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LA TRANSFERENCIA POR EL NIVEL DE APRENDIZAJE ORIGINAL:

In document UNIVERSIDAD DE GRANADA (página 117-129)

3.3. LA TRANSFERENCIA DE LA PRÁCTICA EN EL APRENDIZAJE

3.3.1. LA TRANSFERENCIA POR EL NIVEL DE APRENDIZAJE ORIGINAL:

I don’t know what to put here because I haven’t learned this game yet myself. I’ve only glanced at section two of the Basic Set, and it does a much better job of explaining the more advanced parts of the game than I could ever do. This is pretty much the section where I store any non-character creation trivia about the game that I could put together from the first section of the Basic Set, which is pretty much just whatever I decided I would leave for later from the introduction of this guide. This is going to be a lot shorter than it ought to be, but I am just not well equipped enough to provide any other decent information.

- Death, Dying and Negative HP

When your current HP drops below one of the milestones listed below (relative to your base HP), several things may happen:

1/3rd HP: Halve your Basic Move and Dodge. Basic Speed is not affected.

0 HP or less: When your turn starts, make an HT check at a -1 for every full multiple of your base HP that you are below 0 by. If your HP is 10, you would have a -1 penalty at -10 HP, a -2 penalty at -20, and so on. If you succeed, you may act normally but must make this roll again at every turn (unless you choose to do nothing) until you fail the check or your HP becomes 1 or higher. Failing the check means that you fall unconscious.

-1xHP or less: Immediately make an HT check or die. Failure by a margin of 2 or less means you’re dying, but not dead. You do not have to make this roll again until your HP drops down another negative multiple of your base health. You’re still conscious if you still have not failed an HT check, but you must keep making those checks at a -1 penalty as per the above description.

-5xHP or less: You die.

-10xHP or less: Killed in whatever spectacular and gore-drenched fashion the player or GM cares to describe.

- Rolling a Critical

Your critical range always includes a roll of 3 for success and a roll of 18 for failure, no matter what it is that you’re doing or how good you are at it. 4 and 17 are also criticals, but they sometimes just mean a regular (but always guaranteed) success or failure regardless of skill.

5 and 6 can also be critical successes if the rollers effective skill (or target number) that they’re rolling against is 15 or 16+, which can be thought of as 10 degrees of success or more despite that the maximum roll for critical success is 6.

Critical failure has no such limit; failure by 10 degrees or more is always a critical failure (unless it’s a 3 or 4, in which case it’s actually a critical success despite all odds!). If the

effective skill is 6, critical failure occurs on a roll of 16 or higher instead of on just 17 and 18. At 5 effective skill, this range becomes 15 or higher. This goes all the way down to -15 effective skill, where every roll but a 3 or 4 is a critical failure.

If the only way to make or fail a particular check would be to roll a critical, then some special rules apply. When the roller’s target number is 16 or higher a roll of 17 is not a critical failure, just a normal failure. It doesn’t matter how high their skill is, a 17 always fails. It’s not a spectacular failure though, that’s what their high amount of skill helped to avoid. Likewise, when the roller’s target number is 4 or below, a roll of 4 is just a normal success, and can sometimes be described as just barely scraping by; some fluke completely outside the control of the character was the reason success was possible at all. There’s always some kind of reward for rolling a 3 or a 4, it’s not just something like “the bomb didn’t explode in your face, try again.” A roll of 4 succeeds; something good always happens on a success. A response like that would be more appropriate for someone who rolled a 17 when their effective skill was 16 or higher.

If the expert with 16 or higher effective skill had rolled an 18 however, then that bomb definitely explodes. Against all odds, most likely as a result of something that is completely beyond their control, the worst possible scenario occurs. Even if what they were dealing with had nothing to do with bombs, something is going to explode in their face. Something very bad always occurs on a roll of 18. The GM should not be afraid to be absolutely ruthless about the result; this is not the standard critical failure that you would see on a roll of 1 on a d20, which has a 5% chance of occurring on every roll. An 18 occurs once every 200 rolls on average, or 0.5% of the time. Death would not be out of the question! If an 18 happens on a roll to parry, block, or dodge, then the defender might have to roll for unconsciousness or even death despite what HP they were at.

That’s what happens on an 18 for anybody, but critical failures on other rolls aren’t nearly as bad. They’re still pretty bad (something bad should always happen), but usually this roll is your typical “natural 1” on a d20: you pull a muscle; drop your weapon, etc. It’s a result that can turn the tide of a battle, but never something that decides it (that’s what an 18 is supposed to do!). Remember that a critical failure is different from a normal failure and that a normal failure is different from a critical one. This may seem redundant, but a normal failure should never be any more complex than “it doesn’t work.” That’s the worst thing that a normal failure can ever do. A critical failure must be more than that, but not quite to the extent that a roll

of 18 can do. The GM will figure it out! Someone that critically failed their defense might be at a penalty to attack the next turn, or maybe they fell over! If a critical failure is made for an attack roll, take a look at page 556 of the Basic Set… You get to roll to determine the effect!

Similarly, a critical success is a normal success, but it also has some other bonus effect.

On a check for a skill such as Engineer, a critical success might mean that the design is especially efficient and requires fewer resources to build or maintain. For a defense roll, you might be able to dodge into an advantageous position that gives you a +2 to hit on your next turn or +2 to defend against any other attacks made against you that turn. For a critical attack roll (critical hit) your opponent doesn’t even get a chance to defend against it, so you

automatically hit them. You also get to roll again for any of the effects listed on page 556 of the Basic Set; one such effect is doing triple damage!

A roll of 3 is the best case scenario, no matter who you are or what you’re doing. If this was made during or at the beginning of a series of checks, you automatically succeed the rest of them (an 18 would have failed them all!). Additionally, something spectacularly lucky happens that is completely outside of the expectations the character had in mind for what they were trying to do. Someone trying to get out of the way of a massive explosion would not only take no damage whatsoever even when a normal success would have done half damage, but the weapon that had been knocked out of their hand earlier comes skittering across the floor from the force of the explosion and stops right next to them, completely intact. Against every single odd, they profit from a situation that would have been a loss for anyone else. If a 3 is rolled to hit for an attack, it not only bypasses the enemy defense and rolls on the critical hit table on page 556 of the Basic Set, but it also automatically rolls 6 for all of the damage dice for the attack. It’s also assumed that the attack lands wherever it would be the most inconvenient for the target, but the most convenient for you. If your effective skill was astoundingly low, even into negative integers, a roll of 3 would still allow you to succeed with the maximum effect.

- Advanced Combat

Most rules that have to do with cloaks, shields, and fencing will have very little impact on the game we will be playing. Our game will mostly be shooting blasters and dodging any return fire. Attempts at melee combat would just be responded to with Parthian shots until a bolt lands, followed by more blaster shots that would be even harder to dodge after the first shot (if you’re still standing, that is).

The rules about combat begin on page 362 of the Basic Set. Go and read them if you want, but you’re probably never going to need to know most of those rules for this campaign. I will be providing everything I know about how ranged combat works for this section of the guide.

A basic outline of how general combat works can be found in the introductory section of this guide.

On the next 10 pages is a list of all labeled blaster and ion weapons that might be seen throughout the course of this campaign. The various labels spread across the table will be explained below it. I’ve put it on every page so that you don’t have to scroll back up every time.

- Damage

The damage (in dice) inflicted on a successful blow before modifiers from DR apply.

o Armor Divisor

The number in parenthesis is the armor divisor. Divide the target’s DR by this number before calculating the damage negated by DR.

o Type

The properties of the damage dealt by the attack, which are listed after the armor divisor (if any) and are denoted as follows:

 Burning (burn)

Deals 1x damage (damage is unchanged) after DR negation to all targets that don’t otherwise specify a

different modifier for Burning-type damage. This kind of damage does not cause flames to ignite on flammable targets (e.g. curtains, wood), but can ignite particularly heat sensitive materials (e.g. gasoline). This is specified mostly to better visualize the nature of the injury. Blood from this kind of wound is rare since it is immediately cauterized.

 Impaling (imp)

Deals 2x damage (doubles) after DR negation to all targets that don’t otherwise specify a different modifier for Impaling-type damage. This kind of damage causes

massive bleeding and deep wounds that can rupture vitals.

These injuries are much larger than typical bullet wounds and frequently over-penetrate; passing through the target to possibly hit multiple others before stopping completely.

 Surge (sur)

The attack produces an electrical surge or pulse that can disable electronics or anything with the Electrical disadvantage, which includes a number of blaster

weapons and non-combat droids (though some combat droids have vulnerable electrical parts). This isn’t a

damage type in its own right, but it always accompanies at least one other. It is assumed that this only affects objects that are directly targeted by the attack, so if a blaster bolt strikes your body then you can assume that your blaster will still work just fine. If your blaster gets shot right out of your hand however, it’s probably busted. This has no effect if the damage is completely negated by DR.

 Affliction (aff)

This attack deals 1d3 Burning-type damage with an armor divisor of (1). Any damage that makes it past DR has the Surge modifier (see above). Whether or not any damage penetrates, the target must make an HT roll at a -4 penalty plus half the DR on the location struck (this secondary hit has an armor divisor of its own: (2) unless otherwise specified). On a failure, the target is physically and mentally stunned. They may then roll against HT every turn at the same penalty (but without the DR bonus) to recover. In addition to this, droids also take damage directly to their HT (the primary attribute, not HP) equal to the penalty specified by the modifier listed by HT for the respective weapon (an ion pistol would be -3). This damage is in combination with the 1d3 Burning-type

damage to HP. The droid still must roll for stunning, but the HT damage is still applied whether the HT check succeeds or fails (the droid must make the roll with the new HT total, -4 penalty still applies). HT lost in this way can only be regained through extensive maintenance and replacement of fried components. If the droid’s HT ever drops below 0, then it is completely scrapped and every electrical

component that was a part of it becomes worthless and unusable. Repairing it is impossible and far less practical than just building/buying/”finding” a new one.

o Or

This weapon (AKA an “Omni-Weapon”) has a secondary firing mode that has a different damage formula as well as other range values and properties.

Only one mode can be active at a time, but switching between these modes is a free action. Both use the same ammo types unless otherwise specified.

There’s something next to the damage of ion weapons that says “(1 yard)” but I am unsure as to what that means. It might be that that is the maximum range it can stun at, but it does not specify; it could just as well be for the damage to HT on a droid. I assume that the burning and droid damage are unaffected by this “1 yard” range and instead use the normal one.

- Accuracy (Acc)

Accuracy gives you a bonus to weapon skill equal to whatever the weapon has listed under Acc, but only if you took an Aim maneuver on the previous turn or, if applicable, have the Gunslinger advantage. The accuracy listed by a particular weapon also represents the

maximum possible accuracy bonus that can be gained from the accumulation of all attached upgrades for that weapon (e.g. if your 3 Acc Holdout Blaster has a padded grip that gives +1 when aiming and a scope that gives +4 when aiming, you get a +3 bonus, not +5). That same 3 Acc Holdout Blaster with all of its upgrades has a +6 bonus in total as a result.

If a weapon’s Acc has a + and another number by it, that means the weapon comes with a built-in scope or aiming device upon purchase (removal of this aim-assist device takes this bonus away but allows additional upgrades to take effect if they would surpass the base Acc).

That same 3 Acc Holdout Blaster with all of its upgrades installed would look like 3+3 Acc upon purchase.

After this, you can further increase the bonus you get from aiming by bracing your weapon. This entails resting your two handed weapon on a low wall, table, windowsill, etc. It’s also possible to brace a weapon by using a bipod and lying prone. For one handed weapons like pistols, it’s considered braced if you are using two hands to aim. This gives +1 to hit.

In order to Aim, you must declare what your target is (it must be visible to you) and which weapon you’re aiming at it with. Aiming is a full turn maneuver, so you may do no actions other than free ones if they would be considered as something that would not take away from your concentration. You can fire it on the next turn for a +1 bonus, or you can choose to use an Aim maneuver again and fire on the next turn for a +2 bonus. You can keep using Aim on the third turn for a +3 bonus to hit for the next turn, but more Aim maneuvers after this would just retain the +3 bonus without adding anything else. If you are attacked while aiming you may choose to defend, but doing so automatically ruins your Aim and any accumulated benefits. If you are injured while aiming then you must make a Will roll or lose your Aim. The only way to move while aiming is by making no more than a single step per turn. You can’t move at all if your weapon is braced on something other than yourself.

- Range

The numbers listed under this section of the table denote the range (in yards) at which the attack starts to do only half of its original damage on the left side of the slash and the

maximum range on the right side of it. If there’s just one number, there is no half-damage range and this is just the maximum distance. Any range between 0 and the half-damage range is the distance the weapon’s projectile can travel and still do full damage.

- Weight

The weight for any given weapon on the table is listed in pounds (lbs.) and accounts for the weight of an energy cell. Beyond the slash is the type of energy cell needed in order to power the weapon, and the number too if it needs more than one. The weight of these cells is not specified. “Dp” is a portable D-cell, usually in the form of a backpack.

- Rate of Fire (RoF)

This is the amount of shots a particular weapon can fire in one round of combat. If you have a weapon that can fire more than one shot per round, you must specify how many times you are shooting that round before making the attack roll. You only roll to attack once. For every degree of success you make it over your effective weapon skill, an extra hit lands (rolling right on your score would be 1 hit in total, rolling 1 under it would be 2 hits, rolling 2 under it would be 3 hits, etc.). You cannot fire more shots than what your energy cell has left for in its remaining charge, for obvious reasons.

- Shots

The value listed in this part of the table represents how many shots you can make with a fully charged energy cell before needing to replace it. The number in parenthesis (it’s 3 for all of the weapons up there) next to it is how many 1 second Ready maneuvers (which is essentially an entire turn) it takes to eject the dead cell (turn 1), retrieve a new cell from somewhere, usually on your person (turn 2), insert the new cell (turn 3).

A successful Fast-Draw skill check can make the retrieval of a new cell not an issue, so you can reload by spending 2 turns instead of 3. A failed Fast-Draw check means you drop the cell and/or fumble around with it for long enough to waste your entire turn, but you still didn’t manage to retrieve the cell on this turn and it is not in your hand, so you’re not putting it in your blaster on the next turn (you can try another Fast-Draw check on the next turn to possibly do both at the same time, however). You need to get another cell before you can move on to step 3 and finish loading your weapon.

As long as the dead cell has been ejected, you can delay your other two Ready

maneuvers since your blaster remains empty. You need two free hands in order to eject the cell (you can probably do it with one but it would take a long time in combat), so you can’t just hold the fresh cell in your hand prior and have it ready to go once the dead one is ejected; that’s

maneuvers since your blaster remains empty. You need two free hands in order to eject the cell (you can probably do it with one but it would take a long time in combat), so you can’t just hold the fresh cell in your hand prior and have it ready to go once the dead one is ejected; that’s

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