DEFECT INDICATOR CAUSES
Too dense Textural Main foam was under- or over-whipped.
Components were folded in too far, to the point that all the air was knocked out.
Streaks Visual and textural—looks
like marble
Components were not folded in all the way and there is not a homogenous mix.
Visible gelatin particles throughout
Visual and textural Gelatin was not completely melted before combining with other ingredients.
Gelatin was added to a cold component (such as whipped cream) very slowly and it set on contact.
Icy Visual and textural Frozen item was left uncovered and condensation accumulated on the item’s surface, turning into ice—this can also cause the dessert to have a dried-out look when the ice around it thaws.
Fold the aerated base into the remaining ingredients as soon as it is ready, to take advantage of its maximum volume.
While aerated still-frozen desserts have a longer shelf life than machine-churned and pacotized fro-zen desserts (approximately 72 hours in a −10°C / 14°F freezer), it is important to take the necessary steps to prevent freezer burn, frost formation, and
“freezer taste.” Keep these items covered at all times. It’s a good idea to keep them in a parch-ment paper~lined hotel pan with a Lexan plastic cover that must be kept on at all times (except, of course, when it is time to plate them). Depending on how many covers your establishment serves every day, break down the fi nished products into groups of ten, maximum. This way, the remaining desserts will be kept covered for a longer period of time, and exposure to higher temperatures, moisture, and condensation (which will result in frost formation directly on the dessert) will be signifi cantly reduced.
Temper the desserts for at least 5 to 7 min-utes before serving them, so that they will still be frozen, but easier to eat and cut with a fork or spoon, and any frost that may have formed on the surface will melt.
These desserts are almost always fi nished ahead of time. Compared to machine-churned or pacotized frozen desserts, which need to be scooped (or, better, quenelled) à la minute, these are 95 percent ready to go by the time you are ready to plate; all you need to add is the garnish (if desired). And melting is not a tremendous concern, because aerated still-frozen desserts will hold their shape for much longer than an ice cream or sorbet would, even those that contain stabilizers. They don’t puddle when they thaw, and they can melt completely and still hold their shape thanks to their very stable foams. They may not be frozen, but they will hold their shape.
Notes on aerated still-frozen desserts and the recipes in this book:
•
• They are all manufactured and used within generally accepted defi nitions and techniques (based on their original defi nitions).
•
• They are determined by their ingredients and not the vessels in which they are traditionally frozen. A frozen souffl é may be used as an insert in an entremet; a parfait may be cut out of a frame and plated as a “stand-alone” dessert.
•
• Whenever the recipe contains egg yolks, egg whites, or heavy cream, they will always require foaming. They are never used in their liquid state.
•
• The preferred peak for heavy cream is medium-stiff. Stiff peaks are not recom-mended since they may not incorporate smoothly with other ingredients because they are too stiff. And because of the excessive folding required to obtain a homogenous mass, the foam will defl ate and lose signifi cant volume.
•
• Remember to review the proper foaming procedures on page 91, as well as the specifi c foaming methods for each type of ingredi-ent (egg yolks, egg whites, and heavy cream) before you proceed with a recipe. Understand the methods and the reasoning behind what makes them work (or not work).
•
• If a recipe calls for chocolate, it will always be melted and incorporated with a foam when the chocolate is at room temperature.
Aerated still-frozen desserts are excellent for entremets (as the main body or as an insert), for a few reasons:
•
• They do not need to be churned to be piped into an entremet or insert mold.
•
• They are more fl uid than an ice cream or sorbet, so air pocket formation inside the entremet mold is easier to control.
•
• They stand up better to heat shock.
Reserving and Use During Service
THIS CHAPTER IS A COLLECTION OF SOME OF MY FAVORITE RECIPES, not only for frozen desserts, but also for the other components that are served with them. Mix and match these components as you see fi t, but don’t forget that while some fl avors marry well together, others won’t, so use your better judgment. When in doubt, just ask yourself: “Would I eat this?” “Will my customers like this?” “Would I pay for this?” Always stick to what you like and be honest with yourself.
These recipes have been tested and used in restaurant situations and they work very well. In order for them to work for you, please make sure to read the recipe and instructions before you get started. They are meant for real-world scenarios, and they include all of the information that you will need to produce these items successfully.
Finally, don’t forget to use the highest-quality ingredients you can fi nd (and afford); you owe it to your customers.