RESULTADOS “PLAN DE TODOS”

If you do not have access to window screen, any fi ne, stiff mesh can be substituted, including the brass mesh that comes in the GW basing kit.

PVA and Super Glue – The standard adhesives used for attaching materials to the base. Super glue is optional, but highly recommended.

Required Paints – Chaos Black, Codex Grey, Fortress Grey, Scorched Brown, Graveyard Earth

Optional Paints – Bestial Brown, Boltgun Metal, Chaos Black Spray

CONSTRUCTION

1) Using superglue stick a few pieces of rubble to the base. You could use PVA glue for this step, but super glue is much faster.

2) Glue down a few pieces of screen using super glue. Only glue them down along one edge and bend them so that they stick up. Again, PVA glue is an option, but does not hold the screen down as well and takes much longer to dry.

3) Spread PVA glue over the base, but leave most of the sprue and screen uncovered. This is to hold down the fi rst layer of ballast. The base will look best if most of the sprue and screen are sticking out of the smaller rubble.

4) Cover the glue with a layer of medium ballast. Allow the glue to dry completely. 5) Apply a second layer of ballast to ensure an even coverage.

Be certain to build up the second layer around the rubble and base of the screen.

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Do not worry about applying an even second layer; the goal of applying multiple layers is to create an uneven, undulating surface. 6) Apply a third layer of ballast in some areas to make the surface more uneven. This is particularly important around the screen and sprue.

7) Spread a layer of watered-down PVA glue over the entire base to seal it. This ensures that grains of sand will not come off during painting.

8) Let the glue dry completely. Depending on how watery the glue was this may take up to 24 hours. Once you are satisfi ed the glue has dried, the base is ready for painting. PAINTING

1) Prime the base with Chaos Black. I chose to simply apply watered-down paint with a brush, but you could use spray-primer instead.

2) Apply a heavy drybrush of Codex Grey

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3) Lightly drybrush the base with Fortress Grey 4) Paint the base with a very watered-down Chaos Black wash. This step will add contrast to areas where the two layers of drybrushing may have been too heavy. It also adds a darker, dirtier look to the grey. Once the wash is dry you can also re-drybrush certain areas if you think they look too dark.

5) Selectively apply a wash of Scorched Brown. Do not paint the entire base with the brown; the goal is to have an uneven colour. The Scorched Brown will give the base a muddy, dirty look; much dirtier than simply using shades of grey and black would. 6) Gently drybrush the base with Graveyard Earth. This step gives the base the

appearance of having large amounts of dust and dried mud caked on the rubble, adding to the desired dirty appearance.

7) Paint the rim of the base whatever colour you wish. I fi nd that darker colours work best, and should offer some contrast with the fi nal

colours of the base. For this sample I opted to use Scorched Brown, but feel free to use a different colour if you prefer.

The model should be painted to match with the base. By stippling Scorched Brown and Graveyard Earth on the feet, knees, and lower legs of a model you can easily simulate the appearance that your soldiers have been walking through a dirty, dusty, muddy battlefi eld.

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VARIATIONS

Using similar techniques as the ones

described above one can create a large variety of different looking bases. For example, by gluing a layer of screen fl at onto the entire base one can give the appearance that the model is standing on a steel mesh deck -- ideal for models that would typically fi ght indoors (like Necromunda models, or Imperial Navy boarding parties).

As you may have noticed, no special attention was given to the screen and sprue elements of the base above. This was to give the base a uniformly dirty appearance; metal that is caked in dirt will typically not appear to be very shiny. If desired you can drybrush

the screen using Boltgun Metal to give it a metallic appearance. Lightly drybrushing Bestial Brown over the top of the Boltgun Metal can add to the appearance of rusted iron or steel.

This Necromunda Enforcer's base has been painted using the same techniques described above, but instead of gluing down small patches of screen a section of screen was cut to fi t exactly over the top of the base and glued down as a base layer. Sand and sections of sprue were then glued over the top of the screen to give the appearance of a steel grid walkway strewn with rubble. Note that the bits of sprue and screen have been drybrushed with Boltgun Metal before applying any washes or layers of brown, giving the metal a slightly cleaner, less dirt- encrusted appearance.

The addition of elements from the Cities of Death buildings and the GW Urban Basing kit can create dynamic, three-dimensional bases. Small amounts of snow fl ock can add to the character of an army, easily imitating the appearance of snow-strewn ruins. The sand on this base was painted using lighter shades of brown and yellow, giving

By Lefteris F. Gavalas and Chara Lasithiotaki

No one likes to play on an empty tabletop but commercial scenery is very expensive. The best solution is to make some of your own. This might seem a bit daunting at fi rst, but taking it one step at a time it is a very simple process and best of all it will only cost you pennies! STAGE 1

First of all make sure you are working in a suitable space. You will need a lot of room to move around and having a large area where all the cutting can be done is essential, such as a large desk or table. For this fi rst stage the stuff you will need are:

• A pencil to draw on the boards

• hobby knives; a large one for basic cutting and ideally a smaller knife for the details

• a pair of scissors to roughen up the building edges • white glue to put everything together

• a large metal ruler, to guide your cutting

• 2.5mm thick foam board to make the building walls • hard board to make the base

• and optionally you can drink loads of coffee and have a friend help out (while you take all the credit!)

You will now have to make the decision on what you want your

building to look like. You can be creative about this and make all sorts

of buildings using this method (ruined basilicas, tall offi ce blocks etc.). For this article though I wanted to create a ruined tank factory.

As I had to go for a long and thin building I decided that the best dimensions would be 50cm long, 19cm wide and 15cm tall with a base that was 60cm long by 30cm wide. To make it more practical for table top gaming I only included two walls with no ceiling, as this makes it much easier when placing miniatures inside.

Draw the outline of the building onto the foam board using the pencil and ruler. Carefully cut along these lines with the bigger hobby knife. When you have fi nished you should have two walls plus the base.

Add texture to the outside face of the walls and make it easier to manipulate the material by removing the outside layer of paper. Once you have done this you will have the inside layer of foam showing. Do this quite slowly and carefully as you risk breaking the wall and may have to start all over again.