colorful history, with invasions by the Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, French, and lastly, in the 18th century, the British, who introduced the Friesian cow.
Records show that Mahón was traded around the Mediterranean from about the 13th century.
However, it owes its international reputation to the local merchants who, in the late 1800s, started taking the farmers’ cheese in exchange for goods. Known as recogedor-afinador (“gatherer-ripener”), they ripened the young cheeses in underground caves where the airflow, temperature, and humidity provided the cheese with a unique microclimate. This practice continues, with about 300 family-owned dairy farms selling their milk to the big cooperatives.
Today, the best-known afinador is Nicolás Cardona.
TASTING NOTES At 20–60 days it is supple, buttery. and mild; semi-cured at 2–5 months, the flavor increases and the texture becomes firmer; cured, or añejo, at 5–10 months, it is hard and slightly granular, not unlike Parmigiano-Reggiano (see pp128–129), and has an aroma and taste of peaches with a sea-salt finish.
Green-labeled Mahón is made by hand from raw milk on small farms and finished by an afinador, whose skill is to bring out the best in each cheese. The harder, more piquant style with its red label and bright orange rind is made in cooperatives and has an unexpectedly sharp, mouth-puckering bite.
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally served as an appetizer, drizzled with olive oil and topped with a sprig of fresh rosemary. Serve it alongside a glass of sherry, which brings out the personality of the cheese. However, like all hard cheeses, it is extremely versatile and is used in many recipes, from the Spanish omelet to tapas and pastries. The more matured or cured Mahón pairs well with beer or even sake (Japanese
rice wine). THE RACKS The cheeses are stored on wooden racks in underground caves where the afinador carefully controls the temperature, humidity, and flow of fresh air.
A CLOSER LOOK
Mahón is lovingly nurtured and matured by the skillful afinadores who buy the generic young cheeses and age them according to their own individual methods.
Port of Mahón, Menorca, from which the cheese takes its name.
SPAIN Menorca, Balearic Islands Age 20 days–10 months Weight and Shape 3lb 4oz (1.5kg), square cushion
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow
Classification Hard Producer Various
Interior
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SPAIN
CLOTH PRESSING The young artisanal cheese is wrapped in cloth (fogasser) and tied by its corners. This is pressed manually, forcing out excess whey and forming the cheese into its distinctive cushion shape.
All aged Mahón is speckled with small, irregular holes, caused by the fermentation that happens as the cheese ripens.
The upper surface of matured artisanal Mahón bears the pattern of the creases and folds of the fogasser.
The ocher-yellow color of the rind is created not by bacteria but by rubbing butter, paprika, and olive oil into the rind to enhance its appearance and prevent mold.
Exterior
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Garrotxa
One of the new generation of Spanish artisan cheeses to come to prominence in recent years, this is notable for its subtle goaty flavor and dark gray velveteen rind, or pell florida. First produced in 1981 by a single maker, Garrotxa is now made by several other artisan cheesemakers in the region.
TASTING NOTES A fresh slice, unusually chalky for Spanish cheese, invokes memories of mountain herbs, walnuts, and mushrooms; the lingering finish has distinct creamy overtones of goat.
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for tapas or at the end of a meal, served with almonds, walnuts, and a robust white Priorat.
Herreño
Similar cheeses are produced all over these rugged islands under the various island names, but this one has the most interesting texture and flavor. When smoked, there are beautiful burnished lines on the rind from the racking.
TASTING NOTES It is bright white and refreshingly acidic when young, while smoked Herreño is a satisfying balance of light smoke, usually fig or prickly pear branches, and delicate flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY When young, it pairs well with white and rosé wines; aged, it is better with red wines. Excellent lightly melted and served with red or green mojo sauces or in the local cheesecake.
Ibérico
Imprinted with the marks of the woven-basket mold, Ibérico is a blend of cow’s, goat’s, and ewe’s milk, typical of many traditional Spanish cheeses, and makes up more than 50 percent of the nation’s consumption of cheese.
TASTING NOTES The rind is often colored to indicate age, and the blend of milks brings together the best of each one:
creamy and mellow from the cow, sweet and nutty from the ewe, and herbaceous notes from the goat.
HOW TO ENJOY The flavor changes subtly with the seasons, but Ibérico is always delicious in a toasted sandwich or used for a gratin, whatever time of year.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha and Castilla y León Age 1 month minimum
Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz (1–31⁄2kg), drum
Size D. 31⁄2–81⁄2in (9–22cm), H. 3–5in (7–12cm)
Milk Cow, goat, and ewe Classification Hard Producer Various SPAIN El Hierro, Islas Canarias
Age 10–60 days
Weight and Shape 12oz–8lb 13oz (350g–4kg), cylinder
Size D. 31⁄2–10in (8.5–25.5cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (6–8.5cm) Milk Goat, cow, and ewe Classification Semi-soft
Producer Sociedad Cooperativa Ganaderos de El Hierro; Valverde
SPAIN Cataluña Age 2–4 months
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round Size D. 6in (15cm), 3in (H. 7cm) Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Producer Various
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