Precios de los servicios deportivos

Of all the best tools for guitar making, an electric bending iron is right up there at the top of the list. The reason for this is the fact that a reliable, controllable, and consistent method of regulating bending temperature means more successfully bent sides and less broken and wasted wood. These tools sell for more than some power tools in many cases, and the really cheap units have a long list of short comings. Having a quality iron will make a difference in the shop, making this project well worth the time it takes to make it.

The unit that will be described here is a 110v, 500 watt side bending iron, with pipe that has a 6" smooth area for bending. This size will be large enough for even the widest of side pieces, and the 2" diameter is also big enough for the larger curves on the lower bout.

In places other than the United States, there are options for purchasing a cartridge heater in a different voltage, which can easily be adapted to function in other outlet styles. The only difference in construction will be which cartridge heater is placed in the unit, the rheostat, and the style of plug attached. Being that this unit was built for use in America, the directions here will all be for 110v.

A housing made from MDF will be the support for the pipe, as well as housing the controls which consist of a rheostat with an on/off switch built in. Rheostat is a fancy word for dimmer switch, and they work on heating elements as well as lights.

Since some people like to use a bending iron in the upright position, and some prefer the unit to be laid horizontally. The base can accommodate both, and is easily clamped to the bench either way. The holes in the sides are meant for clamping holds as well as for ventilation of the heat that will seep through the bottom of the pipe during use.

A laundry list of supplies will be required to make the electric bender, though many of these may already be in the shop. The main item that makes everything work is called a cartridge heater, and these will typically have to be purchased online.

A cartridge heater can be seen in the lower left corner of the picture above, and looks like a metal rod with a pair of insulated wires coming out of the back end. These are sold in several different voltage and wattage configurations, and are fairly inexpensive if bought from overseas. Most of the store bought units run on a 200 watt element, and that is the minimum wattage that should be purchased for this project.

The model in the picture is a 110v 500 watt element, which was purchased because it will only need to be ran at 1/2 power to generate the heat required to bend wood. The rheostat can reduce the total output to 10% at the minimum, so it can be ran through a very large range depending on what temperature is needed. Also, running the unit at a lower than maximum heat will lengthen the life of the element by not asking it to run at full power constantly.

Good places to look for cartridge heaters are in stores like Grainger, which depending on whether there is a location in town, the piece may be right there waiting to be bought. Less expensive units can be found online through Amazon, and will ship from China directly. This will take a few weeks, and it is a good idea to order a couple of them just in case one does not work or gets damaged while making the bender.

Finally, the size of the cartridge heater is important as well, and should be 6" long, which matches the length of the pipe being used on the iron itself. The diameter is not as important, though a larger unit will make filling the pipe easier once that step is reached. The units in the picture are 1/2" in diameter, though a larger diameter will work just as well. Again, buy two of them if ordering from overseas just in case.

The bending iron will be made from a piece of 2" diameter steel pipe that is 8"

long and threaded on both ends. They are sold like this in the plumbing section of most hardware stores, or one can be cut and threaded on site in some cases. A 2" pipe cap will also be needed, as well as a metal base flange. These three pieces will be assembled to make the body of the iron, in which the heating element will reside.

The cartridge heater will work the best if it is touching metal on all sides while operating, so a method of filling the pipe is needed. A roll of aluminum flashing, which is sold in the roofing section typically, can be used for this purpose. One roll that is 6" wide and 25' long will be needed, and will fill the pipe nicely.

For the electronic controls, a rheostat with an on/off switch built in, and an appliance replacement power cord are also needed. Since this will be a higher wattage appliance, purchase a well made and heavier gauge power cord, which is designed to be a replacement for a household appliance. It will have two conductors and a ground, all three of which will be wired appropriately later on. The rheostat, or dimmer switch can be found in electrical, and only needs to be rated for at least the same wattage as the cartridge heater. These are fairly inexpensive, and a more costly unit does not mean that it will necessarily be any better than the cheap one. As long

as the wattage listing is correct based on the cartridge heater, the unit is fine. While there, purchase a cover plate for the rheostat that is made from metal since it will be screwed to the housing and plastic covers may crack.

The base itself will be made from 3/4" thick MDF, which is heat and fire resistant, as well as heavy duty enough to support the forces involved in bending wood. A piece that is 2' x 2' will provide enough material with some pieces left over for scrap.

As far as odds and ends go, the following items that are not already in the shop will need to be picked up. Wire nuts to make the wiring connections under the unit, JB Weld, 1-1/2"

coarse threaded wood screws (buy a box, they can always be used for something), four 1/4-20 screws that are 2" long and nuts, and a 3/4" dowel rod which will be used to roll the flashing into a tight coil.

Other than the above mentioned items, the regular list of shop tools will be used.

Items like the drill press or hand drill, table saw or band saw, drill bits, rulers, pencils, and other little things that are probably already in the shop.

The first step is to use a rag and wipe down all the metal pieces with a little naphtha or another solvent to remove all the grease. Also, if there is a large piece of tape that held the price tag in place, remove all the tape and residue as well. The pipe needs to be completely free from any contaminants before using it to bend wood, otherwise these things will be transferred to the wood, causing stains that in many cases cannot be removed. Once the pieces are wiped down, test fit the flange and cap to make sure they can be screwed on and off easily, and they do not bind up. Do not screw them so tightly that they cannot be removed as this is only a test to see that the pieces were manufactured correctly and fit well.

If the cartridge heater were placed in the pipe as seen in the picture above, it would have very little effect. This is because there is so much air space between the unit and the walls of the pipe. The bottom may get very hot, but the top will not. Also, cartridge heaters require contact around their edges to transfer the heat away from the unit and prevent overheating. In order to decrease the open space, aluminum flashing will be used.

Carefully open the roll of flashing by cutting the tape and the stickers that keep it coiled together. Using a tin snips, cut through the aluminum after the stickers and tape, removing them from the roll. A clamp can be used to hold the flashing and keep it from coming uncoiled, which is important for the next few steps. Also, cut off about 5' from the end of the roll, which will help it fit inside the end of the pipe better when coiled.

Working with metal flashing is dangerous, and safety precautions should not be overlooked. The coil of flashing is like a giant spring that is tensioned and ready to expand rapidly. When this happens unexpectedly, the razor thin edges can slice through skin quickly, requiring stitches in many cases. It is absolutely important to prepare for the next few steps by wearing some safety gear.

The coil of aluminum will need to be wound very tightly and compactly in order to be inserted into the metal pipe. This will reduce the interior diameter and leave a small space for the heating element. In doing so, the coil will have a large amount of potential energy waiting to

spring loose in a catastrophic fashion. It is mandatory that long sleeves, thick gloves, a heavy shop apron, and a face shield are worn while handling and coiling the flashing. Failure to do so can result in serious injury to the hands, arms or face.

For a little extra leverage when coiling the flashing, use an 18" long piece of 3/4"

dowel rod, that is split down the middle on the band saw. This will allow the flashing to be sandwiched between the pieces while the aluminum is cranked into a very tight coil.

Unroll a few feet of flashing and replace the clamp that keeps it from uncoiling.

Place the end of the flashing between the dowel halves, and hold them together. The ends of the dowel can be taped together to help the rolling process, though they will turn just fine without it.

Fold over the flashing right where it meets the edge of the dowel, making a L shaped bend in the metal. This will prevent the end from coming loose while the flashing is being rolled.

Begin rolling the flashing around the dowel rod as tightly as possible. Do not worry if some expansion happens from time to time during the rolling, as it will need to be further coiled later in the process anyway. The goal of this first coiling is to get the flashing down to at least half the diameter that it was when bought in the store. At that point it can be clamped in a vise and worked on from there.

As more and more flashing is taken up, remove the clamp and allow more to uncoil.

Let out a few feet at a time, making sure not to let it come out too rapidly.

Any time there is fatigue in the forearms, place the coil and the dowel in a front vise to keep it from coming unrolled again. Breaks will need to be taken fairly often throughout this process, and it will not be easily done the first time unless the hands and forearms are very strong. Clamp the piece in the vise after every few feet are rolled, conserving energy for the final coiling that is coming up.

The point of all this rolling is to reduce the outside diameter of the coil so that it can fit inside the pipe. Once inside, the metal will expand, filling up all the available space, and creating a larger contact area for the cartridge heater.

Once the coil has been fully rolled around the dowel, clamp it in the front vise and take a break that is well earned. Those who are only reading this will not truly understand how difficult this is, but those who are taking that break right now will.

The piece can now be worked completely inside the vise, which will make holding it and coiling the aluminum a shade easier. While locked in the vise, start cranking the dowel again, tightening the coil of aluminum. When the break starts to get close to the edge, tighten the vise a little bit to prevent the coil from coming loose and flapping around. Repeat this process until the aluminum is wound tightly around the dowel, and cannot be cranked any farther. When this has been accomplished, tighten the vise to prevent the spool from coming loose.

Pick up the pipe and place it over the end of the coil, easing it inside. The dowel may need to be removed while in the vise or the top portion cut off in order to get the pipe over the flashing without having to remove it from the vise. Do not remove the flashing from the vise before trying to get it inside the pipe because it will unroll just enough to be too large a diameter to fit. Once the pipe is over the top at least half way, the vise can be opened up which will cause the flashing to expand to fit the pipe. At this point the flashing in the center will have loosened enough to remove the dowel. Remove it, and discard it because it will not be needed anymore.

Press the flashing the rest of the way into the pipe, and then lightly tap the end of the pipe on the bench or the floor a few times. This will even out the flashing inside the pipe so that the ends are pretty close to flat. Once this happens, the piece can be pushed into the pipe further, where it will be JB welded into place.

The coil will need to be pushed down into the pipe so that the whole mass resides under the smooth part of the pipe. Press from either end, using a piece of wood to keep the flashing even as well as move it down the pipe. The flashing will only need to be pushed past the threads, and then evened out with the piece of wood for the edges to be straight.

If the edges are not totally even, this is not a huge issue. The important thing is that the 6" of coil resides under the 6" of flat area of the pipe for bending, which will be powered by a 6" long cartridge heater. Having the full length of the heater as well as the flashing under the flat part of the pipe will help distribute the heat right where it needs to be.

JB Weld is an automotive and farming product that is used for making cold welds.

Many times, JB weld is used to repair a cracked engine block on a piece of farming equipment, making the unit run like new. It has a working temperature of up to 600 degrees before the bond begins to break down, and is essentially the strongest epoxy on the planet. Since the average working temperature of the electric bending iron will be between 300 and 400 degrees, the product will hold up without any problems.

Mix up equal parts of the steel and hardener on a piece of folded up wax paper.

Use a piece of thin wood to do the mixing, and both the wood and the wax paper can be thrown away after the JB weld has been used.

Coat the inside of the pipe where the steel and the aluminum meet. Spread it on with the piece of wood, making sure to get enough of it in place to make good contact. Fill in a little of the product around the outside half of the flashing, coating the edge to keep the thin metal from moving.

JB Weld will take several hours to set up, and overnight to cure to working strength. Do not turn on the bending iron until at least 24 hours from the time that the JB Weld was applied. Doing so can ruin the curing process, and cause the product not to harden properly. If this happens, the flashing will be able to move around inside the pipe, which can cause the heating element to be moved out of alignment.

The JB Weld will need a couple hours to harden so that the final steps can be performed on the iron. While that is happening, a few other things can be done.

A piece of flashing will go under the base flange, between the control box and the pipe. This will help prevent heat transfer between the pipe and the base, keeping the box from burning. The pipe will still make the wood hot, however this will help to prevent any actual burning or smoke.

Cut out a length of flashing from the roll that fits under the flange, and trace around it with a scribe. Make a strong mark that will be easy to see when cutting it out.

Cut out the disc that will go under the flange using a tin snips. Carefully cut following the scribed line, making smooth and even cuts all the way around the piece. Throw the excess in the trash, handling it with care to avoid being cut by the sharp edges.

Test fit the flashing to make sure it is not sticking out past the ends of the flange.

Trim any edges that need to be trimmed.

Use an awl to make a mark at the center of each hole in the flange, which will be the guides for drilling.

Using a 5/16" brad point drill bit, drill out all the holes in the flashing, lining each one up carefully before actually drilling through the piece. Use a small piece of wood under the flashing to prevent the drill bit from tearing out the metal.

Mark the center of the flashing by connecting the holes with a ruler.

Then, drill out the center hole with the same drill bit, keeping a piece of wood under the metal to prevent tearing it.

As the JB Weld is hardening, prepare the strips that will need to be inserted into the center of the behind iron to fill the gap left by the flashing. A large number of thin strips varying from 1/2" wide to 1/8" wide will need to be cut off the end of a piece of flashing. Do not worry about getting them to the correct width, only worry about making the cuts as straight as

As the JB Weld is hardening, prepare the strips that will need to be inserted into the center of the behind iron to fill the gap left by the flashing. A large number of thin strips varying from 1/2" wide to 1/8" wide will need to be cut off the end of a piece of flashing. Do not worry about getting them to the correct width, only worry about making the cuts as straight as