reference to them in all my online explorations.
Perhaps the best example of an activity that encourages people to discover the hilly village surroundings is the Ecomarathon, a popular running competition started by an environmental NGO owned by a group of mountain running enthusiasts. Organising the race meant identifying and marking a route of 42 km through the surrounding mountain slopes and advertising this event to networks of runners. Interest for the event grew over the years, and at its 5th edition in 2014, it attracted around 1200 participants37.
The founder of this event is a non-local who studied and worked abroad and who brought in a different outlook than the one shared by most locals. His view of the environment is more inclusive, driven rather by aesthetic and conservation values, and not by the need of converting it into resources. Apart from organising the Ecomarathon, his NGO is trying to find solutions for a more sustainable development of Moieciu, organising meetings with the locals and putting pressure on the authorities. One of their actions resulted in stopping an investor from building an adventure park next to a waterfall, one of the natural landmarks of Moieciu. Villagers offered their support by
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signing the petition, but they agreed to do so more because they wanted to stop a non- local from developing the business. Speaking to them, I could see that they had no problem with the impact of an amusement park over the environment, but they felt that if the waterfall is going to be exploited, someone local should be doing it.
As protective as they are of their hay meadows, as little concerned people in Bran and Moieciu seem to be about the rest of the environment. Instead of seeing it as collective good that should be safeguarded, some of them treat it as no manÕs land. I heard numerous complaints about pensiuni Ð often the larger ones, emptying their septic tanks into the river. As evidence, people invoke the foul smell that can be sensed in some nights if one walks close to the river and they also speak about the declining numbers of fish. I actually know someone who had to give up his trout farm because the polluted water had killed his fish on several occasions. A couple of other incidents come to depict a similar attitude of disregard for the ecology of the area. On an online forum about Moieciu, there was a cry of outrage when someone posted photos of adult diapers and syringes that had been found dumped in a mountain stream. The source was not hard to identify, as in the village there was only one guesthouse that hosted groups of elderly people from nursing homes. Another time, according to the mayor, a truck full of trash was unloaded on top of a hill and later everything was scattered by the wind into the valley and village below. Driving all terrain vehicles (ATVs) through the forest is one other negative example of ÔusingÕ nature. A few of the guesthouses offer rental services for ATVs, although this practice seems to be the subject of much critique given the noise and the safety hazards involved.
Admittedly, these stories might only relate to a minority who, wanting to save the costs of waste disposal, act in complete disregard for the ideas of ÔenvironmentÕ or Ôpristine natureÕ. However, the fact that such acts keep occurring and they are being tolerated by the community and by the local authorities, suggests that a clean river and trash-free scenery do not rank at the top of localsÕ environmental sensibilities. It is telling to contrast this apparent indifference with the care and concern that people show for their fields. On the one hand, we have features like the river and the ÔsceneryÕ, that have aesthetic value in the economy of tourism, while on the other hand there are elements of the environment like the hay meadows that are safeguarded because they are crucial to the farming economy.
Overall villagers in Bran and Moieciu show a weak sense of community and by this I refer to a shared understanding of what are their common resources and the corresponding practice of caring for, defending and promoting these assets. The most
striking example is that of the poor infrastructure: Moieciu has no sewage system and the roads are very bad with potholes that make driving difficult and slow, and sometimes even damage vehicles. Obviously, tourists are not happy to find such roads and I even read online accounts of people claiming they will not be returning to Moieciu again because of this problem. Although I heard many locals decry the destruction or inaccessibility of collective goods such as the roads, the river, the mountain paths, or the cămin cultural Ð former community centre, now in ruin Ð as a group they are voiceless and they take no steps towards changing things. This attitude is not particular to Bran or Moieciu and the same lack of concern for Ôcollective goodsÕ of the village has been noted and discussed in other parts of rural Romania (Mihăilescu 2000: 16) and, as I have shown earlier in this section, it is a transformation brought by the socialist period.