7.3 Cutting Plan
Weekly Cutting Plan
On the basis of the monthly delivery tracker a cutting plan is made for an entire week, which is reviewed on a weekly basis for the accomplishment of the plan and on first day of every week a plan versus actual report is generated for the just concluded week.
Daily Cutting Plan
On receiving the packing list and swatch from the stores the CAD department should make a cut plan of the complete order based on the fabric details (width and shade ) from the stores, the cut plan (Annexure 20) should mention the marker length, number of plies to be used in the along with the width of fabric.
*The packing list contains the information of cutable width of fabric along with the meterage of the fabric available in that width.
From the weekly cutting plan a daily cutting plan is made by keeping WIP status as mentioned in WIP report (Annexure 21) of the assembly lines in consideration.
7.4 Table Plan
The table plan will be generated for the individual spreader for a day on the basis of the daily cutting plan. The table plan (Annexure 22) contains information of different cuts for the styles planned on that day.
The Work order will be given to CAD, which will then divide the whole order quantity into cuts required to clear the complete Work Order quantity and the markers for the individual cut will be made according to the widths of fabric available as mentioned in the packing list of the fabric provided by the fabric stores. These marker length and width will be mentioned on the lay sheet one copy of this is given to the cutting supervisor second copy will be kept in the CAD and the third copy of this lay sheet will be given to fabric stores.
The cutting plan for the day will be made considering the cutting WIP status for the sewing lines. The sewing line having the least WIP will be given the highest priority. Thus the cuts as mentioned in the lay sheet by the CAD will be selected as per the cutting plan for the day. The table plan for an individual table will be made and the
* The cutting plan will be made one day prior to the actual cut date.
7.5 Information sources for cutting planning
7.5.1 Monthly Delivery Tracker
The planning department of the factory prepares the monthly delivery tracker
(Annexure 23); the tracker contains information about different styles that are going
to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory. The information is under following headings
Buyer, Style, Color, Quantity, Delivery Date, PP Status, Trim Status, Fabric Status, Planned Cut Date, etc.
7.5.2 Production Plan
The planning department of the factory prepares the production plan (Annexure 24); this plan contains information about the line allocation to the styles to be manufactured in that specific month in the factory.
7.6.
Pattern & Marker Checking ProcedureWhenever a style comes into bulk cutting the hard patterns for bulk production duly signed and sealed by the pattern master has to be issued to the cutting by the pattern master. On receiving the patterns these has to measured and the measurement filled in pattern checking report (Annexure 25) and checked against the specification sheet and if any discrepancy is found, the same has to be reported and informed to the pattern master and necessary corrective actions must be taken.
Whenever a style is cut for the first time the marker generated should be checked against the hard pattern for any possible errors in marker making or printing, one complete garment patterns of the middle size should be checked. The hard patterns will be placed on top of the marker at the respective position and the periphery will be traced and if there is any discrepancy found has to be informed to the CAD as well as cutting.
Stripe marker has to be paired face to face
* The Technical Manager must approve all the markers.
7.7. Marker Ordering
The table plan will be given to the CAD and the CAD will take the print out of the marker on the basis of Work Order no. & cut no as mentioned in the table plan.
The cut that is planned first will have the highest priority and the subsequent cuts will be lower in priority. All the markers must be ready on the same day on which the table plan is given to the CAD.
7.8. Stores Requisition
The table plan thus generated in the previous step will be given to the fabric stores. Based on the WO no & cut no as mentioned in the table plan the fabric store will then issue 3% extra fabric over the length required according to the marker length in the same width as mentioned in the lay sheet.
The cut that is planned first will have the first priority and the subsequent cuts will be lower in priority. All the fabric must be ready on the same day on which the table plan is given to the fabric stores.
7.9. Mock-ups preparation
After the handover meeting of the style to the production floor, the style requirements as discussed in the meeting should be converted into the visual standards (Annexure
26) and displayed at all relevant work stations as guide for the work.
7.10. Laying
Once the table plan is handed over to the laying batch they will lay the cuts mentioned in their table plan in the order as per the table plan.
The laying batch must cross check the width and shade while laying and any discrepancy found should be immediately reported to the laying and cutting supervisor. The laying batch has to ensure the correctness of no of plies as mentioned in the table plan. The laying batch also will fill the spreading sheets the quality checker has to ensure that the spreading sheets (Annexure 27) are being filled properly and completely. During laying the laying batch has to follow the work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for normal table laying
(Annexure 28) or pin table laying (Annexure 29) as the case may be.
At the start of the lay the quality checker has to check for the face side of the fabric and educate the layer about the same also he has to check for one way fabric and pattern requirement in garment and instruct the layers accordingly. After the completion of lay he must check it for quality and must document the same in the lay checking report (Annexure 30).
Defect marking should be done at the laying stage using a contrast colour fabric stripe.
7.11. Cutting
Once the laying is complete and quality checker has checked its quality only then the cutting has to commence. The cutter has to take the spreadsheet and write their name and sign it in case of straight knife cutting and in case of a lay being cut on auto cutter a separate log of the cuts being processed by the auto cutter has to maintained by the auto cutter operator. During the process of cutting the cutter has to follow the work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for straight knife cutting
(Annexure 31) or auto cutter cutting (Annexure 32) as the case may be.
In case of block cutting of components or interlining the cutting has to be done by band knife. For band knife cutting the cutter has to follow work instructions as mentioned in the work instruction sheet for band knife cutting (Annexure 33).
Pin table should be used for all check fabric cutting.