FALTAS MUY GRAVES
10. MATRIZ DE ACTIVIDADES
If you are using the quick lining method, there is no need to create a lining pattern; simply use the vest pattern to cut the lining the same as the outer vest
layer, making allowances for turn of cloth as you sew.
If you are using the classic lining method, the lining pattern will vary according to the vest's shape and type of hem. On some vests the lower edge may come to a point, while on others it may curve toward the side seam or be straight. On vests with contour edges, the front facing is often combined with a hem facing. To create a classic vest lining pattern, position the front facing pattern beneath the front vest pattern, lining up the outer edges, and draw the lining cutting line 1 Y4 in. from the facing's inner edge. When the hem facing measures an equal distance from the bottom cutting line across the lower edge to the front facing, cut the lining length to be the same as the vest cutting length. An example of this is the curved front facing (see the illustration on the facing page) . In this case, squaring the inside curve of the facing makes it easier to install the lining. Do this by using a ruler or an L square to mark the square inside corner, then cutting away the inside curve.
On a pointed vest, the hem facing may also be a consistent width from the bottom edge. If so, mark the lining cutting length the same as the vest cutting length. Sometimes the hem facing is a different size at the side seam than near the front
facings. In this case, measure the distance between the hem facing's inner edge and the hem cutting line at the side seam, then cut the lining length the same distance from the facing's inner edge across to the front facing (see the illustration below).
To simplify construction,
eliminate any armhole facings by bringing the lining to the armhole edge. If the vest has a back neck facing, position the facing under the back vest pattern, lining up the neck edge, and mark the lining cutting line
1 Y4 in. from the facing's inner edge. Cut the lining length % in. below the finished vest length, and add a back pleat when
Vest with front facing and back neck (classic lining method)
Center back fold
1
in. Vest hemline Facing edge2'/2
in. %in.Lining cutting line
Mark the lining cutting line
1 '/4
in. from the facing edge at the front and back neck facing.Alternate vest back without a back neck facing Add a I -in. center back pleat. Place on fold. Center back fold Lining cutli ng line Back
Princess seam vest lined to the edge (quick lining method)
Side front
Vest hemline
%in.
Cut the lining pieces the same as the vest pieces. Make adjustments for turn of cloth as you sew.
cutting by placing the center back 1 in. in from the folded lining fabric. If the vest does not have a back neck facing, cut the back lining the same as the vest back, making the back pleat and length adjustments only (see the top illustration at left).
The vest front may have a hem allowance instead of a hem facing. In this case, the vest front lining adjustment is the same as the basic jacket front lining adjustment but omits the shoulder slope change.
Vests with princess seams may be lined to the edge using the quick lining method (see the bottom illustration at left) or lined using the classic method, whereby the facings are retained (see the top illustration on the facing page). The front pattern also serves as a front facing pattern, so cut four fronts out of vest fabric and use one pair as the facings. Adjust the side front, side back, and back patterns by making the lining cutting length % in. longer than the finished vest length. Also add the center back pleat to the back lining by cut ting 1 in. in from the fabric fold. Another lining option that you see in men's vests uses the classic lining for the vest front in combination with a self-lined back. In this case, use the classic lining adjustment for the front
Princess seam vest with front facing (classic lining method) Add a 1 -in. center back pleat. Place on fold. Center back fold Hemline %in. Side back Side front
Lining cutting line Lining cutting line
vest lining and cut the back lining the same as the vest back using a %-in. hem allowance (see the illustration at right).
Constructing
and Inserting
a Vest Lining
Alternate vest back for self-lining
Center back fold or seam
Lining cutting line
Cut from the fashion fabric to use as facings.
Hemline
%in.
The following instructions allow for variations in the design of the vest you are sewing. The vest may have one or all of the details depending on the complexity of the design, so follow just the steps that apply to the vest you are sewing.
Cut the outside and inside layers the same and with a %-in. hem allowance.
For a quick lining connect the vest front to the vest back at the shoulders only. The vest lining is assembled the same way as the vest.
Sew the vest and lining front and neck edges together with right sides facing.