Plataforma de procesamiento Seismic Unix (SU )
4.13. An´ alisis de velocidades
4.13.1. Script-shell para realizar el an´ alisis de veloci- veloci-dadesveloci-dades
layout
Plating
Headers, Cripples,
Trimmers and
Rough Sills
Detailing
Building and
Raising Walls
Plumbing and
lining
Sheathing Walls
LAYOUT
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Rake wall
4/12 pitch
2x6 exterior
wall
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all layout is the process of transferring the floor-plan dimensions to the concrete slab or wooden subfloor of a house, locating exactly where each wall is to be placed. Essentially, it involves taking the architect's floor plan and mak ing a full-sized redrawing on the house floor. In the average house, most layout is quite simple. It con sists of marking a series of lines on the floor to form a series of squares and rectangles. These lines repre sent and locate every wall on the plans. Once the house is framed, the squares and rectangles become bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchens. The floor plan lets the carpenter know the location and size of these rooms.to
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Some carpenters lay out one wall, then plate it, build it and raise it. Then they do the same with the next wall, one wall at a time. Efficient production framers lay out all the walls first, before going on to the next step. Carpenters don't have to work faster or cheat on quality to increase production, they just need to eliminate wasteful movements. Framing a house is hard work. Good framers make their work easier by thinking about what they are doing and how best to do it.
After the floor-plan lines have been transferred to the house floor, 2x4 or 2x6 plates (i.e., the tops and bottoms of walls) will be cut and placed on all the lines (see pp. 7 1 -78). These plates will tie the framed structure together once they are nailed on.
Before beginning to lay out wall locations, study the plans at home. Look at all the pages and mark them up with colored pens (see pp. 1 2- 1 3). For ex ample, use red to note the location and size of all posts and beams, green for tall walls, yellow for win dow sizes. Circle and note everything out of the or dinary, such as walls that need to be framed with different-sized lumber, rake walls and high ceilings. Many buildings these days call for 2x6 exterior walls because they can hold more insulation than the tra ditional 2x4 wall. Thicker walls may also be required in bathrooms to accommodate all the plumbing pipes used for water and drainage. And when building a three-story building, the first floor needs to be built with 2x6 or 3x4 walls to support the added weight from above.
You can lay out an entire house using these simple tools.
Layout tools
Wall layout requires very few tools. You will need a 25-ft. and 50-ft. measuring tape, a chalkline, keel (carpenter's crayon) and an awl. Chalklines, which are available in both 50-ft. and lOO-ft. lengths, are inexpensive tools, and most framers carry several in their tool bucket. You'll need more than one when you're laying out on damp floors. A good chalkline is geared so that it can be reeled in quickly.
Most framers prefer to use cement coloring rather than chalk when laying down lines. Chalk is much finer than cement coloring and requires you to fill the box frequently. Also, with cement coloring, the line can't be washed away easily by rain, as it can with chalk. In production framing, each job is often done by different people, so the layout crew, for ex ample, will use a different color to chalk their lines than the sheathers so as to avoid confusion.
If you have to lay out walls that are longer than your chalkline, a long string (dryline) will help. You can stretch the string the full distance of the wall, then make a series of marks along the string to guide your chalkline.
Keel is used for writing on lumber and comes in various colors. Carpenters usually use red or blue be cause they show up best on lumber. When marking on a freshly poured concrete slab, use white keel be cause other colors will fade.
A sturdy carpenter's awl driven into a wood floor or a new concrete slab can hold one end of a chalk line or measuring tape. You won't be able to drive an awl into an older, cured slab, in which case a weighted-down coffee can will come in handy for holding the chalkline.
An efficient framer will make good use of an awl on a layout job. Stuck in the subfloo,", it can hold one end of a chalkline or measuring tape.
Regular layout
Begin your layout by cleaning up the floor. It's much easier, and safer too, to work on a floor that has been cleaned off. Now take a block the width of the wall (usually 2x4 or 2x6), lay it flush with the outside of the building at each corner and mark on the inside of the block with a carpenter's pencil. If the foundation isn't parallel, make your adjust ments at this point before snapping wall lines (see p. 34). Stretch the chalkline tightly from one corner mark to another and give it a snap by pulling straight up; chalklines that are released at an angle can leave a curved line on the floor. Only one chalk line is needed per wall. This chalkline locates the inside edge of the wall.
Once all the exterior wall lines have been snapped, you can work off them to lay out the inte rior walls. There's nothing complicated about this process. Even though there are many different styles of architecture, the rooms within each style are pret-
The locations for outside wall plates can be marked using a scrap piece of plate stock as a guide. Make sure to hold it flush with the edge before marking. Do this at both ends, then snap a chalkline between the two marks.
ty much the same. A bedroom is still a bedroom. You simply take the dimensions from the plans and transfer them to the floor.
Lay out the longer parallel walls first. Look at the drawing below. On the floor plan, the distance be tween the outside wall and the parallel bedroom wall is 12 ft. 7 in., measured outside to center. The