Motor

Griot

Cubes of pork are marinated in a dressing of sour orange, onions, and garlic and then deep-fried. The dish is often served during festivals.

Fried Plantains

Ripe plantains are cut into slices, fried in oil, and smashed a bit after cooking to soften them. They are served with a side dish of pikliz, a spicy pickle made from carrots and cabbage.

Corn

Mayi , creole for corn, is boiled or made into akasan , a sweet thick drink made from milk, corn flour, and spices that may be drunk hot or cold, especially at breakfast.

Nearly every Latin American and Caribbean country has its own version, since corn originated in the region. Another nutritious dish is cornmeal mush ( mayi moulen ) cooked with kidney beans, coconut, and peppers.

Colleen Taylor Sen

Further Reading

Yurnet-Thomas, Mirta. A Taste of Haiti. New York: Hippocrene Books, 2002.

Hong Kong and Macau

Hong Kong

Hong Kong ( Chinese : for „fragrant harbor‰) is a city state on the south coast of China enclosed by the Pearl River Delta and the South China Sea. It is one of two special administrative regions of the PeopleÊs Republic of China, the other being Macau. With a population of 7 million people in an area of 426 square miles, Hong Kong is one of the worldÊs most densely populated areas. Its population is 95 per-cent ethnic Chinese, mainly from neighboring Guangdong province. The British made Hong Kong a colony after the First Opium War (1839ă42) and later extended its territory to Kowloon and the New Territories. It was returned to Chinese sov-ereignty in 1997 but has autonomy in most matters except foreign relations and military defense. Hong Kong citizens have the worldÊs second longest life expec-tancy·perhaps a tribute to its fabulous variety of food ranging from street food to international haute cuisine.

Though operating on Hong Kong for hundreds of years, many food stalls re-mained unlicensed until after World War II, when the government issued licenses to the families of deceased civil servants. These so-called dai pai or big licenses led

158 | Hong Kong and Macau

to so many small street stands that traffic was soon disrupted. Traffic problems, plus concerns about hygiene, led the government to limit such licensure. This old-age trade has also been threatened by property developers. In 1980s, the government started buying back the licenses to control and regulate the spread of street ven-dors in Hong Kong. Today a few of the old-style food stalls (called dai pai dong ) remain.

Because today many street-food vendors in Hong Kong operate out of perma-nent buildings, the perceived safety of this food is much higher than it might be in other countries; thus, these vendors serve tourists as readily as locals. Many vendors offer large tables for use by the general public, and itÊs common to share a table with strangers. Patrons can also order items from different stalls: noodles from one and drinks from another. Moreover, Hong Kong has a large number of restaurants, many of which offer street seating. Unlike the street markets in many other Southeast Asian cities, these seating arrangements in Hong Kong make the bustling markets seem somehow less hectic.

Though there are smaller pockets throughout the booming metropolis, street markets in Hong Kong are largely collected into three major areas.

Ć Temple Street Market. This is basically a night market that comes alive as the sun goes down. It is popular among tourists, and many of the vendors op-erate out of permanent structures.

Ć TsimShaTsui on Haiphong Road in the Kowloon Peninsula. Here street food is sold amidst fashionable boutiques offering glamorous clothing and electronics.

Ć Mongkok. Known as the „ladies market,‰ it not only specializes in womenÊs wear, but also has a sizable and wonderful market in prepared foods.

Because many vendors at Hong KongÊs major markets operate out of permanent structures, they have the flexibility to prepare food in a number of different ways, including wok- and deep-frying, open grill, and stove top. This also means that they are likely to have hot and cold running water and other amenities that meet Western expectations regarding sanitation.

Major Street Foods

Hong Kong has been a trade center for many centuries, and its central location in Asia made it very attractive to the British, who won the territory in concessions granted by the Chinese after the Opium Wars. Now, this central location ben-efits lovers of street food by allowing them to sample products that arrive from all over Asia.

Hong Kong and Macau | 159

Egg Waffles ( Gai Daan Tsai )

Somewhat surprisingly, waffles have become a very popular street food in Hong Kong.

Made from egg, evaporated milk, flour, and sugar, these Asian waffles are unlike the dimpled flapjacks found throughout the West; instead, these simple pastries are of semispherical shapes, a little smaller than golf balls, that are cooked in a custom-made waffle iron and look like an upside-down egg carton. Often a waffle maker has three or four skillets steaming away at the same time. Because they are relatively bland, they may be dressed with sweet sauces or honey as well as hot sauces.

Seafood

Given Hong KongÊs location, itÊs not surprising that seafood has a major presence at street markets. Squid and octopus are especially popular, with different items more prevalent in specific markets. For instance, in the Temple Market, crab is a big seller, offered by many large restaurants with street-side seating and frequently served with a heavy complement of garlic and hot chilies. Often prices are not pub-lished, and the price of menu items sees sometimes based on the whim of the server, so bargaining may be in order.

Noodles

Noodles are popular in Hong Kong, and because theyÊre usually eaten in a bowl, many street-side restaurants serve a wide range of noodle preparations, sometimes

Waffles being sold on the street in Hong Kong. (Courtesy of David Hammond)

160 | Hong Kong and Macau

fried and topped with meat, fish, or vegetables; steamed; or added to soups. Some common noodle preparations include

Ć Wonton noodle soup with beef brisket, a very hearty bowl Ć Fish ball noodle soup, which is lighter and in no way fishy

Ć BBQ pork noodle soup combines AsiaÊs favorite animal with what is cer-tainly one of AsiaÊs favorite starches (second only to rice)

Balls

One logical way of using the meat of an animal or fish is to grind it up, shape it into balls, and string several on a stick. Stick-mounting makes these balls very easy to eat while walking on the street.

Congee

Though not an ideal street food to eat while walking, congee is served at most Hong Kong markets, especially by vendors that offer seating. Congee is a porridge made of grains such as rice, cornmeal, millet, barley, and sorghum and is eaten with sweet or spicy condiments, such as fresh crab, fish, 100-year-old eggs, fermented bean curd, or chicken with ginseng. Its easy digestibility is very good for the stomach, especially after eating more adventurous foods.

Other Street Foods Offal

As is the case at markets throughout Southeast Asia, Hong Kong markets sell a lot of offal, frequently grilled. Mongkok has several stands selling pig intestine deep-fried to a chewiness that somewhat minimizes the funky taste, though a blast of hot sauce definitely helps.

Dim Sum

Though popular in Hong Kong, dim sum, the small dumplings with a huge range of fillings, are seen only sporadically in markets. Because such items require steaming immediately before serving and are consequently quite hot, they are best enjoyed sitting at a table.

Fried Chicken

Often at the Mongkok market, the longest line is for a fried chicken vendor. Such a fried food item is ideal for small vendors who lack seating; itÊs very easy to eat a piece of fried chicken while walking through the market.

Hong Kong and Macau | 161

Pretzel Preparations

Many vendors offer „pretzel fish,‰ „pretzel pork chop,‰ and other items that may not actually contain any pretzels in the Western sense of the word. Rather, the word pretzel seems to refer to a light brown breading that contains neither pretzel nor salt.

Vegetables

Though not as flashy as grilled and skewered food items, many stalls that sell meat or fish also offer fried eggplant and peppers, which add color to street food and can provide a healthy balance to what might otherwise be rather rich fare.

Many times, however, the vegetables are breaded and fried, mitigating the health benefits.

David Hammond

Further Reading

Best Hong Kong Street Food: http://www.venere.com/blog/hong-kong-street-food/

Hong Kong Street Food: http://www.travelbyfood.com/streetfoodhongkong1.php Street Food, Hong Kong: http://www.streetfood.com.au/2012/04/hong-kong-mong-kok-coffee-shop.html

Macau (Macao)

Macau, also spelled Macao, is located on the western side of the Pearl River Delta across from Hong Kong. Like Hong Kong, it is one of the two special adminis-trative regions of the PeopleÊs Republic of China. A former Portuguese colony, it was administered by Portugal from the mid-16th century until 1999 when it was transferred back to China. Its economy is heavily dependent on casino gambling and tourism. The 30 square km area consists of a peninsula and two small islands.

MacauÊs cuisine is a blend of Portuguese and Chinese influences. The basis is Portuguese, especially stews, enhanced by local ingredients. The territory has not only many restaurants and cafes but also a vibrant street-food life in the cityÊs mar-kets. Along the beachfront, many sell fresh seafood including prawns, squid, scal-lops, and abalone that is grilled or deep-fried. An extremely popular specialty is jerky made from dried smoked beef, pork, or chicken.

Major Street Foods Curry Fish Balls

A favorite in Hong Kong as well, these are deep-fried balls of ground fish served in a sauce made of soy sauce and curry powder. The balls can also be made of crab meat, fish mixed with cheese, or meat.

162 | Hungary

Portuguese Egg Tart

Sold in bakeries and street stalls, Portuguese egg tart ( pastel de nata ) is a small baked pastry tart filled with egg custard. Popular in Portugal and former Portu-guese colonies, they were invented more than 200 years ago by Catholic nuns in Portugal.

Pork Chop Bun

Probably the most famous Macau street food, this consists of a bun that is crisp outside and soft inside filled with a freshly fried pork chop.

Colleen Taylor Sen

Further Reading

Hamilton, Cherie Y. Cuisines of Portuguese Encounters. New York: Hippo-crene, 2008.

Hungary

The Republic of Hungary is a landlocked Central European country that borders on Romania, Ukraine, Austria, Croatia, Serbia, Slovenia, and Slovakia. It has a popu-lation of 10 million, about one-fifth of whom live in the capital Budapest, and an area of 36,000 square miles. Much of the country consists of flat to rolling plains and low mountains. Though Hungary is blessed with fertile soil and is a major ag-ricultural producer, the cuisine is dominated by meat, especially pork.

Hungarian is a language unrelated to its neighbors, but its culture is fully inte-grated with Central Europe. For centuries, it was part of the Hapsburg dominions, later called the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Hungarian chefs and bakers influenced the Imperial capital, Vienna, and in turn the Hungarian capital, Budapest, mirrored the culture of the Empire. Hungarian cuisine remains one of the most influential in CentralăEastern Europe. Hungarian wines are world famous, and gulyás (goulash) and paprika are the countryÊs best-known contributions to world cuisine. However, Hungarian street food is much more diverse.

Street food is sold at tourist places such as squares, fortresses, bridges and parks, and also at seasonal fairs and festivals, where vendors sell dried fruits, seeds and nuts, popcorn, vattacukor (cotton candy), roasted chestnuts and potatoes, forró bor (mulled wine), and traditional pickled vegetables (gherkins, onions, peppers, etc.) sold by the piece from large vats and barrels filled with salty and sour brine.

A remnant from the Communist era are the mini-markets/groceries with street en-trances that sell fruits, vegetables, drinks, nuts and seeds, dry sausages, cheese, and breads.

Hungary | 163

Major Street Foods