Length and width depends upon the size of the pillow.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (ONE SIDE PART)
0-1 and 2-3 is the total length of the pillow + 1” extra for seam allowance. 0-2 and 1-3 is the total width of the pillow + 1” extra for seam allowance. SECOND SIDE PART
Place the one side part on the fabric and draw outline. Remove one side part and now mark extension. 0-4,0-5, 1-6,1-7,2-8, 2-9, 3-10 and 3-11 all around mark = double of corner fold measurement. For example if corner fold is 1 ½” then take 3”+ ½” Join all the corners with extended outline as shown in the below figure. 12, 13, 14 and 15 are the corner points. Join 4-5, 6-7, 8-9 and 10-11 and cut these corners to fold and stitch.
ONE SIDE INNER PART
0-1 and 2-3 = 5” length 0-2 and 1-3 = width same as 0-2 of one side part.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold one side edges of the one side part and one side inner part and stitch. Match the corners of 4-5, 6-7, 8-9 and 10-11and stitch on wrong side. Press the seam and fold the corners. Spread second side part on the table by keeping wrong side on top. Now place one side inner part on that by matching unstitched edge of 0-2. Now on the top place one side part by matching 1-3 and fold the corners of the 4, 6, 7, 11, 10, 8, 9 and 5 and fix alpines. Machine with a single stitch and after set the closed zigzag stitch and stitch on previous plain stitch.
For frilled edges cut both the parts as one side part. For frills cut the fabric strips four times of length and width. Width of the frill is as per choice. First stitch the frills on one part of the pillow cover and then place one side part and one side inner part and stitch.
CUSHION COVER
Length and width depends upon the size of the cushion. PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (One Side Part)
0-1 And 2-3 = length of the cushion + ½”. 0-2 and 1-3 = width of the cushion + ½” Second Side Part
0-2 and 1-3 = same as in one side part.
Second Side Inner Part
0-1 and 2-3 is 5” and 0-2 & 1-3 is same as 0-2 of any side part.
Cut one piece of one side part, one second side part and one second side inner part. If inner lining is there cut one piece of each same as all parts.
SEWING INSTRUCTION
Fold 0-2 edge of second side part and second side inner part and stitch. Place one side part by keeping right side on top. Place second side part by matching 1-3 and on the top place second side inner part by matching 1-3 with one side parts 0-2 by keeping wrong side on top. Fix with alpines and stitch all the four sides all around. Turn and press the seam.
POUCH
Sides of the pouch may round or square as per choice. Take a piece of fabric as per the length and width of the required side of pouch. Cut sponge material and lining same as main fabric. Place sponge in between the main fabric and lining and tack with hand needle, or quilting can be done with vertical, horizontal or square stitching lines. Do same for two sides. Join two sides with the quilted main fabric. Stitch zip on two edges at the centre opening.
For cylindrical pouch cut two round pieces and stitch a rectangle piece around the round pieces and stitch zip to finish the opening of the pouch.
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION (BAG)
0-1 and 2-3 is the total height of the bag and 0-2 & 1-3 is the total width of the bag’s two side parts. For the bottom part width will be the same as side parts but 0-1 & 2-3 is 3” to 3.5”. 4 are the centre point of 0-1 and 5 is the center point of 2-3. Measure 0-6, 1-7, 2-8 and 3-9 by ½” and join with 4 and 5 with shape. Cut according to the shape. Length of the handle part is 15” to 17” and width is 3”.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Join sides of two sides of side parts together on wrong side. Place bottom part at the bottom of the bag and tack with hand needle and then stitch with machine. Fold the handle of the bag and stitch on open.
Side part from wrong side. Turn and take out the handle strip from open edge of 0-2 or 1-3 to right side. Place handle at the position and fix with alpines. Stitch in a square shape and X shape for the strength of the handle. Now stitch a zip to finish the opening of the bag.
APRON
MEASUREMENTS CHEST
MAIN FRONT PART
0-1 =Measure total chest – 10”for length and mark the point. 0-2 =Measure 1/4th chest + 1 ½” for width and mark the point. 1-3 =Measure same as 0-2 and mark the point. Draw a box 0-1-3-2. 0-4 & 2-5 =Measure 1/4th chest and mark the point. Join 4-5.
0-6 =Measure 1/12th chest + 1” and mark the point. 4-7 =Measure same as 0-6. Join 6-7.
7-8 =Measure 1 ½” bias outside and mark the point. Draw a curve shape on 6-8-5.
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 1/4th chest for the length of the pocket and mark the point.
0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 1” less than length for the width of the pocket. Draw a box 0-1-3-2. NECK STRIP
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 12.5” for the length of the strip. 0-2 is on fold so it will be total 25”. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the strip.
WAIST BELT
0-1 & 2-3 =Measure 2” for the width of the belt and mark the point. 0-2 & 1-3 =Measure ½ chest + 6” and mark the point.
STITCHING INSTRUCTION
Fold the 0-2 of the pocket first by ¼” and second by ½” on wrong side and stitch. Place the pocket at the center of 0-4 by folding the edges of 0-1-3-2 inside and fix with alpines. Stitch on edges. If wish to stitch one more big pocket on center of 1-4, cut same length with double of the width of the small pocket and follow same instruction to stitch. Fold all the edges of the main part on 0-6-8-5-3-1 and stitch. Edges can be finished by bias strip of fabric also. Fold both side edges of the neck strip and waist belt in and fold to stitch. Place one end of the neck strip on 6 and another on the other folded side of 6 and stitch in X shape for strength. Same way stitch two belts on two sides of 5 to finish apron.
CHILDREN’S CLOTHES
JANGIA
MEASUREMENTS SEAT = as per age
LENGTH= 1/3rd of seat + 1”extra + 1:5” for nefa for elastic WIDTH= 1/4th of seat + 1:5”
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 = Measure 1:5” and mark the point fold for elastic. 1-2 =Measure Length of Jangia and draw a straight line 0-1 & 2.
0-3 = Measure width of Jangia 1/4th of seat + 1:5” and mark the point.
3-4-5 = 0-1-2 and 2-5 = 0-3. Draw a block 0-3-5-2. Join 1-4. 4-6 = Measure1/2'” inside and join 3-6.
5-7 =Measure 1/6th of seat and Join 6-7. 2-8 =Measure 1/12th of seat and Join 7-8.
9 = Mark as center point of 7-8.
9-10=Measure 1/2” inside for front shape. Join 8-10-7 with curved shape.
Fold the fabric two times to get four layers of fabric. Follow the fold as per draft. First cut the part 3-6- 7-9-8. Separate front and back parts and then cut deep curved shape only for front on 8-10-7. Cut two strips of fabric as per shape of the front and back leg.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First join two sides of Jangia on 3-6-7. Finish front and back leg open with same of strips of fabric by matching front and back leg shapes. Leg finish can also be done with frills, piping or lace. Fold top part for nefa to insert elastic. Take elastic as 1/3rd of seat and insert.
JHABLA
MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size
LENGTH = chest – 3” WIDTH = 1/4th of chest + 4”
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure length of Jhabla and draw a straight line. 1-2 =Measure 1”and mark for bottom fold.
0-3 =Measure width of Jhabla 1/4th of chest + 4” and mark. 4-5 =Measure same as 1-2. Join 1-4 and 2-5.
3-6 =Measure 1/6th of chest and mark the point.
0-7 =Measure 1/12th of chest for neck depth. Draw a rectangle on 6-7. 8 =Mark a center point on 7. Draw curve shape on neck with French Curve (see page 50).
3-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest + ½” for arm.
9-10 =Measure 1:5” inside for armhole shape. Join 10-5. Draw a small curve shape on 9-10.
Cut the front and back parts of Jhabla. Cut stripes of same fabric to finish sleeves and neck. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First join shoulders 3-6. Place the pattern of Jhabla in such a way that on shoulder fold comes like in Jangia on 2-8 area is fold. Finish sleeves part 3-9 with fabric strips and hem. Finish neck part with the same shape of fabric strip. On front part, make a small hole on neck at point 7 and finish it with buttonhole stitch to insert dory. Finish bottom flair with hem. Insert a dory on front neck and tie a knot at the end of the dory.
A-LINE JHABLA
MEASUREMENTS CHEST = as per size LENGTH = chest + 4 to 6” WIDTH = ½ chest + 4”
SHOULDER = ½ of chest – 1”
PATTERN DRAFTING INSTRUCTION
0-1 =Measure full length of Jhabla and mark the point. 0-2 = Measure ½ of chest + 4” for width of the jhabla according to bottom flair.
1-3 = Same as 0-2. Draw a box 0-1-3 and 2.
0-4 =Measure ½ of shoulder + ¼” and mark the point. 4-5 =Measure ¼” down for shoulder shape and mark the point.
0-6 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”for neck width and mark the point. Join 4-5. 0-7 =Measure 1:5” for back neck length and mark the point.
0-8 =Measure 1/12th of chest + ½”or 1” for front neck length and mark the point. Draw front and back neck shapes with the help of the French curve ( see page 50).
0-9 =Measure 1/4th of chest for armhole length and mark the point.
9-10 =Measure 1/4th of chest + 1” for ease + ½” for seam allowance. Join 10-3.
11 is the straight extension line of 4-5. Mark 12 as the center point of 4-11. Draw back armhole shape on 5-12-10 by French Curve. Measure ½” inside on 12-13 and draw front armhole shape by joining 5-13-10 points by French Curve.
Cut the same shape of fabric stripes to finish neck and armholes (see page 10). Keep back open for ease and finish with buttoning.
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
First finish back opens with buttoning(see page 14). For buttoning cut two straight stripes of same fabric as per the length of the Jhabla + 1:5”extra. One strip width will be 2” and one is 1:5”. Join 2” strip on the left side of the back part. Half fold the strip and machine on top. Join 1:5” strip to other side and totally fold inside and machine or hem.
Join front and back shoulder on 3-5. Finish armhole and neck with same shape of fabric strip, turn the strip inside and finish with hem. To decorate the garment armhole and neck finish can be done with piping, frills or lace. Join two sides of A-line jhabla on 8-9. Finish bottom flair with hem.