Patternmaking
One of the first steps in producing a design is to create the patterns from which your samples will be made. It is critical to find good talent at this stage of production. A great patternmaker will pinpoint problems in the design, construction process, and materials. In fact, a great patternmaker can reach celebrity status among designers. Nicholas Caito, after gaining extensive experience at Lanvin and Rochas, is praised for bringing the technical craftsmanship of Milan and Paris to America. Elle magazine calls him ―New York‘s most in-demand patternmaker,‖1and his fortunate clients include
Peter Som, Proenza Schouler, and Hermes.
Designer Marni Joy says, ―Finding a great patternmaker is one of the most important parts of the design process. I found someone early on whom I completely trusted and who did an amazing job. I left her because of cost, but I was back the following season realizing that it was worth the cost to avoid problems later on."2
An expert pattern is the foundation of a good product. Most importantly, it determines fit, which is one of the most common reasons that items don‘t sell. Signature items that help put many designers on the map, such as the Chaiken pant or the Shoshanna swimsuit, are the results of a great pattern.
Who should make the patterns? You don‘t have to hire a patternmaker if you can do it yourself.
Many new designers learn patternmaking in design school; some even teach themselves. Making your own patterns will save substantial money and give you control. It can help you to interpret your design as well as possible and to manage alterations and turnaround time.
However, it‘s critical that you really have the skills to do an expert job, or you will make mistakes and waste time and money fixing the production. Factory managers have told designers that they won‘t work with their self-made patterns anymore because the mistakes cause time delays at the factory. Even if you are extremely deft at patterns, they are time consuming, and as your company grows, you may have to outsource this task to focus on other aspects of the business.
If you don‘t make patterns, I still highly advise that you acquire a basic understanding of patternmaking. The knowledge will help you better understand construction and fit, better communicate with patternmakers and other contractors, and pinpoint and understand problems. A designer can be at the mercy of pattern-makers if he doesn‘t speak the language. The patternmaker can blame problems with the pattern on the fabric or design, and the designer won‘t know the difference.
Where to find a patternmaker. The best way to find a patternmaker is through personal referrals
from people in the industry. However, designers are often protective of their best resources and will not always share. Ask contractors or factories if they can recommend someone. Contact the fashion schools and see if they will refer you to alumni in the field or even to current students who have strong patternmaking skills.
If you know patternmakers who work for large companies, discreetly ask them if they do freelance work or if they know anyone who does. But keep in mind that this person has a full-time job and your work will come last.
Services, such as Infomat and Fashiondex, have websites, publications, and referral services to patternmakers and other contractors. Industry papers, such as WWD and California Apparel News, sometimes list pattern services in their classified sections. Don‘t be limited by geography since email and the Internet make it possible to work with patternmakers from afar.
You get what you pay for. Good patternmakers are expensive, but money spent here can save
considerable money later on. Most designers are willing to spend whatever is necessary for good patterns and will make their budget cutbacks elsewhere.
Generally, patternmakers charge by the piece and by the complexity and amount of detail in the garment. Others charge an hourly rate and will provide an estimate of the number of hours required once they understand the garment. The more complex the pattern or garment, the more time it takes, and the more it will cost. Pricing can vary widely among different patternmakers and services and different areas of the country. Jackets fit into one price range, from $250 to $450, while skirt patterns usually cost less, from $100 to $200. Generally, the patternmaker will require a deposit before beginning work.
Confirm that the patternmaker will make revisions if you don‘t like the final sample. Revisions should be included in the price if something is wrong with the pattern, but if you change the design based on the final sample, you will have to pay for the new pattern.
Communicate clearly. Before the patternmaker can begin, the designer must know exactly how the
finished garment should look, including the details of shape and fit down to pocket placement. Both patternmakers and factories tell stories of designers with ideas that are impossible to make, and designers are often frustrated when shown a sample that is nothing like what they envisioned.
Sketches of the front and back of the garment, technical drawings, and detailed specification sheets are valuable tools to communicate the measurements for the garment, such as the width of the pant leg at the hem, and sewing details, including specific types of seams, spacing between pleats, size of pockets, special linings, and placement of trims.
Another option is to show the patternmaker a garment with similar attributes, in a similar fabric, to help explain what you want. One designer who works for a large fashion brand says he never bothers making patterns from scratch; he just goes to Gap and buys a similar item to use as a starting pattern.
The most important thing is to have a clear conversation with the patternmaker. While communicating, be sure to listen to this person‘s advice and feedback. The patternmaker can suggest improvements and help you avoid problems in the design and save money in production. Often new
designers want a design in a fabric that just won‘t support the garment or fit correctly. A patternmaker can point this out up front before you waste time and money.
Tips and Considerations When Hiring a Patternmaker by Sally Beers (www.pattern-design.com)
• Think about what kind of patternmaker you want. Are you creating a new, innovative line or one that is more classic?
• Do you want your patternmaker to set your standards, fit, and body specs? How serious are you about creating or maintaining your own proprietary fit?
• What services do you need the patternmaker to complete? Do you just need the first patterns, or do you want her to do production patterns, specs, cutting directions, and grading?
• Look for a patternmaker with appropriate expertise (for example, if you design coats, he should have coat experience), but don‘t be completely limited by his experience. You may hit it off with a bathing suit patternmaker who is versatile.
• Ask her if she prefers draping or flat patternmaking and why. A good patternmaker should be proficient in draping.
• Find a patternmaker with manual skills, rather than just computer skills, and ask how many years he‘s been doing it. It can take 10 to 20 years to become proficient at manual patternmaking. • Ideally, a patternmaker should understand the entire production process to create patterns that will result in good garments that fit.
• What is your budget for a patternmaker? You should be able to find a good one for $50 to $75 per hour. I recommend a budget for patterns between $500 and $1,000 per new style. Versions of existing styles might cost less, but this is a good rule of thumb for a professional pattern that is production-ready.
• You can ask for a set price for an entire collection of patterns. For example, you can tell her you have $5,000 and need to complete 10 to 12 styles and see if she can commit to your budget. • Ask him for a time estimate for the pattern. If you want a quick first pattern or drape, it usually takes between four and eight hours, depending on the complexity. I recommend setting aside three months •to develop a small line, especially if the patternmaker is to establish the fit and sizing for you.
• Find out whom she has worked with before and ask to see examples of her past patterns, as well as samples made from them. Try her out with one style to evaluate her work.
• Make sure he considers his clients‘ work proprietary. Would he share another company‘s slopers? Does he start from scratch when developing new client slopers? Would he sign a noncompete agreement?