HECOL 460 Course Outline - University of Alberta

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1 The University of Alberta September 2, 2014 Department of Human Ecology

Nineteenth, Twentieth and Twenty-first Century Dress in the Western World — HECOL 460 Course Outline - Fall 2014

Instructor: Dr. Anne Bissonnette

Office: Human Ecology Building room 325; Phone: 780.492.3604 E-mail: [email protected]

Office Hours: By appointment only. Requests to be made via e-mail 48 hrs. ahead of time. Students can usually expect a response to e-mails within 48 hrs., not including weekends when I do not read e-mails.

Lectures and Laboratories: M, W, F: 10 a.m. to 11:50 a.m.

Time and Place (Lectures and labs are subject to change): as a baseline, the lectures and labs will generally occur following this division:

B1-LEC (67180): Lectures Monday 10 a.m. to 11:50 a.m. in room HEB 104 (1 hr. 40 min. + 10 min break) Friday 10 a.m. to 10:50 a.m. in room HEB 104 (50 hr. + 10 min break)

H1-LAB (67181): Labs Wednesdays 10 a.m. to 11:50 a.m. in room HEB 104 (applied projects) (1 hr. 40 min. + 10 min break) Friday 11:00 a.m. to 11:50 a.m. in room HEB 104 (50 min.)

COURSE DESCRIPTION & OBJECTIVES

Course Description: This course aims to provide a deeper understanding of dress from the nineteenth century to the present day. A combination of lectures and labs are used to address the handling, storage, examination and documentation of artifacts, artifactual research and key figures in dress history. Resources include the Department of Human Ecology’s Clothing and Textiles Collection and the Bruce Peel Special Collections Library.

Course Prerequisite: Survey of Dress in the Western World — HECOL 268

Course Objectives: Upon completion of the course, learners will have a deeper understanding of dress history from the nineteenth century to the present day and will be able to safely handle artifacts from museum collections. Lectures on the social, cultural, artistic and economic forces that affect fashion and leading Haute Couture designers will enable learners to recognize various factors that influence fashion and dress behaviors.

Learners will be given research projects that will require description, deduction and speculation. They will participate in class discussions on assigned texts or topics that will require a demonstration of analytical skills and critical thinking on their part.

REQUIRED BOOK, SUPPLIES & SUPPLEMENTARY MATERIAL Required:

 Aspelund, Karl. Fashioning Society: A Hundred Years of Haute Couture by Six Designers. New York: Fairchild Books, 2009.

 This required book will be used starting week 5: make sure you have it by then (as of August 20 the bookstore has 20 copies).

 Use of a camera on designated days (you can borrow the instructor’s camera if need be).

 Week 8: shoe project requires: rubber cement glue, “T” pins, scissor, leather (enough for the part of one shoe on top of the foot (i.e. “upper”) AND same amount for lining). Artifacts from the collection will be assigned as models: you should wait to purchase the leather as a result.

Supplementary Material to Consult for Assignments:

 The Chicago Manual of Style. 16th ed. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press, 2010. (see also Chicago-Style Citation Quick Guide website) LECTURES, LABS, ASSIGNMENTS & ACTIVITIES

Week Date Topic Introduction

1 W: Sept 3 LECTURE: 10-11:10 am: Explanation of the course outline, objectives, assignments & reading summaries and template.

 “Deep Reading” approach (to be posted on eClass after Sept. 3).

 PowerPoint presentation on “Week 1 Introduction and Handling” (to be posted on eClass after Sept. 3) LAB: 11:20-11:50 am: WHAT CAN YOU SEE? (ASSIGNMENT #1 – DUE: during class) (no points)

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2 1 F: Sept. 5 LAB: 10-11:50 am: Presentation by Carolyn Morgan, Conservator, University of Alberta’s Bruce Peel Special Collections

Library (Lower level, Rutherford Library), followed by a library exercise.

 Meet at 10 a.m. at the Bruce Peel Special Collections Library (food & brink to be in student bags outside room) ARRIVE EARLY & NO GUM

 WHAT CAN YOU SEE? (ASSIGNMENT #2 – DUE: during class) (no points) Storage and Conservation

2 M: Sept. 8 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Storage and conservation of clothing and textiles.

 READ FOR CLASS: Steele, Valerie. “A Museum of Fashion Is More Than a Clothes-Bag,” Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 2, no. 4 (November 1998): 327-336. (10 pages) (electronic access via library)

 Hand-in READING SUMMARY #1 at the beginning of class 1 PT

 PowerPoint presentation on “Week 2A Storage and Conservation” (on eClass after Sept. 8)

 Class discussion on collecting and research: methodology description, deduction and speculation.

 Group exercise

2 W: Sept. 10 LAB: 10-11:50 am: CONDITION REPORT (ASSIGNMENT #3-DUE Sept. 15 before class) 2 PTS

 Bring a CAMERA if you have one (you can borrow the instructor’s camera if need be).

 Demonstration of the handling of mounts and the creation of a condition report.

 See assignment sheet & examples on eClass.

2 F: Sept. 12 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Continuation of storage and conversation and addition of display issues.

 READ FOR CLASS: Bittner, Elizabeth. “Basic Textile Care: Structure, Storage, and Display” (2004). Available at https://sentra.ischool.utexas.edu/~cochinea/pdfs/e-bittner-04-textile.pdf.

 PowerPoint presentation on “Week 2B Storage and Display” (on eClass after Sept. 12) LAB: 11- 11:50 am: CONDITION REPORT

 More time to complete the condition report if you need it.

Midterm Garment Selection & Early Nineteenth Century Fall registration deadline: last day to drop course is Sept. 16 (50% refund until Oct. 2) 3 M: Sept. 15 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Artifact-based Midterm Research Paper (DUE in ONE MONTH)

 READ FOR CLASS: the midterm assignment sheet, Cara Simioni’s “The Op Art Paper Dress: Counterculture Reflected In The Arts” & Karen Fraser’s “Gothic Resurrection: Fetishism and the Undead in 1990s Goth Subcultural Dress” to grasp the level of scholarlarly writing expected in this class (on eClass).

 Explanation of structure & goals of this year’s research paper.

 Discussion on scholarly writing: nuanced speech, logic, analysis, format.

LAB: 11- 11:50 am: Inspect your pre-selection or select a garment between 1815 and 1899 from the collection.

 Bring a CAMERA if you have one (you can borrow the instructor’s camera if need be) to photograph it.

3 W: Sept. 17 LAB: 10-11:50 am: Midterm Research Paper

 Bring a camera if you have one.

 If you have not made a garment selection by 11 am, an artifact will be assigned to you.

 Observe inside & out, photograph, seek information on the database in class (problems might occur at home).

 Complete “Fact Sheet” of paper that will be part of the paper. Use the class to run your “Fact Sheet” by the instructor. Books will be available for consultation to help re-assess and back-up the date range of your piece.

3 F: Sept. 19 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Doing research on neoclassical dress.

 READ FOR CLASS: Bissonnette, Anne. “Dessiné d’après nature: Renditions from Life in the Journal des Dames et des Modes 1798-1799.” Journal for Eighteenth-Century Studies (to be made available to students on eClass)

 PowerPoint presentation on “Week 3 Early 19^th Century Dress Research.”

 Class discussion on modernity in dress & strengths and limitations of visual sources.

 Group exercise Nineteenth Century

4 M: Sept. 22 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Focus on fashion periodicals.

 READ FOR CLASS: Helvenston, Sally. “Popular Advice for the Well-Dressed Woman in the 19th Century:”

Dress 6 (1980): 31-46 (16 pages).

 Class discussion on the media & the message.

 Group exercise with 19^th century periodical.

4 W: Sept. 24 LAB: 10-11:50 am: FASHION PLATES RESEARCH – part 1 (ASSIGNMENT #4-DUE Sept. 29 before class) 2 PTS

 Bring a COMPUTER if you have one (there are terminals in the design lab as well).

 See “nestled” assignment sheet on eClass.

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3 4 F: Sept. 26 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Dress outside high style.

 READ FOR CLASS: Worth, Rachel. “Rural Laboring Dress, 1850-1900: Some Problems of Representation.”

Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture 3, no. 3 (November 1998): 323-342. (15 pages)

 Discussion on the reading.

LAB: 11- 11:50 am: Observation of collection high style and vernacular artifacts: 1800-1899 part 1.

Mid to Late Nineteenth Century Fall term refund deadline: students withdrawing after Oct. 2 will be assessed full fees 5 M: Sept. 29 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Textbook: Preface & Chapter 1: Modernity Rising: The Age of Worth

 READ FOR CLASS: Preface & Chapter 1 of textbook.

5 W: Oct. 1 LAB: 10-11:50 am: VISUAL DATA RESEARCH

 FASHION PLATES RESEARCH – part 2 (ASSIGNMENT #5-DUE Oct. 6 before class) 2 PTS

 Bring a COMPUTER if you have one and see “nestled” assignment sheet.

5 F: Oct. 3 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Chapter 2: An Empire of Fashion: The Age of Worth

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 2 of textbook

LAB: 11-11:50 am: Observation of collection high style and vernacular artifacts: 1800-1899 part 2.

Early Twentieth Century

6 M: Oct. 6 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 3: Revolution in the Air (Poiret)

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 3 of textbook 6 W: Oct. 8 LAB: 10-11:50 am: VISUAL DATA RESEARCH

6 F: Oct. 10 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Revolution: Madeleine Vionnet (NOT IN TEXTBOOK)

 READ FOR CLASS: Arnold, Rebecca. “Vionnet and Classicism.” In Vionnet, ed. Judith Clark, 3-8. London:

Judith Clark Costume Gallery, 2001. Available at http://judithclarkcostume.com/wp- content/uploads/2013/01/vionnet.pdf.

 Discussion on the reading.

LAB: 11:00 to 11:50 am: artifact review 1900s-1930s Midterm & Early to Mid-Twentieth Century

7 M: Oct. 13 Thanksgiving: NO CLASS

7 W: Oct. 15 MIDTERM PAPER is due (30 PTS)

LAB: 10-11:50 am: VISUAL DATA RESEARCH

7 F: Oct. 17 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am:Chapter 4:Into aNewCentury:Backward,Forward,andSideways(Poiret,Chanel&Schiaparelli)

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 4 of textbook Mid-Twentieth Century

8 M: Oct. 20 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 5: The Fading of Europe: The American Age Begins (WWII)

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 5 of textbook 8 W: Oct. 22 LAB: 10-11:50 am: CRAFTSMANSHIP

UNDERSTANDING THE MAKING OF OBJECTS – part 1 (ASSIGNMENT #8 – DUE Oct. 27 before class) 2 PTS

 See “nestled” assignment sheet.

8 F: Oct. 24 LECTURE:10-10:50 am: Chapter 6: The Ground Shifts

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 6 of textbook LAB: 11-11:50 am: artifact review 1940s-1960s Mid to Late Twentieth Century

9 M: Oct. 27 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 7: Turning to Youth

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 7 of textbook 9 W: Oct. 29 LAB: 10-11:50 am: CRAFTSMANSHIP

UNDERSTANDING THE MAKING OF OBJECTS – part 2 (ASSIGNMENT #9 – DUE Nov. 3 before class) 2 PTS

9 F: Nov. 31 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Chapter 8: The Flesh Failures (Let the Sun Shine In)

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 8 of textbook LAB: 11:30 to 11:50 am: artifact review

Mid to Late Twentieth Century & the Art Scene

10 M: Nov. 3 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 9: The Great Rock ’n’ Roll Swindle

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4 10 W: Nov. 5 LAB: 10-11:50 am: CRAFTSMANSHIP

10 F: Nov. 7 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Chapter 10: High Fashion and Art.

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 10 of textbook LAB: 11-11:50 am: artifact review

The End of History

11 M: Nov. 10 Fall term class break: NO CLASS 11 W: Nov. 12 LAB: 10-11:50 am: CRAFTSMANSHIP

11 F: Nov. 14 LECTURE: 10-10:50 am: Chapter 11: The “End of History”

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 11 of textbook LAB: 11-11:50 am: artifact review

Special Project

12 M: Nov. 17 10-11:50 am: GUEST LECTURER: Sarah Woodyard

 READ FOR CLASS: To be announced

 Lecture & assignment description.

12 W: Nov. 19 LAB: 10-11:50 am: HANDS-ON GARMENT RESEARCH: Part 1 (ASSIGNMENT #12 – DUE Nov. 21 before class) 2 PTS

12 F: Nov. 21 LAB: 10-11:50 am: HANDS-ON GARMENT RESEARCH: Part 2 (ASSIGNMENT #13 – DUE Nov. 24 before class) 2 PTS

The End of History that Wasn’t Last day to withdraw from fall term course: Nov. 26 13 M: Nov. 24 LAB: 10-11:50 am: HANDS-ON GARMENT RESEARCH: Part 3 (ASSIGNMENT #14 – DUE Nov. 26 before class) 2 PTS

13 W: Nov. 26 LAB: 10-11:50 am: PHOTOGRAPHIC RESEARCH (ASSIGNMENT #15 – DUE Dec. 1 before class) 2 PTS

 Bring a camera if you have one.

 Select an artifact, get approval from instructor, photograph artifact.

 See assignment sheet for image search.

13 F: Nov. 28 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 12: The End-of-the-Century That Wasn’t

 READ FOR CLASS: Chapter 12 of textbook The Big Questions

14 M: Dec. 1 LECTURE: 10-11:50 am: Chapter 13: We Are Caught: Trend Spotting in the Early Twenty-first Century

14 W: Dec. 3 LAST LECTURE: 11:30 to 11:50 am: Chapter 14: Thresholds: The Old Question

 Explanation & handing-in of the take-home final exam on the textbook (30 PTS) Thursday: Dec. 11 Final take-home exam is due

EVALUATION

Weighting of the assignments, paper and exams:

ASSIGNMENTS: 26%

1) What can you see, pt 1 (no points) 2) What can you see, pt 2 (no points) 3) Condition Report (2 pts.) 4) Fashion Plate Project, pt. 1 (2 pts.) 5) Fashion Plate Project, pt. 2 (2 pts.) 6) Fashion Plate Project, pt. 3 (2 pts.) 7) Fashion Plate Project, pt. 4 (2 pts.)

8) Understanding the Making of Objects, pt. 1 (2 pts.) 9) Understanding the Making of Objects, pt. 2 (2 pts.) 10) Understanding the Making of Objects, pt. 3 (2 pts.) 11) Understanding the Making of Objects, pt. 4 (2 pts.) 12) Hands-on Garment Research, pt.1 (2 pts) 13) Hands-on Garment Research, pt.2 (2 pts) 14) Hands-on Garment Research, pt.3 (2 pts) 15) Photographic Research (2 pts.)

READING SUMMARIES: 7%

(7 summaries@ 1 pt. each = 7 pts. total)

Pass (1 point) or fail (0 point) P.S.: I will not accept them via e-mail or late: you must bring a print-out in class for me and another for yourself.

PARTICIPATION &

PRESENCE: 7%

P.S.: Sign your name before the beginning of each class on the roster on the front desk. If late, sign after class.

This doesn’t give you 8 points, it helps me keep track of you & make participation remarks later.

MIDTERM PAPER: 30%

Research and writing skills.

TAKE-HOME FINAL EXAM: 30%

Critical thinking skills.

Cumulative on all lectures.

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5 Grade Evaluation: At the end of the term, a student’s numbered grades (raw scores) for the assignments, reading summaries, participation and presence, midterm paper and final exam will be converted into a letter grading system with a four-point scale of numerical equivalents for calculating grade point averages. Please note that the last day to withdraw from fall term courses is November 26.

Late assignments, reading summaries, midterm paper and final exam: No late reading summaries will be accepted. For assignments and midterm paper, late means 10% off for every 24 hours of lateness (no longer accepted after 72 hours). Please note that while the condition report and the photographic research assignment can accommodate lateness, the other assignments build on one another. As such, students are unlikely to be able to progress well on these if the work is late. The take-home final exam will not be accepted late.

Deferred assignments, midterm paper and final exam: If an incapacitating illness or severe domestic affliction exists, a student can apply with the instructor to give the assignment, paper or final exam after 72 hours from the due date. Deferments are a privilege and not a right; there is no guarantee that a deferral will be granted. Misrepresentation of facts to gain a deferral is a serious breach of the Code of Student Behavior.

STUDENT RESPONSIBILITY

Academic Integrity and Honesty: The University of Alberta is committed to the highest standards of academic integrity and honesty. Students are expected to be familiar with these standards regarding academic honesty and to uphold the policies of the University in this respect. Students are particularly urged to familiarize themselves with the provisions of the Code of Student Behaviour (online at

www.uofaweb.ualberta.ca/secretariat/studentappeals.cfm) and avoid any behaviour which could potentially result in suspicions of cheating, plagiarism, misrepresentation of facts and/or participation in an offence. Academic dishonesty is a serious offence and can result in suspension or expulsion from the University.

“All students at the University of Alberta are subject to the Code of Student Behaviour, as outlined at:

http://www.governance.ualberta.ca/en/CodesofConductandResidenceCommunityStandards/CodeofStudentBehaviour.aspx. Please familiarize yourself with it and ensure that you do not participate in any inappropriate behavior as defined by the Code. Key components of the code include the following statements.

30.3.2(1) Plagiarism

“No Student shall submit the words, ideas, images or data of another person as the Student’s own in any academic writing, essay, thesis, project, assignment, presentation or poster in a course or program of study.”

30.3.2(2) a. Cheating

“No Student shall in the course of an examination or other similar activity, obtain or attempt to obtain information from another Student or other unauthorized source, give or attempt to give information to another Student, or use, attempt to use or possess for the purposes of use any unauthorized material.”

All forms of dishonesty are unacceptable at the University. Cheating, plagiarism and misrepresentation of facts are serious offenses. Anyone who engages in these practices will receive at minimum a grade of zero for the assignments, reading summaries, midterm paper and final exam in question and no opportunity will be given to replace the grade or redistribute the weights. Any offense will be reported to the Associate Dean [Academic] who will determine the disciplinary action to be taken. Typical sanctions for serious violations of the Code have included disciplinary grade reductions, disciplinary failing grades, suspension or permanent expulsion from the University.

Students with disabilities: Students who require accommodation in this course due to a disability are advised to discuss their needs with Specialized Support & Disability Services (2-800 Students’ Union Building).

Student Success Centre: Students who require additional help in developing strategies for better time management, study skills or examination skills should contact the Student Success Centre (2-300 Students’ Union Building).

Policy about course outlines can be found in §23.4(2) of the University Calendar. Disclaimer: Any typographical errors in this Course Outline are subject to change and will be announced in class. The date of the final examination is set by the Registrar and takes precedence over the final examination date reported in this syllabus.

Copyright: Dr. Anne Bissonnette, Department of Human Ecology, Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environmental Sciences, University of Alberta (2014).

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