FUENTES DE INFORMACIÓN

A bound buttonhole has two fabric welts that meet at the opening. This buttonhole is sewn in two separate steps: the first step finishes the buttonhole on the right side of the garment, and the second step finishes it on the inside or facing side. There are various methods for making bound

fabricated in silk chiffon, this Valentino blouse from the mid-1980s has a double placket to accommodate a close-fitting underblouse and a pleated overblouse. The underblouse is closely fitted and fastens with a zipper. The overblouse fastens with small chiffon- covered snaps that allow it to drape softly.

buttonholes, but those described here are used most often in couture.

The welts for a bound buttonhole can be cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain, or the bias. They can be sewn from self-fabric, contrasting fabric, braid, or piping.

In home-sewing and ready-to-wear production, bound buttonholes are made on the garment section before the garment is assembled. In couture, the button locations and even the buttonhole size may not be finally decided until after the sections are sewn together and the garment’s finished length is determined. If the garment is just basted

together, the bastings are removed so the right front can be laid flat and the buttonholes sewn. If the garment is already machine stitched, it is somewhat more cumbersome, but the buttonholes can be completed.

Patch method. Well-suited for fabrics that ravel, the patch method is suitable for lightweight and medium-weight fabrics. It’s generally not appropriate for fabrics with patterns that need to be matched. Although welts sewn from a bias-cut patch are easier to shape, the patch can also be cut on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. Most are made from self-fabric, but they can be a contrast.

1. For each buttonhole, cut a patch 2 in. wide and 1½ in. longer than the finished buttonhole.

2. Wrong sides together, fold the patch in half lengthwise. Press the folded edge. Stretch the fold

when pressing so the welts will maintain their shape on the finished buttonhole.

3. Right sides together, pin the patch to the garment with the folded edge aligned with and centered on the thread traced placement line. Using short stitches, baste the patch at the center along the foldline, beginning and ending 1_{⁄2 in. beyond the}

buttonhole ends. Baste the stitching lines precisely.

4. Set the machine stitch length to 15 stitches per inch—or even a shorter stitch length when working on lightweight fabric.

5. Interfacing side up, stitch the basted rectangle around the buttonhole, beginning at its center. When you have stitched around the buttonhole and reached the beginning, overlap two to three stitches. Stitch all the buttonholes, and then check to be sure all rectangles are perfect and identical.

6. Interfacing side up, cut the buttonhole, beginning at the center, clip toward the ends. Stop 1_{⁄4 in. away from the ends, and carefully clip}

diagonally into each corner. Press.

7. Wrong side up, turn the patch through the slash; pull the ends of the patch back so you can see the seam at each end. Press each end carefully.

8. Right side up, wrap the patch around the long, raw edges of the opening to form the welts; pin in the well of the seams. If the welts are too wide, unpin the buttonhole and trim the raw edges of the opening. Repeat the process until the welts just meet.

9. Using short diagonal stitches, baste the welts together; press lightly.

10. Using a fine needle and stabstitches, secure the welts permanently in the well of the seams. If the buttonhole is to be corded, thread the cord into a tapestry needle and run it through the welts.

11. Machine stitch the triangles at the ends. Right side up, fold the edge back exposing the triangle and welts. Give the triangle and welt ends a sharp tug; then using short machine stitches, stitch once across the base of the triangle. The line of stitches will be slightly bowed at each end to catch the corners.

12. Round the corners of the patch and trim the edges.

The buttonholes and covered buttons on this hanae Mori design from the 1970s have been meticulously matched to the fabric pattern on the garment section. (Photo by Author.)

13. Remove all bastings. Wrong side up, place the buttonhole on a soft, spongy pad or towel; press.

14. After the facing or lining is set, finish the back of the buttonhole as described on p. 94.

Strip method. The strip method for making bound buttonholes can be used on many different fabrics of various weights—including those that ravel—and it’s also a good method when you’re matching plaids and stripes.

For each buttonhole, cut two strips on the lengthwise grain 2 in. wide and 1 in. longer than the finished buttonhole. When matching fabric patterns, cut the strips crosswise so the fabric patterns match at the stitching line. Prepare and sew the strips for the buttonhole opening as explained in the instructions for making a bound pocket on p. 166. Complete the back of the buttonhole as described on p. 94.