5.3. Series temporales estimadas
5.3.1. Análisis de la evolución del tipo de interés a corto plazo
The Coat was developed to further explore tailoring techniques by examining design and construction
methods to facilitate alterations to the width of the body and the length of the sleeve. Within a womenswear wardrobe, a coat is generally an expensive garment, considered an ‘investment piece’, promising several seasons of protection from the elements. It is usually purchased with the expectation that it can be worn with most of the existing wardrobe and with future acquisitions.400 Coat design tends to favour ‘classic’ shapes and colours, that give traditional garments like the trench coat an association with ‘timelessness’.
The intention was to develop a simple coat for the shape library with the required technical mechanisms for resizing included. In addition to this, The Coat was identified as an opportunity to reconsider how a garment might be designed for home manufacture and what basic competencies would a home sewer need to possess to take on The Coat project. To extend on the findings of The Cowl Dress, the approach taken to The Coat was to explore if the garment type might be designed to be made in two ways, a simple method, and a more complex method. The simple method might result in a neat, functional garment using few processes and limited machinery (Figure 4.12a,b). The complex method would require greater knowledge of sewing techniques and greater skill in executing the construction, to produce a garment with a higher quality finish (Figure 4.12c,d).
Civilian uniforms are a recurring source of design inspiration. The shape of The Coat was informed by the white duster worn by scientists and technicians while working in a laboratory. The ‘lab coat’ (Figure 4.13) features a straight comfortable cut, one-piece collar, centre-front button (or snap) closure, in-seam pockets and a patch pocket on the chest. The Coat retains all these features, with the exception of the breast pocket. Adapted for women’s outer wear, The Coat has been designed to be unlined, except for the sleeves where the lining supports the cuff and ensures the coat is easily slipped on and off over other garments.
FIGURE 4.13. A LAB COAT WAS THE INSPIRATION FOR THE COAT PROTOTYPE.
400. In a UK study, the active life of a coat was found to be more than 5 years. Langley, Durkacz, and Tanase, Clothing Longevity and Measuring
4.6.2 PROTOTYPE DEVELOPMENT
The drafted pattern for The Coat focused on the development of a side seam inclusive of in-seam pockets, that also has the capacity for later alteration. This combination I considered important to coat within the shape library, providing discreet practicality and long-term use to any garments derived from the style. Usually, the inclusion of a pocket in a side seam prohibits alteration of the seam. Figures 4.14 and 4.15 show the difference in construction between a side seam pocket in a vintage dress and in The Coat prototype. The sleeve of The Coat is drafted with provision for the sleeve to be let down or taken up by adjusting a seam in the lining (Figure 4.16). A shield is attached to the underarm, reinforcing an area of likely wear. On reflection it was noted that unlike The Cowl Skirt, The Coat required little adaptation of existing tailoring methods to meet the aims of the exercise. This led to the observation that there are historic methods of construction that might simply be re-employed in new contexts of fashion design for sustainability thus opening up a vast and rich library of design that could be redeployed to develop more sustain-able contemporary fashion outcomes. The reintroduction of the reinforcement shield is an example of this (Figure 4.17). In high-quality, men’s tailored garments, shields are added to the underarm of jackets and coats and in the seat of trousers, primarily to protect against damage from perspiration (see Chapter 3). Men’s trousers may also have a heel stay to protect where the cuff rubs the heel (Figure 4.18). Traditionally in womenswear, reinforcement is used more sparingly, mostly in blazers, but sometimes in dresses and blouses also.
FIGURE 4.14. INTERIOR DETAIL VIEW OF AN IN-SEAM POCKET BAG SET INTO THE EDGE OF SEAM ALLOWANCE IN A JERSEY
DRESS
FIGURE 4.15. INTERIOR DETAIL VIEW OF THE COAT SHOWING POSITION OF THE IN-SEAM POCKET BAG WITHIN THE SEAM ALLOWANCE, PERMITTING FUTURE
FIGURE 4.16. INTERIOR DETAIL OF A GREY WOOL TOILE FOR THE COAT PROTOTYPE SHOWING SEAM IN THE LINING THAT ALLOWS
FOR ALTERATIONS IN THE LENGTH OF THE SLEEVE.
FIGURE 4.17. INTERIOR DETAIL VIEW OF THE COAT SHOWING UNDERARM SHIELD ATTACHED INTO THE UNDERARM SEAM.
Underarm shields are made in one of two general ways: as a separate component tacked on to the garment over the seam junction of the underarm or inserted into the armhole seam during construction.401 When tacked onto the garment, they can be easily removed, washed, and replaced (Figure 4.19). Shielding areas of wear in these ways is an obvious method of increasing the durability of garments that might be simply reintroduced in to garment manufacturing.
FIGURE 4.18. INTERIOR DETAIL OF THE CUFF OF A PAIR OF MEN’S TROUSERS, SHOWING THE TAPE ALONG THE HEM ALLOWANCE TO PROTECT THE CUFF FROM RUBBING ON THE
HEEL OF THE SHOE.
FIGURE 4.19. HOME SEWN DRESS FROM THE 1980S FEATURING UNDERARM SHIELD
The value of the coat as a wardrobe essential warranted the development of two prototypes, each constructed from different fabrics and using different finishing techniques. A black, boucle, woollen fabric of knit construction was cut and constructed using straight stitching and overlocking to neaten the edges. This method uses an overlocker in addition to a sewing machine but requires only basic operations of each. A second prototype was made from a raw silk, woven cloth. It was constructed entirely on a sewing machine, using binding to neaten the exposed interior seams. Binding requires greater skill in sewing and is time consuming to complete, but results in a very neat, durable, interior finish to an unlined garment.
The style made up well in both woven and knitted cloth; the shape did not rely on the stretch capability of the boucle wool, nor did it compromise the shape. Constructing the garment through two different methods, highlighted the contradiction that can exist between skill and machinery: bound seams reduce the machinery needed to make the garment, but require greater skill to execute successfully. Industrial manufacturing processes were invented precisely to reduce the difficulty, time and cost taken to produce garments. In proposing to reintroduce construction methods that have been superseded by mass-manufacturing technology (e.g. overlocking replacing a bound seam), due consideration needs to be given to the feasibility of reverting to past techniques. Fry discusses a re-conceptualisation of past technologies to ensure the suitability of such methods to the modern day.402 For example, possibly there are new types of press stud fastenings that might be developed to better suit the goals of sustain-ability; ones that are quick to apply but easy to remove without damaging the garment. Alternatively, a trade-off may be required: that sewing press studs takes longer than inserting a zip, is a necessity of sustain-ability. Just as paying a living wage (and consequently a higher retail price) is a necessity of ethical garment production.