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Denim fabric can be define as a warp faced twill fabric made from 100% cotton containing havey weight indigo dyed warp yarn and undyed weft yarn the coun of yarn used varied between 6’s to 12’s.

In today’s fasion a special place is occupied by the denim, fasions.

The spread of denim culture all over the world brought with it a trend of a fast changing fashions the finish of this denim in the key perameter. The main part of the globle production of denim garment-that is aroud 800 million pairs of jeans on a yearly bases is passing through finishing laundries all over the world where they are givien the desire fashionable look.

Denim garments have also formed a significant part of the apparel export basket from India. The stone wash effect is most popular abrasion effect on the garments obtained by the locally removing the surface bound indigo dye. This reveals the white interior of the yarn. One after an other several washes where introduce such as stone wash, acid wash, moon wash, monkey wash, show wash, white wash, mud wash etc. over the last 6-8 years India has a probably since the most domestic and the exciting changes in the washing of denim washing.

Garments washing place important role to provide fashion and the functionality elements. In garment washing the seams, waist bands, pockets, cuffs etc can be given different effect. The processors however face the several problems and hence the need to use the right chemical in denim garments processing is very essential.

Traditional desizing is performed by using detergent and sodha or hydrochloric acid are axidative desizing agents which is associated with many drawbacks and limitations. Due to uncontrolled and non-specific reactions, the cellulose material gets damage and losses strength. With the introduction of enzyme based desizing process, the limitations and drawback of treditionals desizing process can be overcome. The enzymatic desizing process is performed by the alpha amylase enzyme.

ADVANTAGES OF ENZYMATIC DESIZING OVER TRADITIONAL

DESIZING:-• Due to very specific reactions of enzyme, there is no adverse effect on cellulose, there for batter strength retention.

• Process time of desizing can be reduce.

• Neutralization is not required because same processing conditions are required in next process there for zero salt formation in ETP.

• Saving of energy as desizing takes place at moderate temperature.

• Feel of fabric is much softer and less hairiness on the fabric.

RECIPE AND

Strip SAL 4 (thrmo stable alpha amylase):0.5-1%(on weight of garments)lub pro vx (creas inbitor ):0.5-1gm/ltr.

Treat at 80-85C and ph -6.5for 30min.

STONE

Still the most famous of all washings. The jeans are

when the final quality inspectors at the jeans factory forget to clean the pockets, you may even find some residue of these stones in the pockets of your new jeans. During the washing process these stones will scrap off a thin layer of the denim does showing some of the white threads from the part of the cloth where the indigo dyeing stuff was not able to penetrate. It also creates and effect called brilliance. You may also encounter words like deep stone or super stonewash, which are an indication of how long the jeans have been stonewashed. Ergo: The longer the wash, the lighter the jeans.

In traditional washing process volcanic rocks are pumice stones are added to the garments during washing as abradant. Due to rings dyeing and heavy abrasions, fading is more apparent but less uniform. The degree of colour fading depends on the garments to stone ratio, washing time, size of stone, material to liquor ration and load of garments. Normally after desizing, stone wash process start with the pumice stones addition in rotary drum type garment washer. Gernally 1-2 kg stone is used for 1 kg of garment. The process time varies from 60-11-2- minutes. They are many limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process, which can be over come by using anzymes base washing technology.

Enzyme

The cellulose anzymes are used in washing. They act on the cotton yarn and there by facilitate the abrasions of the indigo dyeing from the yarn surface. The cellulose hydrolyses cellulose, yelding sloble produce sach as a short-chain polysaccharibes and glucose. The action loosens the indigo lyer, which is then more easily to remove by the chemical abrasions. Use of cellulose overcome must of the disadvantages of stone while yelding the desire softening and “worn” look.

They are two cetagories of the enzyme, acid cellulose and nature cellulose. The nature anzyme gives less back staining. The latter property is responsible for a more reproducible finish from different wash.

CLASSIFICATION OF CELLULOSE ANZYME:-1: Acid cellulose (cellulose 450 AP)

It works best in the Ph range of 4.5-5.5 and exhibite optimine activity 50oC 2: Natural cellulose (cellucom 110 OM)

It works best at Ph 6 however its activity is not adversely affected in the range of Ph 6-8 and show maximum activity at 550Oc.

RECIPE AND

CONDITIONS:-1: FOR ACID CELLULASE

ANZYME:-Cellucos 450 AP: 0.5-1%(on weight of garment) Lube pro vx (creases inhibitor) : 0.5-1gm/ltr White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) : 1-2gm/ltr Treat at 50 Oc and Ph 5 for 30-45 min

2: FOR NATURAL CELLULASE

ANZYME:-Cellucom 110 OM : 0.5-1% (on weight of garment) Lube PRO VX (crease inhibitor) : 0.5-1%gm/ltr White MRC (anti-redepositing agent) : 1-2gm/ltr Treat at 550 Oc and Ph 6-8 for 30-60 min

ADVANTAGES OF ANZYME

WASHING:-1: Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained without severe damage to the surface of the yarn.

2: Inexpensive, low-grade fabric quality can be finish to a top quality product by the removal of the hairiness fluff and pills etc.

3: Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.

4: Batter feel to touch and increases bellows and luster.

5: More re-productible effect can be obtained.

ENZYME AND STONE

The cellulose anzyme can also be combine with the pumice stone. This is recommendable for heavy stone wash finish. The same result can be reach in a shorter time. Around 0.5kg pumice stone is used for 1kg garment and 50% of the normal doze age to the enzyme is used.

In this process, as a stone oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hydrochlorite or KMNO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition.

This colouration is usually more apparent depending on the strength of the bleach liquor, quantity, temperature and treatment time.

RECIPE AND

CONDITIONS:-Sodium hypochlorite “1-3kg/ltr” available chlorine Lube PRO VX (crease inhibitor) : 0.5-1%gm/ltr

Adjust Ph 9.5-10 and treated for 10-30 min depending upon the fading

LIMITATION:-1: Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach the same level of bleaching in repeated runs. When desire level to bleaching reach the time span available to stop the bleaching is very narrow.

2: Due to the harshness of chemical, it may case damage to the cellulose resulting in sever strength losses and / or breaks or pinhole at the seam, pocket, etc.

3: Required antichlor treatment.

4: Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.