Control de enfriadores de agua

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172 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBING

Use a jackhammer to break up the concrete in the trench,

taking care not to damage any of the existing plumbing lines. Wear gloves, eye and ear protection, and a dust mask. Remove the concrete for disposal. Remove dirt (technically called granular fi ll) in the trench, starting at the main waste-vent stack.

Create a fl at-bottomed trench that slopes toward the main

stack at 1_{⁄4" per foot. The soil will hold up the drain lines, so it}

is important to create an even surface. Use a hand tamper to tamp down the soil if it has been disturbed. Tape a 1" spacer to the end of a 4-ft. level to create a handy measuring tool for checking the proper slope. Set the soil aside to use for back fi ll.

Cut the drain line or main stack (depending on how deep

the drain line is) using a reciprocating saw (or a snap cutter). Support the main waste-vent stack before cutting. Use a 2 x 4 and duct tape for a plastic stack, or riser clamps for a cast iron stack. If cutting the horizontal drain line, cut as close as possible to the stack.

Cut into the stack above the cleanout, and remove the

pipe and fi ttings. Wear rubber gloves, and have a large plastic bag and rags ready, as old pipes and fi ttings may be coated with sewer sludge. Remember that no waste water can fl ow in the house while the pipes are cut open. Turn off the water and drain toilets to prevent accidental use.

1" spacer

Cleanout

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Cut and test-fi t a new cleanout and long sweep TY combo

assembly, dry-fi tting it to the drain stack and the horizontal drain line to the street. Make any needed adjustments and then solvent-glue the fi ttings and new pipe into a single assembly.

Clean the outside of the old pipes thoroughly and apply

primer. Also apply primer and solvent glue to the female surfaces of the union fi ttings in the assembly. Slide the fi tting assembly over the primed ends of the drain stack and the drain line at the same time. This requires a little bit of play in one or both of the lines so you can manipulate the new assembly. If your existing pipes will not move at all, you’ll need to use a banded coupling on the drain stack to seal the gap.

Cut and fi t the components of the new drain line one piece at a time, starting at the stack. Use strings or boards to outline the

wet wall, so vent placement is correct. Drain lines underground must be a minimum of 2". Use 3" × 2" reducing Ys to tie the shower drain line and the sink drain line into the toilet drain line. Install vertical drain and vent lines that are long enough to protrude well above the level of the fi nished fl oor.

New cleanout TY combo Vent Sink drain Vent Main stack Toilet drain Shower drain (continued)

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174 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBING

Check for leaks by pouring water into each new drain pipe. If

the joints appear sound, contact your building department and arrange for your inspection (you must do this prior to covering the pipes). Plug the pipe openings with rags to prevent sewer gas from escaping. Note: Some local municipalities require an

air test as well.

Backfi ll around the pipes with the soil dug from the

trench. Mix and pour new concrete to cover the trench, and trowel smooth. Allow the concrete to cure for 3 days. Some municipalities may require that isolation membrane be wrapped around vertical pipes where they will be surrounded by concrete—check with your local inspector.

Build the wet wall from 2 × 6 lumber. The sill plate should

be pressure treated, but the other members may be SPF. Notch the sill plate so the vent pipes clear it easily. Use masonry anchors or concrete nails and a powder-actuated nailer to attach the plate.

Run 2" vent pipes through notches in the studs. Assemble

with vent T and 90° fi ttings. The 2" pipes are larger than required, but using the same size as the drain lines eliminates the need for reducing fi ttings, and makes for less waste. The 90° fi ttings are typically less expensive than the vent elbows.

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Route the vent pipe to a point beneath a wall cavity running

from the basement to the attic. Or, if there is another vent line closer that you can tie into (not very likely), go ahead and do that.

Run vent pipe up through the fl oors above and either

directly out through the roof or tie it to another vent pipe in the attic. Remove sections of wall surface as needed to bore holes for running the vent pipe through wall plates. Feed the vent pipe up into the wall cavity from the basement. Wedge the vent pipe in place while you solvent-glue the fi ttings. Support the vent pipe at each fl oor with plastic pipe hangers installed horizontally. Stuff fi berglass insulation into holes around pipes. Do not replace any wallcoverings until you have had your fi nal inspection.

Install the water supply plumbing.

Compared to the drain-vent plumbing, this will seem remarkably easy. Follow the instructions on page 169, but adjust the layout to conform to your fi xtures.

Nail guard

176 ■ COMPLETE GUIDE TO PLUMBING