In this case, The Cowl Dress was prototyped a number of times, first in calico, then a black linen/synthetic blend, followed by an aubergine pure wool prototype and finally a navy/grey wool-blend check (Figure 4.1). Each prototype refined the fit, proportions, construction methods used and functional elements of the dress. Further, the series of dress prototypes tested the design in a variety of fabrics of different weights and constructions.381
FIGURE 4.1. THREE PROTOTYPES OF THE COWL DRESS PROGRESSIVELY REFINE THE SHAPE, FIT AND DETAILS, AND TEST THE DESIGN IN DIFFERENT FABRIC TYPES.
Inspired by the enduring style of The Bird Dress (see Chapter 1), The Cowl Dress design seeks to be a flattering style that provides a comfortable fit on a variety of body shapes (easy to wear). It features an ankle-length skirt, with an empire bust line, modest neckline, gathered bust detail, back waist darts and generous side pockets (Figures 4.2 and 4.3). The design is in keeping with the prevalent contemporary taste, rather than making specific reference to current fashion trends. My own taste in design has
381. At this point in the research project, the fabric used in the prototypes was anticipated to be a significant consideration, but as the research progressed, the emphasis shifted from the materials and processes used to create the design outcome, to the capacity for design to facilitate responsibility for sustainability.
determined the form of the dress and how the functional features are met within it, for example that variation in wearing the garment is provided by buttons in the cowls that sweep up or release the fullness of the skirt. The first prototype of a design, as an entry in a designer’s shape library,382 tests a basic idea and provides the template for development of the design in multiple aesthetic variations intended as commercial fashion outcomes.
FIGURE 4.2. ORIGINAL CONCEPT SKETCH FOR THE COWL DRESS
The outcome from the progressive refinement of the toiles involved in resolving The Cowl Dress shape, is a suite of construction and pattern making methods that might facilitate assembly, repair or re- modelling by a home sewer across its extended use-life. These include: a pattern comprising as few pieces as possible, simple construction methods that require a limited range of machinery and other sewing equipment, familiar domestic construction processes, fabrics and trims that are easily obtainable at retail fabric stores (e.g. standard dimensions). Easy alterations have been pre-empted by using straight seams, generous seam allowances and minimal shaping to the body (Figs. 4.3., 4.4. and 4.5). The buttons around the hemline allow the cowls to be caught up or let out to vary to drape of the skirt. Adjustable shoulder straps facilitate a good fit over the chest and pockets in the side seams offer utility so often lacking in women’s wear. On the inside, a row of stitching in a contrasting coloured thread along the empire line of the bodice may be easily unpicked to reveal deep seam allowances through the side seams. This allows the dress to be let out (or taken in) a whole size through one continuous seam in the side of the skirt, bodice and facing.
If manufacturing the garment from a pattern, personalisation of the design might be made through varying the design details and in the selection of fabric. This list of technical methods demonstrates how the initial list of sustain-able garment design principles of can be implemented (Table 4.2).
FIGURE 4.3. THE COWL DRESS THIS SLEEVELESS DRESS FEATURES AN EMPIRE
LINE BODICE AND MAXI LENGTH SKIRT WITH COWLS
ON EACH SKIRT PANEL SEAM.
FIGURE 4.4. THE COWL DRESS: INTERIOR BODICE
DETAIL.
FIGURE 4.5. THE COWL DRESS: INTERNAL CONSTRUCTION DETAIL.
In addition to the technical resolution of the design, prototyping as a research method includes development and refinement of the research objectives and questions through the evolution of each garment. In this case, critical reflection throughout the iterations of The Cowl Dress experiment raised concerns about the accessibility of the ‘futuring’ capacities383 of the garment. For example, given that domestic sewing skills are no longer widely learnt or practiced,384 it could not be assumed that traditional construction methods, like wide seam allowances, will be readily recognised as indicators of the garment’s affordances for re-modelling and repair, and consequently, that the wearer has the skills necessary to act upon them.
383. Fry, Design futuring: sustainability, ethics, and new practice.
384. Goworek et al., "Consumers’ attitudes towards sustainable fashion: Clothing usage and disposal.",
Gwilt, "What prevents people repairing clothes?: an investigation into community-based approaches to sustainable product service systems for clothing repair.",
However, as indicated by the Survey of Consumer Practices in Australia survey previously conducted, an inclination exists within some consumers to learn how to extend the life of their clothes through such strategies (see Chapter 3), and is discussed further in the following paragraphs.
Reflecting on this during the experiment led to a further question: How then might the garment enable the uptake of sewing skills for repair and re-modelling? The process of attempting to answer this question led to an additional experiment that explored the mechanics of scripting (see Chapter 3) as well as a method for disseminating sustain-able design alongside methods for up-skilling future wearers in order to extend the effective use phase of the garment. Here we see an example of how the research methods of literature review, surveying and design prototyping converge and a new avenue of investigation in support of the aims of the research study emerges: in this case, mechanisms that might be designed into the garment to up-skill wearers in simple acts of repair and re-modelling. Thus, the objectives of design prototyping within the research extends beyond those typical of a commercial practice (the resolution of the garment as functional and fashionable), to resolve how the garment might signal its ‘futuring’ capacities and encourage interaction between designers and wearers of fashion garments.
Investigations into ways in which garment design might enable the uptake of sewing skills for repair and re-modelling led to closer consideration of the capacities of the wearer to interact with the garment. From this arose a further question: how to allow for wearers’ variable capabilities in sewing skills? Research into existing self-directed garment construction tools and reflective analysis of my teaching practice suggested that a range of interactions from simple to advanced might be ’scaffolded’385 within the one garment. When making garments at home, highly skilled home sewers may design and produce their own garment patterns, however it is more usual that patterns are purchased from dressmaking retailers. Paper pattern designs are released seasonally by publishers, reflecting the current fashion trends. Home sewers select a style from the collection and purchase a tissue paper print of the pattern pieces which they cut to the required size. Included with the paper pattern are suggestions for suitable fabric types and illustrated fabric cutting and sewing instructions. To assist home sewers to select a pattern appropriate to their skills, publishers like McCalls,386 rate their patterns by level of difficulty (Table 4.3).387 As the description for the ‘advanced’ patterns implies, there is a correlation between the degree of difficulty and the look of the finished garment. More advanced skills are needed to create finer quality garments consistent with a ‘couture’ style.
385. Elizabeth B.-N. Sanders, "Scaffolds for Building Everyday Creativity," in Designing effective communications: creating contexts for clarity
and meaning, ed. Jorge Frascara (New York : Garsington: Allworth, 2006).
386. McCalls also publish Vogue, New Look and Simplicity patterns.
387. Meg Carter, ”Can Beginners Sew Vogue Patterns?," McCall’s Blog, McCall Pattern Company, Novemeber 1, 2017, accessed September 10, 2018, http://blog.mccall.com/2017/11/01/can-beginners-sew-vogue-patterns/.
TABLE 4.3. CONTEMPORARY DESCRIPTIONS PROVIDED BY MCCALLS TO RATE THE DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY OF THEIR PAPER DRESS PATTERNS.
During the development of The Cowl Dress, I pondered whether garments designed to be later re- modelled would benefit from a similar rating scale. In addition to guiding the home sewer, for the designer, the potential advantage of a rating system for either home manufacture or re-modelling, is being able to design within ranges of defined capabilities. This permits the resulting collection to comprise both simple and complex looking styles with correspondingly simple and complex methods of (re-)manufacture. However, this approach is unlikely to adequately support a garment that may pass between wearers of differing capabilities a number of times throughout its lifetime. To complicate matters, The Cowl Dress was an attempt to design a garment that could be made at home and later re-modelled, possibly requiring two rating scales, since skills needed for re-modelling are not necessarily as advanced as those required for manufacturing. I considered that a rating scale might introduce a complication that could well undermine the objectives of the research. Insofar as wearers may not be to effectively grade their own skills or may perceive a scale of skills to be off-putting. Therefore, the potential to cater for a range of levels through the scaffolding of skills within one garment is investigated in The Cowl Dress. Within The Living Wardrobe series, every garment has discrete life- extension actions that can be undertaken at all skill levels.
Grade Definition
VERY EASY The easiest and quickest patterns to sew. Great for beginner or the experienced
sewer with limited time available. Expect limited construction details, hand sewing and fitting. Easy-to-sew fabrics are recommended.
EASY Easy-to-sew patterns but with more details than the Very Easy category. Perfect for
those with limited sewing knowledge or little time. Expect a wide variety of sewing procedures—there will be more details when the techniques are simple and fewer details when the techniques are more involved. Some fitting knowledge required.
AVERAGE These patterns are perfect if you have more time to sew, and more experience
sewing. Look for challenging designer techniques, tailoring, unique construction details. Expect more fitting and inner construction. Find more variety in fabrics from the stretchiest knits to synthetic leathers and suedes.
ADVANCED The finest patterns featuring the best of European and American Couture. Perfect
for those who like the sewing challenge of professional tailoring and fine couture techniques. Expect intricate fashion shaping, hidden construction details, couture inner construction, fine touches of hand sewing and bias draping.