Molecular design, synthesis and characterization of a series of cationic silicon(IV) phthalocyanine photosensitizers

Don’t expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state, this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced out of business although a few of these canteens have survived and, aside from offering an interesting diversion for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat lots in return for a handful of coins. Value is value wherever you are. Queue up at the counter, peruse the choice of soups, meat and veg on offer before placing your order, then watch in awe as matronly ladies serve up everything from budget excellence to bowls of slime. One tip is to go earlier as the choice and quality in some tends to fall as the day progresses.

BAR MLECZNY FAMILIJNY

QC‑3, ul. Nowy Świat 39, MNowy Świat‑

Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79. Open 07:00 ‑ 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 ‑ 17:00. (3‑13zł). U­G­S MLECZARNIA JEROZOLIMSKA

Also at ul. Emilii Plater 47 (B-4), ul. Bagatela 15, ul. Sienna 63, and ul. Nowowiejska 6.QC‑4, Al. Jerozolimskie 32, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34, www.

mleczarniajerozolimska.pl. Open 09:00 ‑ 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 ‑ 19:00. (4‑20zł). G­S

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Restaurants

cake with chestnuts (with dishes changing almost daily, your menu will undoubtedly be different). Count us as impressed that Amaro himself can be seen serving many of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside Łazienki Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies (children under 14 years of age are not allowed any day).QG‑4, ul.

Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628 57 47, www.atelieramaro.

pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 14:30, 18:00 ‑ 22:30; Mon, Tue, Sat 18:00

‑ 22:30. Closed Sun. U­G­W BELVEDERE

Nestled inside Łazienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside and out. Having undergone a head to toe renovation, the Belvedere is a stunningly dramatic venue with peacocks wandering the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service. The food lives up to the atmosphere, and a menu overhaul means you’ll have a variety of new dishes to choose from. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume a booking here means something big is in order.QG‑5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel.

(+48) 22 558 67 01, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00

‑ 23:00, Sun 12:00 ‑ 18:00. (29‑220zł). G­W CUD MIÓD

Cud Miód is certainly keen on having something for everyone. The interior is a mix of rustic Polish/European elements with some modern style fittings and the entrance area is taken up with their Italian market style deli section, so try not to trip over the crates and boxes littering the floor. The menu is an odd mix; a host of traditionally based Polish dishes, Mediterranean offerings, seafood, fusion, burgers and even curry pops up on the list. A casual and attractive venue particularly suited to those who can peruse this type of menu and not change their minds every 30 seconds!QB‑4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 630 30 39, www.cudmiod.pl. Open 08:00

‑ 24:00, Fri 08:00 ‑ 01:00, Sat 09:00 ‑ 01:00, Sun 09:00 ‑ 23:00. (31‑76zł). T­6­U­G­B­S­W

CZERWONY WIEPRZ

Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it.

Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis and boxing champ Lennox Lewis), 2012 saw

‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club.

QE‑2, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00. (29‑

69zł). T­U­G­B­S­W

52 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com inviting than the first. The pristine interiors correspond perfectly to the carefully manicured menu of Polish classics - emphasis on ‘class.’ The goose liver mousse with fruits and hot blackberry jam is a clear standout, as are the wild game mains with extra points for the sumptuous saddle of venison served with plum dumplings and cherry sauce.

Simply extravagant.QH‑3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00. (33‑98zł). T­G­S­W

ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI

When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already thought of this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier you can try over 250 vodkas from around Poland and the globe;

the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’

distillers, designer vodkas, flavoured vodkas and culminates in the staggeringly priced “Młody Ziemniak 2009”(480zl a pop!). The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary takes on Polish classics with a “food pairing” system which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish.

An Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QB‑2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.

domwodki.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00. (39‑66zł). G­B­S­

W FLORIAN

Transport yourself back to the 19th century and gorge yourself on traditional Polish fare. The pastel coloured rooms on the ground floor are bedecked with antiques, paintings, all forms of dried flora and various bits and bobs.

Luckily, Florian manages to stay just the right side of being overly stuffed with such decorative items, making it an ideal place to savour dishes from both their ‘Water’ (fish and other lighter fare) and ‘Fire’ (spicier dishes) menus. If you are looking for a bit more privacy they also have an 18 person VIP room. The attic “pub” is warm and welcoming with a 300 year old fireplace hearth, which doubles as a bread and gourmet smalec station. The building itself is quite interesting, having been originally built by General Wilhelm Mier as a barracks for the Szwoleżerów guard way back in the early 18th century.QA‑3, ul. Chłodna 3, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 620 93 98, www.florian.pl. Open 11:00

‑ 23:00. (18‑55zł). T­Y­X­W FOLK GOSPODA

Far from promising on the outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice of traditional Poland. It’s inside a rugged interior of stout furnishings and ceramic pots you’ll find boys and girls in peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying Polish food (think heaps of duck). Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside Gospoda, and that’s never more so than when the band strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners. Be sure to check out the wild Polish trout, an eco-friendly dish that will have your shirt buttons pinging DAWNE SMAKI

It’s great to find a traditional Polish restaurant amongst the endless string of international eateries on Nowy Świat.

Dawne Smaki thrives on old style Polish cooking, so get ready to sample a comprehensive range of home-grown specialities. The whole spectrum is pretty much covered, from the basics like herrings in oil, pig’s trotters in aspic, potato cakes and pierogi, right up to some high class mains like loin of venison and hand chopped steak tartare.

Although a rather fearsome looking fresh water based predator may not be on your list of priorities, pike has always been popular throughout Poland’s culinary history; the more adventurous should try Dawne Smaki’s version, which comes fried and served in a light creamy sauce with crayfish.

Find Kasztelan and Grimbergen beers on tap, plus live music every night and “theme” nights starting at 20:00. Private parties can rent a VIP space too.QC‑3, ul. Nowy Świat 49, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 465 83 20, www.

dawnesmaki.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 ‑ 01:00, Sun 12:00 ‑ 22:00. (19‑95zł). T­6­U­E­G­B­W DEKAGRAM

With a huge number of restaurants in town playing high jinks with traditional Polish cuisine by adding fusion and contemporary touches in order to boot it into the 21st century, one can start to wonder whether the country’s cuisine can hold its own without all that messing around?

Well, Dekagram proves it can. Purists in the best sense of the word, this is the place to enjoy real Polish dishes.

Classics like pierogi, schabowy and country-style soups are prepared and cooked to perfection, making one reassess the hearty cooking that Poland should be wholeheartedly applauded for. The stylish inter-war period interior feels just right with it’s lovely Thonet bentwood chairs and classy white tablecloths. Try out their soup and main lunch specials for only 20zł from Mon-Fri 11:30 - 16:00.QF‑4, ul.

Emilii Plater 9/11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 29 29, www.restauracjadekagram.pl. Open 11:00 ‑ 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 ‑ 22:00. (28‑67zł). T­6­G­B­S­W DOM POLSKI

Much ink has been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaw’s millionaires’ row you can expect Rolls Royce service from the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of starters and several main courses to choose from; how it should be, in other words. We went for the żurek followed by the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar and couldn’t fault a thing.QH‑3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616 24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.

pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00. (33‑98zł). T­G­S­W DOM POLSKI BELWEDERSKA

This is the second location of one of Warsaw’s most venerable, trusted and exclusive Polish restaurants.

Achieving the seemingly impossible, they’ve succeeded in making their second outing even more elegant and

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Restaurants

off in no time. On weekends the restaurant thoughtfully employs a kids corner with child minders from 13:00 - 17:00 so you can properly focus on your food. They also offer 15% off all take away orders.QA‑3, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 890 16 05, www.

folkgospoda.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 23:00. (29‑69zł). T­U­

I­G­B­S­W GAR JAKUBIAKA

Out moves one celebrity chef, Magda Gessler and in moves another, Tomek Jakubiak. Gessler’s cluttered interior has gone and the restaurant automatically appears to have doubled in size (including a seasonal garden). The casual, bistro-like atmosphere is regularly crowded with fans of the Jamie Oliver-esque and amiable Mr. Jakubiak, who paces the floor chatting with his devotees. His take on hearty and rustic style international dishes, plus some hit or miss curious experiments (brine tomato soup = miss) and a constantly changing menu, keeps customers on their toes and coming back to check out what he’s going to pull out of the pot next. Can get pretty boisterous and noisy.QB‑3, ul.

Jasna 10 (corner of ul. Sienkiewicza), MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 26 05, www.gar.com.pl. Open 12:00

‑ 23:00, Sat 12:00 ‑ 24:00, Sun 12:00 ‑ 22:00. (16‑68zł).

6­U­G­B­S­W

HALKA RESTAURACJA PO POLSKU

Named after one of Poland’s best loved operas, Halka takes its name and culinary mission seriously. Having relocated to a new location, the design has been painstakingly replicated to mimic a 19th century country manor, a clear nod to Stanisław Moniuszko’s popular script. The new dining room is a bit brighter and light but is still dripping with elegance and lordly touches. The superb menu is still upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite what the well-done interior might suggest, they even have a children’s corner.QG‑5, ul. Puławska 43, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 509 59 33 05, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Open 12:00 ‑ 22:00. (22‑55zł). T­G­S­W

KUCHNIA WARSZAWSKA

Located on the first floor of the Logos Hotel, a cold war period oddity filled with the character of that era, Kuchnia Warszawska is a brilliantly hidden away gem serving classics of Warsaw cuisine. The restaurant interior has been tastefully refitted and the pale colour scheme makes it all wonderfully airy and fresh. Considering the extremely reasonable prices, the elegant, friendly and professional staff, excellent local dishes and attention to detail (the steak tartar is minced fresh table side by one of their Chefs), these guys are seriously punching above their weight. For an added surprise, ask to see the private hire room - a full on and original, late 1960’s PRL meeting room with amazing views of the Vistula Riverbank.QG‑2, Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 31/33, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 730 77 89 22, www.kuchnia‑

warszawska.pl. Open 06:30 ‑ 22:00. Lunch is served Mon‑Fri 12:00 ‑ 16:00 for 20zł. (16‑45zł). T­6­U­E­

G­S­W