GUÍAS DE ANÁLISIS DE FUENTE DOCUMENTAL – JURISPRUDENCIA

TO

P

N

O

TE

S

242

Coriander seed (Coriandrum sativum) Cypress, blue (Callitris columellaris) Lemon tea tree (Leptospermum petersonii) Melissa (Melissa officinalis)

Basil (Ocimum basilicum) Fennel, sweet (Foeniculum vulgare) Mandarin, red (Citrus reticulate) Orange, sweet (Citrus sinensis) Spearmint (Mentha spicata)

Geranium, rose (Pelargonium roseum) Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Palmarosa (Cymbopogon martinii) Ylang ylang absolute (Cananga odorata) Ylang ylang extra (Cananga odorata) Ylang ylang I (Cananga odorata) Ylang ylang II (Cananga odorata) Ylang ylang III (Cananga odorata) Galbanum (Ferula galbaniflua) Lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Verbena (Lippia citriodora)

Bergamot (Citrus aurantium var. bergamia) Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus)

Eucalyptus, lemon (Eucalyptus citriodora) Grapefruit, pink (Citrus paradisi) Grapefruit, ruby red (Citrus paradisi) Grapefruit, white (Citrus paradisi) Lemon (Citrus limon)

Lime (distilled) (Citrus aurantifolia) Lime (expressed) (Citrus aurantifolia) Orange, bitter (Citrus aurantium var. amara) Orange, blood (Citrus sinensis)

Tagetes (Tagetes bipinata) Yuzu (Citrus junos)

Essential Oil/Absolute/Extract This chart lists some of the essential oils, absolutes, and CO2 extracts most commonly used in perfume

blending. The oils, absolutes, and extracts are arranged by their note classification (top, middle, or base; see left) and you will also find key words for their aroma to help you choose the right scents for your blend.

Aroma Notes Woody, green Woody, sweet Woody, sweet Woody, warm Woody, fresh Woody, sweet Woody, green, citrus Earthy, herbaceous Earthy, floral, green Earthy, floral, green Herbaceous, green Herbaceous, sweet Herbaceous, fresh Herbaceous, warm Herbaceous, green Herbaceous, warm, spicy Herbaceous, fresh Herbaceous, spicy Herbaceous, warm Herbaceous, warm Sweet, spicy

Sweet, beeswax and honey Sweet, fruity, slightly earthy Sweet, herbaceous, warm Sweet, fruity

Sweet, spicy Sweet, spicy Sweet, balsamic Sweet, lemon, fresh Sweet, floral, orange-like

Essential Oil/Absolute/Extract

Angelica root CO2 (Angelica archangelica)

Cedarwood, Virginia (Juniperus virginiana) Cypress, blue (Callitris columellaris) Ginger lily (Hedychium spicatum) Juniper berry CO2 (Juniperus communis)

Palo santo (Bursera graveolens) Petitgrain absolute (Citrus aurantium) Helichrysum (Helichrysum italicum) Lotus, pink absolute (Nelumbo nucifera) Lotus, white absolute (Nelumbo nucifera) Calendula CO2 (Calendula officinalis)

Clary sage (Salvia sclarea)

Cypress leaf (Cupressus sempervirens) Davana (Artemisia pallens)

Geranium absolute (Pelargonium x asperum) Marjoram (Origanum majorana)

Myrtle, green (Myrtus communis) Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Sage (Salvia officinalis)

Seaweed absolute (Fucus vesiculosus) Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Beeswax absolute

Blackcurrant bud absolute (Ribes nigrum) Chamomile, blue (Matricaria chamomilla) Chamomile, Roman (Anthemis nobilis) Clove bud (Eugenia caryophyllata) Fennel, sweet (Foeniculum vulgare) Fir, balsam (Abies balsamea) Lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) Mandarin, red (Citrus reticulate) Note Classification

Middle note and Base note Middle note and Base note Middle note and Top note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note

Middle note and Base note Middle note and Top note Middle note

Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note

Middle note and Top note Middle note

Middle note and Top note Middle note Woody, smoky Woody Woody, green Woody, warm Woody, sweet Woody, sweet Woody, warm Woody, warm, sweet Woody, warm, sweet Sweet, vanilla-like Sweet, soft, vanilla-like Sweet, green

Sweet, wine-like aroma Sweet, warm, deep Sweet, smoky, warm Sweet, rich, warm Sweet, rich, warm Earthy, woody

Amber oil (Oleum succini /Anbar) Amyris (Amyris balsamifera)

Angelica root CO2 (Angelica archangelica)

Cedarwood, Atlas (Cedrus atlantica) Cedarwood, Virginia (Juniperus virginiana) Frankincense (Boswellia carterii)

Sandalwood (Santalum album) See page 128 Sandalwood, Hawaiian (Santalum paniculatum) Sandalwood, Australian (Santalum spicatum) Balsam of Peru (Myroxylon pereirae) Benzoin resin oil (Styrax tonkinensis) Cassie absolute (Acacia farnesiana) Cognac, green (Vitis vinifera)

Labdanum absolute (Cistus ladaniferus) Tabacco absolute (Nicotiana tabacum) Vanilla absolute (Vanilla planifolia) Vanilla bourbon CO2 (Vanilla planifolia)

Agarwood CO2 (Aquilaria agallocha) Base note

Base note Base note Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note

Base note Base note Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note

Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note

Base note Base note Base note Base note

Note Classification Aroma Notes Essential Oil/Absolute/Extract

MIDDL

E N

O

TE

S

BA

SE N

O

TE

S

131

Perfumes and Aromatherapy

Base note Base note Base note Base note Base note Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note and Middle note Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note

Base note Base note

Base note and Middle note Base note

Note Classification

Earthy, resinous Earthy, mossy, deep

Earthy, rich, deep, sweet, intense Earthy, rich, deep, sweet, intense Earthy, sweet, woody

Earthy, smoky, dark Floral, sweet Floral, sweet Floral, sweet, fruity Floral, sweet, fruity Floral, soft, green Herbaceous, warm Herbaceous, sweet Herbaceous, salty, mossy Musky

Aroma Notes

Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha) Oakmoss absolute (Evernia prunastri) Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin) Patchouli CO2 (Pogostemon cablin)

Spikenard (Nardostachys jatamansi) Vetiver (Vetiveria zizanioides)

Jasmine absolute (Jasminum grandiflorum) Jasmine CO2 (Jasminum grandiflorum)

Osmanthus absolute (Osmanthus fragrans) Tuberose absolute (Polianthes tuberosa) Violet leaf absolute (Viola odorata) Cistus (Cistus ladaniferus) Hay absolute (Foin coupe)

Seaweed absolute (Fucus vesiculosus) Ambrette seed CO2 (Hibiscus abelmoschus)

Essential Oil/Absolute/Extract Middle note and Top note

Middle note Middle note

Middle note and Top note Middle note

Middle note

Middle note and Base note Middle note and Base note Middle note

Middle note

Middle note and Top note Middle note

Middle note Middle note Middle note

Middle note and Base note Middle note

Middle note Middle note Middle note

Middle note and Top note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Middle note Note Classification Sweet, herbaceous Sweet, earthy Sweet, floral, rosy Sweet, warm, citrus Sweet, vanilla-like Floral, spicy Floral, sweet Floral, sweet Floral, sweet Floral, sweet

Floral, fresh, sweet, herbaceous Floral, green, fresh

Floral, deep Floral, intense, rosy Floral, soft, rosy Floral, fruity, sweet Spicy, woody Spicy, fresh, sweet Spicy, floral, green Spicy, warm Spicy, woody Spicy, fresh, citrus Spicy, warm Spicy, fresh Spicy, sweet Rich, butter aroma Rich, chocolate aroma Rich, coffee aroma Aroma Notes

Melissa (Melissa officinalis)

Petitgrain, mandarin (Citrus reticulate) Rose otto (Rosa damascena)

Tagetes (Tagetes bipinata)

Tonka bean absolute (Dipteryx odorata) Champaca CO2 (Michelia champaca)

Jasmine absolute (Jasminum grandiflorum) Jasmine CO2 (Jasminum grandiflorum)

Jasmine concrete (Jasminum grandiflorum) Jasmine sambac absolute (Jasminum sambac) Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Lavender absolute (Lavandula angustifolia) Orange blossom absolute (Citrus aurantium) Rose absolute (Rosa damascena)

Rose de mai absolute (Rosa centifolia) Tuberose absolute (Polianthes tuberosa) Caraway CO2 (Carum carvi)

Cardamom (Elettaria cardamomum) Carnation absolute (Dianthus caryophyllus) Cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) Coriander seed (Coriandrum sativum) Elemi (Canarium luzonicum) Ginger (Zingiber officinale) Pepper, black (Piper nigrum) Peppercorn, pink (Schinus molle) Butter CO2

Cocoa absolute (Theobroma cacao) Coffee bean oil (Coffea arabica L.) Essential Oil/Absolute/Extract

244

243

Creating and storing