Recipe photo appears on page 58
Adding a bay leaf to a poaching liquid is a subtle way to infuse flavor in a variety of items. It is particularly nice with fruit. Poached pears can be a simple or an elegant dessert. For casual gatherings, place the pan of poached pears, with its poaching liquid, on the table and serve directly from the pan. For a more elegant presentation, serve the pear individually, whole or sliced, with some ice cream and chocolate sauce (for a classic poire belle Hélène) or a reduction of the poaching liquid. In the summertime, use cherries, apricots, or plums, but remember that because they are less dense, the poaching time will be less. Poach them just until the fruit is soft, but still holds it shape. Fresh lemon juice, as needed 4 Bosc or Conference pears or 6 seckel pears 1 bottle (750 ml) white wine 2 or 3 bay leaves 1⁄4 of a vanilla bean pod, split 11⁄4 cups (250 g) sugar
Fill a bowl with water and add the lemon juice. Set aside. Use a pairing knife to peel the skin from the pears in a circular motion, as smoothly as possible, leaving the stem intact. Place the peeled pear in the bowl of acidulated water. Repeat for all the pears.
Combine the wine, bay leaves, vanilla, and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the pears. Poach the pears until a knife can easily be inserted into the bottom of the pear, about 20 min- utes. Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Reduce the liquid until it becomes thicker. Return the pears to the reduced liquid. Serve the pears as described above.
Yield: 4 TO 8 servinGs
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Bouquet garNi
Bouquet garni is French for “bouquet of garnishments.” A bouquet garni adds flavor to stews, braises, ragouts,
court-bouillon, soups, and sauces. There are many variations of what constitutes a bouquet garni. This is a classic combination of herbs; common additions include bacon, leeks, winter savory, and celery tops. This particular bouquet garni is excellent in meat braises such a beef bourguignon, coq au vin, winter stews, and vegetarian soups.
1 bay leaf
6 stems of italian parsley
3 sprigs of thyme
Gather the bay, parsley, and thyme and tie together with kitchen string. Use the string to remove the bouquet garni from the dish when cooking is done. Discard.
Yield: 1 BOuqueT GArni
greeN salt ruB
In this rub, bay laurel is combined with a variety of herbs to create a cure that enhances the flavor of various meats before cooking. This rub is inspired by a “green salt” formula used by one of my culinary professors. I use the rub in many preparations, but the woodsy aroma is particularly well suited to game birds such as duck.
1⁄2 cup (120 g) kosher salt
2 bay leaves
2 tablespoons (5 g) thyme leaves
2 tablespoons (12 g) sweet marjoram
1⁄4 cup (15 g) italian parsley leaves
Place the salt and herbs in a mini food processor and pulse to combine. Generally use about 2 teaspoons of green salt per 1 pound (455 g) of meat or 1 to 2 teaspoons per poultry leg. Rub on meat and place in a covered container in the refrigerator as the recipe indicates. Rinse the salt off before cooking. Unused salt can be stored in the refrigerator for a week or two in an airtight container.
Yield: ABOuT 1⁄2 CuP (170 G)
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(Text)
autumN pears poached With Bay
Recipe photo appears on page 58
Adding a bay leaf to a poaching liquid is a subtle way to infuse flavor in a variety of items. It is particularly nice with fruit. Poached pears can be a simple or an elegant dessert. For casual gatherings, place the pan of poached pears, with its poaching liquid, on the table and serve directly from the pan. For a more elegant presentation, serve the pear individually, whole or sliced, with some ice cream and chocolate sauce (for a classic poire belle Hélène) or a reduction of the poaching liquid. In the summertime, use cherries, apricots, or plums, but remember that because they are less dense, the poaching time will be less. Poach them just until the fruit is soft, but still holds it shape. Fresh lemon juice, as needed 4 Bosc or Conference pears or 6 seckel pears 1 bottle (750 ml) white wine 2 or 3 bay leaves 1⁄4 of a vanilla bean pod, split 11⁄4 cups (250 g) sugar
Fill a bowl with water and add the lemon juice. Set aside. Use a pairing knife to peel the skin from the pears in a circular motion, as smoothly as possible, leaving the stem intact. Place the peeled pear in the bowl of acidulated water. Repeat for all the pears.
Combine the wine, bay leaves, vanilla, and sugar in a saucepan over medium heat. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the pears. Poach the pears until a knife can easily be inserted into the bottom of the pear, about 20 min- utes. Remove the pears with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Reduce the liquid until it becomes thicker. Return the pears to the reduced liquid. Serve the pears as described above.
Yield: 4 TO 8 servinGs
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