Acumulación de pretensiones

INDUSTRY

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Footwear design is one of the most exciting and important careers in fashion. In this book we have looked at how to put together a well-designed and attractively presented footwear collection. In doing so we have discussed research—how to compile it and how to develop the material, how to design a collection, how to create Å at drawings, and ultimately how to present your work. Of course you cannot become a footwear designer just by reading a textbook. As with any profession, footwear design requires in-depth education, training, and experience.

To become a successful footwear designer you need, Ä rst and foremost, to love shoes. If you can see yourself spending your life completely immersed in the world of shoes, then you have made the right career choice. A passion for fashion and the fashion world is almost equally important. The design world can be great fun and rewarding, but the road to a comfortable level (in terms of both Ä nancial status and job security) can be a long and hard one.

This is why it is important, as with any job, to do what you love the most (see case studies).

Typical skills required include:

• An ability to communicate designs based on a brief

• An understanding of the manufacturing process

• An understanding of materials

• Creative awareness

• Commercial awareness

• Computer literacy in basic design software

• An understanding of the customer

• An ability to communicate design in a relatively small surface area (shoes)

• An ability to work under pressure

• An understanding of the client

• An understanding of the technical aspects of shoemaking

TRAINING

One of the most common questions is: “What is the best way to break into a footwear career?” Luckily there are many different ways to approach the study of shoe design. Numerous design schools offer short programs of study in footwear design and shoemaking. It is advisable to try one of these “taster programs”

for ideas on which direction to take, and they are usually evening, weekend, or vacation programs. They are generally broken down into design and technical (or making) programs. The design program would be similar to the format of this book—to help a student put together a small portfolio of work, with an inspirational starting point and Ä nal illustrated collection. Technical programs usually cover the basic construction of a shoe, such as a ballerina or court shoe. Eventually you might specialize in one of many different options, from sandal-making to proper boot-making. It is a good idea to take programs in both design and making to see if the shoe-design world is something of interest.

A full degree in footwear can take up to three or four years and requires much more of a commitment. Generally the Ä rst year of a degree would cover basic drawing techniques, including the basics of sketching, and rendering techniques such as watercolors and markers. Most colleges will also start with sewing techniques, where students will need to create a folder or a book demonstrating technical aspects of making. This would include sewing methods, how to attach hardware to uppers, and numerous other ways to treat shoe parts. Pattern-making might also be included, starting from simple patterns, such as a court shoe or derby, to more complicated examples, such as a boot. Students may be making shoes and working on college-set design briefs in addition to projects that are often college-set by local footwear companies. The Ä rst couple of years of the program will generally involve design tutorials combined with creating collections with handmade end results. The last year is often dedicated to designing a Ä nal collection that will showcase your design identity. Preparations for the real world, such as portfolios and résumés, will also usually be part of the Ä nal year of study.

In addition to undergraduate degrees, some design schools offer graduate degrees. In graduate programs students are usually expected to excel in the concept of footwear design, and will be expected to create a collection demonstrating their individual style and displaying their own personal design “handwriting.”

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Grace Zhong is a good example of how learning all the steps from the very beginning can add advantages to your prototyping skills.

Grace Zhong slots the shank into the insole board. The shank is an essential part of high-heeled shoes that you never actually see.

Grace Zhong’s upper is ready to be lasted over the last shape and the insole. It is vital to know the production aspects from the very beginning in order to become a better shoe designer. In Grace Zhong’s Black Beauty-inspired shoe the form, the materials, and the feel of the shoe follow her theme closely.

TRAINING 177

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FREELANCE DESIGNER

Typically a freelance designer will be contracted by either a label or a design house to create a collection for them. You will need to be able to design within the brief of the company, and thoroughly understand the needs of the client. Depending on the company, it will probably be sufÄ cient to present your work using the design pack as explained in this book. You will need to explain each stage of your design development, and present a Ä nal illustrated design with clear Å ats. Often freelance designers are asked to communicate with the factory in order to follow the process of creating a Ä nal prototype.

However, to become a successful independent designer years of experience are required and it is not, therefore, for the newly graduated. Networking and keeping numerous up-to-date design contacts are essential to make it in the freelance market. Most of the time freelance positions appear via agencies or previous work contacts. Knowledge of trends and the ability to work independently (but also working within a given brief) are important skills to have for this type of design work. The obvious downside of being a freelance designer is the lack of job security, but on the positive side the pay is substantially higher for contract work.

SHOEMAKER

A career in shoemaking involves working in a niche market and requires a multitude of very specialized skills. Shoemaking is a craft-based career, and the ability to work well with your hands is essential. A standard footwear education combined with an apprenticeship is the normal route to becoming a shoemaker.

Generally, bespoke (made-to-order) shoemaking is for menswear, but there are numerous makers who focus on women’s shoes as well. The best path is to take a technical course, as mentioned earlier, to see if that is something that feels natural. Makers usually have their own facilities, which involves investing in tools and some machinery. As well as having their own private clients, they often work on a freelance basis for other bespoke shoemakers.