Sectores de muestreo

The guild of the Zuckerbäckers (confectioners) in Vienna, Austria, was officially rec- ognized in 1744, and was authorized by law to make “biscuits [Pisquiten], zwieback, almond and other sweetmeats, white and colored confections, candy and other [things] made with sugar, and both candied fruit and preserves, and ice cream, jel- lies and other refreshments” (Krondl 2011, 255–56). The confectioners were legally restricted to making sweets with no more than 50 percent flour.

Zuckerbäckers at the time were perennially in dispute with the “fine bakers,” who

made fruit tarts, croissants, enriched yeast breads, and the like, but were not allowed to use jams, preserved fruit, or chocolate, and were to limit their sugar use to the ex- terior, for sprinkling and dusting, and for what was needed for fermentation or color.

Food historian Michael Krondl speculates that these legal flour and sugar limit rules of the Royal House of Hapsburg led to the nut-based pastries and the “dozens of almost flourless Torten that were invented in the second half of the 19th century,” which led to today’s flourless sweet treats.

Krondl, Michael. Sweet Invention: A History of Dessert. Chicago: Chicago Review Press, 2011, 255–56; 276–77.

the classic Austrian Apfel Strudel, or apple strudel, dates back to the Habsburg Empire (1278ă1780). Ever the traditionally elegant pastry, the essential ingredients are apples, ground nuts, raisins, lemon juice and zest, cinnamon, and sugar. Purists place the apple mixture on a sheet of thin, stretched, unleavened dough and roll it, similar to a jellyroll. The „non-purists, or perhaps the more practical bakers, use prepared phyllo dough‰ (McGavin 2013). The proper Viennese strudel is served warm with a dusting of powdered sugar and, usually, with a cup of Viennese coffee. Strudel gained popularity toward the end of the Habsburg Empire. It is related to the Greek pastry baklava , which is no surprise given the interrelationships of coun- tries during the 600-year period of the Ottoman dynasty. As Austria evolved as a country, the cuisine also evolved; regional variations of strudel include fillings of cream cheese ( Topfen ), sour cherries ( Weichselstrudel ), or sweet cherry and poppy seed strudel ( Mohnstrudel ). To save time at home, as mentioned earlier, some make their strudels with commercially produced phyllo dough, and, of course, there are varieties of commercially produced strudels.

Although there is no definitive history of the famous Austrian crescent-shaped sugar cookies, Vanillekipferl , the shape and accompanying legend suggest the in- fluence of the Ottoman Empire, as the Turks used the crescent-shaped symbol extensively. Legend suggests that when the Austro-Hungarian EmpireÊs army de- feated the Turkish army in Vienna in 1683 (the Battle of Vienna), the bakers created the cookies in the half-moon shape that was found on the Turkish flag, suggesting, symbolically, „to devour the enemy.‰ The legend continues that the Turks fled, and serendipitously left behind ViennaÊs first sack of coffee beans, from whence the Viennese coffeehouses were born. Vanillekipferl , also known as Viennese crescent cookies, are traditionally enjoyed at Christmas but are made all year round. As- sociated with Vienna, they are savored not only in Austria but also in neighboring countries, most notably Switzerland, Hungary, and Germany.

Another crescent-shaped sweet treat that historical speculation associates with the 1683 Battle of Vienna is the Jewish delicacy, rugelach , Yiddish for „little twists.‰ The little, delicate, filled, crescent rolls, identified with European Jewish cuisine, are made with dough ingredients similar to those in Vanillekipferl , with the more modern addition of sour cream or cream cheese, or a combination of the two, which results in a lighter, richer pastry. (Sour cream is the more traditional ingredient.) Most often, rugelach are filled with fruits or fruit jams, chocolate, rai- sins, cinnamon, marzipan, poppy seeds, chopped or ground nuts, or any combina- tion thereof. With rugelach , there does not appear to be one original recipe; rather, multiple variations are celebrated on the Jewish holidays of Hanukkah, Shabbat, and Rosh Hashanah, depending on available ingredients. Besides savoring this de- licious delicacy on Jewish holidays, people of all creeds enjoy it year-round.

One of the sweet treats in Austria that is neither a dessert nor a confection, but referred to as a cake, is Kugelhopf ·more bread-like, similar to French brioche,

because it is made with yeast rather than baking soda or baking powder. As with many Austrian sweet treats, Kugelhopf has a story attached to it, and the story is that Viennese-born Marie Antoinette was very fond of Kugelhopf. So fond, in fact, that at the age of 14, she took the recipe with her when she went to France to marry Louis XVI in 1799. Historians believe that Marie Antoinette never did utter, in French, „Let them eat cake,‰ when told about the starving French peasants. If she did utter, „ QuÊils mangent de la brioche ,‰ her words were probably misinterpreted.

Brioce·like Kugelhopf ·is referred to as cake but is more like bread. We will

never really know if the Austrian-born queen said any such phrase at all. It is unlikely, but it makes for a good story.

Typically, Kugelhopf contains raisins, lemon zest, and a garnish of slivered al- monds. Austrians most often serve it as sweet bread at breakfast or brunch, similar to a coffee cake. They bake the Kugelhopf in tall, fluted, tube pans, so the charac- teristic shapes and swirls are obvious, and when turned out of the pan, the bakers dust them with powdered sugar.

Finally, no discourse on Austrian sweets is complete without some attention paid to Mozart chocolates. In Austria, one finds Mozart chocolate, Mozart pra- lines, Mozart balls, Mozart cake, Amadeus cake, Wolfgang cake, and the list goes on. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born in Salzburg, Austria, in 1756. The pro- lific and prominent composer moved to Vienna, where he spent much of his adult life. Mozart is the pride of Salzburg, and anyone who visits this beautiful city will be overwhelmed by the variety of opportunities to hear Mozart music in con- certs and recitals. Equally plentiful are selections of sweet chocolate candies·

Mozartkugeln. Mozart chocolates are known and available all over the world, but

there are two brands that stand apart from the rest·Mirabell and Hofbauer. In Salzburg, Mirabell Mozartkugeln date back to the original Mozart choco- lates, which were handmade in 1890 by confectioner Paul Fürst. He created the chocolate-covered hazelnut nougats to honor SalzburgÊs famous musician, Wolf- gang Amadeus Mozart. The Mirabell confectioners still make the chocolates by hand and without any chemical stabilizers, so they have a limited shelf life. This high standard results in very fine chocolates at some very high prices.

Meanwhile, in Vienna, Hofbauer, one of the finest Viennese confectionaries for well over a century, makes one of the best Mozartkugeln. Hofbauer also makes ex- quisite Mozart pralines. The mass-produced Mozart chocolates·those sold in the United States, for example·are not at all similar to „the real thing.‰ In the world of sweet treats, as in the world of music, Mozart imitators are just that, imitators. Although the imposter manufacturers wrap them to look like the originals, do not be fooled·there is no comparison in taste or price, and, in this case, you get what you pay for.

To be sure, there is a genuine sweet side to the Austrian Alps and that is in their traditional sweet treats. The legendary history, the devoted detail, the exquisite

presentation, and the charming beauty of their creations reflect an ardent cultural appreciation for their desserts, cookies, and candies. For the Austrians, preparation is a ritual to be enjoyed, the presentation is as important as taste, and the savoring of each morsel, each taste, and each small bite is an example to all of us how to celebrate and enjoy not only sweet creations but also life.

Further Reading

Davenport, Marcia. Mozart. New York: Barnes and Noble, 1995.

Fraser, Antonia. Marie Antoinette: The Journey. New York: Doubleday, 2001.

The Kitchen Sisters. „MozartÊs Hidden Kitchen.‰ Accessed January 14, 2012. http://www .npr.org/2007/01/26/7003147/mozarts-hidden-kitchen.

McGavin, Jennifer. „Traditional Viennese Apple Strudel: Altwiener Apfelstrudel.‰ Ac- cessed January 8, 2013. http://germanfood.about.com/od/baking/r/applestrudltrad.htm. Mörwald, Toni, and Christoph Wagner. Austrian Desserts . New York: Skyhorse Publish-

ing, 2013.

„Mozart Chocolate.‰ Accessed January 12, 2012. http://www.mozartchocolate.net/?Mira bell_Mozartkugeln.

„Rugelach.‰ The Shiksa in the Kitchen . Accessed January 10, 2013. http://theshiksa.com/ 2011/02/02/rugelach/.

Confectioner Paul Fürst created the renowned Salzburg chocolate-covered hazelnut nougats known as Mozartkugeln in 1890 to honor the city's famous musician, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. (Walter Geiersperger/Corbis)

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