Análisis de la expresión de genes codificantes de proteasas vacuolares

 Alan Ranger 

Published by Mushroom Models Softback format, 88 pages ISBN 9788365281722  www.mmpbooks.biz

Published by MMP Books / Stratus softback format, 32 pages

ISBN 9788365281609  www.mmpbooks.biz

54

 1 : 3 5 H o n g M o d e l ’ s k i t b y M a r k N e v i l l e

58

ZSU-23-4M/MZ

 This edge protruding appears correct  when compared  with reference.

I found filler required on the leading edges of both sides due to a difficult fit.

 The guns are an intricate and demanding

assembly but look good when finished, some may   wish to add firing cables and coolant hose but are

barely visible.

 The guns can elevate to the desired position freely  until you fix the top cover (not in place here).

Rear engine deck covers require plenty of sanding and dry fits to obtain a good fit  The design of assembly is standard; lower hull

‘tub’ and large single piece upper hull. Things do start to get a little more complicated with the turret and cannons.

Photoetch is good and fits well, what we’ve come to expect included in modern kits.

 A retaining chain should be present at either end of these fold-down flaps.

 A large hole need drilling for the radar unit. No mention of this on the instructions and would be easier done from inside the turret roof before assembly.

Many turret fittings require locating holes that aren’t mentioned.

Idler wheels are a very  sloppy fit; some packing required and plenty of drying time for  the adhesive.

 Transpose the part numbers for the suspension arms to the opposite side!

I’m no track-snob but the kit’s individual links with two separate guide-horns per link? No thanks. Masterclub produce some great resin and white metal track sets. I struggled with the resin pins provided so cut my own from 0.4mm brass rod. The tyres are a snug fit between the guide horns, in hinesight a little sanding of the tyre’s back edge would have helped.

Separate relief  detail parts needed blending in with some Mr  Surfacer here.

60

 Tow fittings left an unusual

champhered gap around their base, I used Magic Sculpt putty to create the heavy weld seams seen in reference images.

 These parts are wooden in reality, a couple of swipes with a razor saw blade added a convincing grain texture.

 The upper hull isn’t glued in place at this point; a little sanding of the edges under the sponsons made for a better 

 The driver’s h atch is a separate assembly with internal detail allowing the option of posing it open, no internal driver’s position parts are offered though.

I won’t go into any details about the ZSU-23, (Zenitnaya Samokhodnaya Ustanovka  / self propelled anti-aircraf t system) I

don’t really know a great deal but I just love the way they look and if you’ve seen any movie footage of them you realise  what a formidable weapon they can be

against air and ground targets with those 23mm auto cannons. This is all about the kit, which, to be honest, is a real mixed bag and a bit of a pig to build at times.

 As a general over view I’d say the instructions are riddled with mistakes (wrong numbered parts, location holes required without mention) and location points either too large or too small and some sloppy fit in places...but...it’s not all bad. The presentation of the kit is nice and the moulding sharp and clean with a high level of detail which is pretty 

comprehensive and accurate when compared to reference images (a good place to look is

http://www.primeportal.net and our very  own back issue 81 with a reworked  version of Dragon’s old kit). Clear parts

are provided for the vision blocks and optic parts and a nice little photoetched fret ads some welcome finesse. Decals provide a good selection of versions from Eastern Block countries to more modern Gulf War examples all presented nicely  on a colour fold-out sheet.

I’ve deliberately held off adding any of the missing small details to show exactly   what comes from the kit, but they are

quite minor; some wiring of the radar unit and marker lights and a clamp on the front glassis for the tow cable (which I haven’t fitted but is supplied as a soft

copper cable). The kit tracks; I just couldn’t face assembling or cleaning up three tiny parts per link, the detail is good and I have seen them assembled by  braver souls than me to good effect. We tracked(!) down a set of the Masterclub  white metal versions (resin are also

available) and very nice they are too, with the realism you get from the ‘sit’ of metal links hard to beat.

We shouldn’t forget this is Hong’s first kit, none of the challenges it throws at you take a great deal of correction, they’re mainly frustrating and slow you down such as wrongly numbered parts and poor location points but this kind of adds to the satisfaction of seeing the finished model on the bench ready for paint.

I primed the Shilka with Mr Finishing Surfacer black which not only serves as an excellent base coat but a pre-shade. Over this I applied the base green (AK’s Russian Green oversprayed with some transparent blue ink in places) and sand camo allowing the black to show through in shaded areas.

 Although there are many ‘out of the bottle’ effects to create dust I’ve used

 water based gouache for many years with good results. The colours above (cadmium red, cadmium yellow, lamp black and zinc white) are all I ever use for various tones. You can return to your pallet and re-work the dry paint with  water at a later date.

I first airbrush the gouache (mixed to a milky  consistency) but to do this you need a very matt base coat. This is then manipulated with a wet or  moistened paintbrush (using water) and allowed to  wash and accumulate as dust would and drying to a  very matt and chalky finish. The lower hull received a much heavier coat with a less diluted mixture. I was  working closely to some colour reference images of 

ex-Syrian Army vehicles where the dust had a slight pink cast to it which I exaggerated knowing this  would tone down with the subsequent processes.

 The next step was a filter of heavily diluted (enamel thinner) yellow ochre oil paint. Working on small sections or panels dampened with the mix this helps harmonise the colours and while still damp is a good surface to apply pin washes to. The washes are done with burnt umber and black oil colours and start to give depth to the details. A benefit of using the water  based gouache is that it isn’t affected by enamel thinners and can be  worked over very quickly.

I worked round each section with the same techniques. I find breaking a model into sections for the main weathering and shading processes allows experimentation as you go, if something doesn’t go to plan it’s also easier to rectify a single section than the whole model!

 The kit’s wheels are nicely detailed with various washes enhancing the contrasts. The layers of effects can be seen on the side of the hull, note the dirt splashing and splatters created by loading a brush with the gouache and blowing a shot of air through it with the airbrush.

Here we can see the effects of the gouache, filters and washes taking shape. Note the scratches and scuffs in the dirt through to the base colours, a damp cocktail stick easily achieves this touch of realism.

My reference showed some damp areas accumulated on the front glacis  which were replicated with less diluted washes.

62

Before placing the stowage I added some gloss varnish under where the oil barrel  would be placed to represent spilled diesel.

 A graphite stick (or a soft pencil works equally   well) picks out areas of highest wear su ch as

hatches, crew access and handles. The handles on the rear deck are a little chunky  and may be better replaced with finer brass rod.

Gun barrels also received the polishing powder  treatment and I buffed some areas of the turret  with my finger which gives a very slight sheen to

areas where the dust would be brushed away by  the crew. Now all that’s left to do is place the stowage, figure and sort the light lenses.

Back to the graphite powder (Ushi Van Der  Rosten’s ‘Iron’ was used in this case) to highlight the running contact surface of the tracks.

 The tracks were painted in place as the dust tones needed to match the rest of the lower hull plus I find I always hit snags fitting painted tracks to a finished model.

Lifecolor’s ‘European Asphalt’ I find is a good match for old rubber on the road wheels, these were easy to paint by pulling the track to one side. I final dusting in select areas with pigment powder (a mixture of Brick  Dust and Light Earth) and we’re almost done with  weathering and ready to detail paint the tools and add

the stowage.

My final steps of wear and tear involve adding some bare metal effects to selected edges and areas of high wear. A Micro-Brush and graphite powder was used to give a subtle sheen.

Lacking a dash of colour I decided to liven things up  with the stowage. The resin oil barrel is from an old MiG

Productions set and the carpet from the excellent Reality in Scale range which is printed on a flock  material. The water bottles are from Meng and the discarded shirt made from Magic Sculpt.

64

So now we have two modern Shilka kits to chose from (we featured the Meng kit in issue 90). This kit from Hong is for a modeller with some experience who can handle mistakes on the instructions with some tricky fit and position of parts. Ultimately I’m happy with the look  of the finished model, the detail is good, in fact

excellent in places and the kit should rate as a very  commendable first effort from Hong.