The overarching objective was to determine the efficacy of biopolymer fibres in creative aesthetic application. This objective consisted of three areas of inquiry to determine the following:
designer-makers‘ perceptions of biopolymer fibres in relation to sustainability the creative potential of biopolymers through practical experimentation the wellbeing potential for use in knitted textile accessories
Identifying and adopting suitable methods for these aims drew on a range of established social science methods that are used in art and design research practice. These were;
TRIANGULATION METHODOLOGY MY PRACTICE Action Research Reflection-in-action Craft Methods Material selection SUSTAINABILITY Designer-maker Practice Reflection -in-action Qualitative Data
WELLBEING Needs Based Design Advanced Knit Technology Qualitative
Data Focus Group
case study evidence of craft models of practice in current use by ecologically principled designer-makers,
interviews with ecological and holistic designer-makers to establish their viewpoints in relation to materials selection
practice-led reflective action (Schön 1983, and McNiff 1988) experimentation to design, develop and manufacture knitted textile products made with selected biopolymer textile yarns.
focus group and user survey feedback to evaluate other people‘s perceptions of wellbeing efficacy in prototype knitted biopolymer textile products.
The use of multi methods was employed to gain multiple perspectives. Open dialogue interviews, questionnaires and surveys were devised to include other designer-makers perspectives. To make the research outcomes (prototype products) publicly accessible, ethical considerations were addressed by inviting evaluation-in-use views from
participatory users, to involve, inform and inspire others. The emergent qualitative data was analysed to correlate findings from within the practical actions and to demonstrate ways of applying a craft model of practice. These three actions constituted a
triangulation methodology to corroborate findings of the practical research 3.3 Action Research
Frayling (1993) stated that action research methodology can be applied within a practice-orientated research tradition because: ‘Action research is about two things; action (what you do) and research (how you learn and explain what you do)’. This consists of a dual role that enabled insight into the interconnected processes between thoughts and actions that constitute a working method.
The action research method applied to address the first aim was practical
experimentation using raw fibres. Systematic experimentation was applied to raw fibre biopolymers to:
Gain new knowledge and understanding of the performance characteristics of biopolymer fibres and yarns through tacit handling.
In meeting this aim, I identified the source and origins of biopolymer raw fibres using research papers, journals and websites including their development in a historical context. The findings were outlined in the literature review in chapter 2 and further discussion of the inherent characteristics of biopolymer fibres are explored extensively in Chapter 5.
It is understood that the experimental approach is a method in general use by designer- makers in materials selection and product development and reflects an understanding of the nature and behaviour of materials when being worked with. This understanding is gained from experience of the tacit handling and is referred to as a subjective meme by Francoise Tellier-Loumagne (2009:30) and is explored more fully in chapter 6.
I wanted to determine whether the impact that green biotechnology processes, used in the biopolymer production, could impart characteristics that benefit wellbeing creatively. Creative exploration of biopolymers could reveal motivating factors that could encourage designer-makers to change from using traditional natural fibres. Independent designer- makers (such as myself) were ideally situated to explore newly emergent fibres (Pittman and Townsend 2009), but they were not aware of their availability or the relevance of their inherent properties and characteristics. If ecologically principled designer-makers were to adopt biopolymer fibres, it would only occur if they were aware of both the inherent properties and the sustainable credentials.
The use of action research was an important part of understanding the boundaries and limitations of newly emergent fibres. This was undertaken to explore the aesthetic appeal and creative performance potential, essential in gaining tacit knowledge of the newly emergent biopolymer fibres.
The next research aim was to:
Identify ways of assessing newly emergent biopolymer fibres’ suitability for creative application.
It was my understanding prior to conducting my research that eco-aware designer- makers use a range of integrated design and making strategies in addressing issues of sustainability and that materials selection meant that designer-makers made an
This is a simplistic reaction to a complex and interconnected area. Fletcher (2008:5) details the lifecycle impacts that relate to fibre choices and she states that the use of design strategies can have a greater bearing on use and the lifecycle of textile products. ‘This does not mean that choice of fibre is unimportant - on the contrary it is central to what a textile or garment is - only that it is one amid many interconnected factors influencing overall product sustainability’(ibid). In addressing this factor in my research it would be necessary to undertake practical, aesthetic exploration of newly emergent biopolymer fibres to demonstrate their creative potential, but to do so with craft practice that was informed by qualitative data gleaned from designer-makers‘ integrated strategic design and manufacture process. For that reason it was important to conduct open discussion type interviews with designer-makers.
It was a further intention to explore and question the reasoning within materials selection and to establish barriers (if there were any) to knowledge of newly emergent biopolymer fibres. Additionally, I wanted to challenge designer-makers to adopt informed strategies in selection of biopolymer fibres and yarns. Discussion of the potential of newly emergent fibres is presented in chapter 5 The designer-maker integrated strategies is presented in chapter 4 case studies and the practical
experiments with raw fibres are set out in Appendix B. Full transcripts of the interviews are contained in Appendix D
Practice-led research enquiry should not be entirely singular in investigation. It is strengthened if it can be verified by other practitioners;
The issue of shared standards is important, but in alternative research paradigms different terms have been developed which are more suitable for human enquiry, and enquiry that is ‘real world’ and practice-based. (Tesch 1990:304)
The selection, interviews and analysed responses from twenty five designer-makers established both the perceived issues, strategic approaches and materials selection in achieving sustainable textile practice. To ensure that widely considered approach to the research issue, selection of appropriate designers was made through the size of the company, SMEs (small to medium enterprises of 4-11 employees) and independent craft based designer/makers that maintain control over production. It was important to identify designer-makers that used a crafted approach to their collections and/or had close
contact with their clients, as they would be more responsive to the potential of newly emergent biopolymer fibres.
The interviews took the form of an email survey that introduced the nature of the
research and contained 20 questions designed to interrogate their strategies. Examples of the questions are included in Appendix C. The survey was followed up by invitation to an open dialogue discussion with selected designer-makers. The criterion for selection was based on the type of responses to the initial questions. The discussions that emerged were designed to explore their perceptions of issues of sustainability and the nature of their strategies and approaches. A copy of the designer-makers transcripts is included in Appendix D. Qualitative data were used to ascertain the nature of the designer-makers‘ specific approaches to materials; advanced technology production techniques; design for specific client needs close customer contact; and also the nature of their craft in creating aesthetic appeal in their products. Following these discussions details of designer-maker practice was analysed independently and then in relation to my own practice. Emergent qualitative data indicated opportunities for me to reflect on designer-maker integrated practice as a craft model, differing designer-maker
viewpoints on achieving sustainable textile practice and the strategic approaches in commercial use. With this data I was then able to reflect upon my own practice which is explored in chapter 6.
The naturalistic enquiry process is considered to be appropriate (Lincoln and Guba, 1985 in Gray and Malins 2004:130) to research audience as trustworthiness
encompasses generalizability and can therefore be transferred to wider contexts. It has been used in this research as a discursive task where negotiation of shared approaches can be used to explore different perspectives on the same issues.
In addressing the final aim:
Explore the creative potential of biopolymer fibres by applying craft model of practice that could be used to exploit the wellbeing potential performance characteristics of biopolymer fibres.
Practical experiments with two selected biopolymer yarns were conducted to develop a craft method of practice and to exploit the creative potential of the yarns. Advanced kni technology production techniques were deployed to design for specific client needs and to fully explore the future processing capabilities of the yarns. Close user contact was
Acting
sought to establish needs and expectations of prototype products from potential customers and to explore how the nature of craft methods can be applied to create aesthetic appeal in wellbeing products.
McNiff (1999) described action research as a process of actions and reflections that inform and question each action and idea. I have adapted two of her diagrams that show the reflection processes in Table 2 below. These express the ongoing process that takes place when exploring and experimenting with new fibres or yarns in my practice.
Table 3-2 and 3-3 Reflection-in-action spirals adapted from McNiff (1988:44)
The reflective process has been used in progressive problem solving to address issues. The spiralling knowledge processes of interaction between explicit knowledge and tacit knowledge are often used in initiating innovation (Nonaka & Takeuchi, 1995). This process is extremely effective in real situations where no prior knowledge is available, for example with newly emergent fibres. This is likely to occur more in the future when technological advances generate further textile fibres and yarns.
My research study is about understanding the creative actions and interactions that enable designer-makers to gain tacit knowledge about new materials through practical actions. The objective is to identify the concepts and points within the creative
Planning Reflecting Observing Observe Plan Reflect Act Plan Observe Reflect Act Plan Observe Reflect Act
process where understanding and communicating actions within that process that can be used to inform or guide other‘s practice in craft methods of practice to achieve strategic sustainable textile design.
The process of action and reflection was adopted in my experimental practice, and was used to generate tacit knowledge that could guide further actions and inform the
direction and design development of a craft method. Adoption of a craft method of practice can initiate and extend creative knowledge innovation that can be applied to advanced technologies and future emergent textile fibres. This was applied to develop prototype biopolymer products. However the nature of the practice-led research needs to be corroborated against other designer-maker practice. Further research methods were necessary to provide a balanced view of the research findings.