LA SELECCIÓN DE ACTORES

When using Creative you will need to ensure the last has a flattening before you are able to start drawing. The flattening does not have to be technically correct, such as for production purposes, but it must not cross over at the heel positions otherwise this will restrict collection of pattern pieces.

Figure 7: An incorrect flattening, restricting piece collection.

Therefore, the following 3 options are available within this function to help you create the correct flattening for your last.

Default

This is used on lasts with little or no heel height, such as a Men’s Formal, and creates a default top flattening.

. Figure 8: A default Top Flattening.

Mid

A Mid Flattening will join the two halves half way along the centre line at the vamp point. This can be used on a lower heel height up to approximately 5cm as long as the back height positions are not crossing over, as shown in the example below.

Figure 9: A Mid Flattening

High

The High method will join the two halves at the ‘Vamp Point’ and separate the inside and outside back heights by a distance of 24mm, 12mm either side of the centre line.

This will be used on a higher heel of 5-9cm.

Figure 10: A High flattening showing the back height distance of 24mm

Halves

Selecting Halves produces the following dialog that requires you to type in a value for the thickness, usually 0.5 is acceptable for most styles. This will establish the allowance around the last for different leathers and linings. The offset works like an orange peel effect.

Figure 12: Dialog to enter the thickness of the new halves.

When you have selected Ok the halves will be drawn in 2d

Figure 13: Halves drawn in 2d.

Symmetry

The dialog that is produced with this option requires you to tick the boxes where you wish to apply symmetry etc.

Tick all the relevant boxes and enter any values you require. Select Apply and then Ok.

Figure 14: Applying symmetry properties.

Flattening

The dialog produced when selecting Flattening allows you to create the flattening you require by selecting the relevant method.

Figure 15: Create Flattening dialog.

Below is a brief explanation of each method.

Cursor

This gives you complete control over the flattening process. If you select this option you will be prompted to “Right click to show options”

Figure 16: right click menu to enable flattening.

Drag Outer

Use the cursor to pick up and drag the Outer half to the required position

Drag Inner

Use the cursor to pick up and drag the Inner Half to the required position.

Drag Both

Use the cursor to pick up and drag both halves to the required position.

Rotate Both

Use the cursor to rotate both halves to the required position.

Rotate Inner

Use the cursor to rotate the inner half to the required position.

Rotate Outer

Use the cursor to rotate the outer half to the required position.

Accept

This will accept the changes that you have made to the halves.

Quit

Select this to quit the process.

Use the tools described above to create the flattening you need and then accept to apply the changes.

Vamp Depth and Cursor

If you wish to apply a specific vamp depth, you can choose this option. You will need to enter a value in the Vamp Depth box on the dialog, which will then set the halves at that measurement. You will be prompted to “Right click to show options” which will produce the following menu.

Figure 17: Right click menu produced to enable flattening.

As described above you will now need to rotate the halves by cursor until you are happy with the position and then chose Accept to apply the new flattening.

Vamp Depth and Touch Points

If you wish to apply a specific vamp depth, you can choose this option. You will need to enter a value in the Vamp Depth box on the dialog, which will then set the halves at that measurement; the toes will then be rotated so that they are ‘kissed’ together. You will be then shown a preview of the flattening with a Continue/Quit create Form menu, select Ok if you are happy with the result to create the new flattening.

Figure 18: Continue/Quit create Form menu showing toes 'kissed' together Vamp Depth and Overlap

If you wish to apply a specific vamp depth and overlap the toes when they are ‘kissed’ together you can choose this option. You will need to enter a value in the Vamp Depth box and enter a value in the Overlap box on the dialog. This will then set the halves at that measurement. The toes will then be rotated so that they are ‘overlapped’ by the amount

entered. You will be then shown a preview of the flattening with a Continue/Quit create Form menu, select Ok if you are happy with the result to create the new flattening.

Figure 19: Continue/Quit create form menu showing the ‘overlap’ amount at the toe.

Vamp Depth and Slot

If you wish to apply a specific vamp depth, and keep the toe open for a sandal shoe, you can choose this option. You will need to enter a value in the Vamp Depth box and enter a value in the Slot box on the dialog. This will then set the halves at that measurement and the toes will be rotated so that they are ‘kissed’ together and the toe will be left open by the slot amount entered. You will then be shown a preview of the flattening with a Continue/Quit Create Form menu, select Ok if you are happy with the result to create the new flattening.

Figure 20: Continue/Quit create form menu showing the ‘slot’ amount at the toe.

Back Height and Cursor

This will enable you to apply a specific distance between the back heights and rotate the halves around the back heights to merge together. You will need to enter a value in the Back Height box on the dialog, which will then set the halves at that measurement, the toes will then need to be rotated to the desired position. You will be prompted to “Right click to show options” which will produce the following menu.

Figure 21: Right click menu produced to Accept Flattening

As described above you will now need to rotate the halves by cursor until you are happy with the position and then chose Accept to apply the new flattening.

Back Height and Vamp Depth

This enables you to apply a specific distance between the back heights, and a specific vamp depth, you can choose this

option. You will need to enter a value in the Vamp Depth box and enter a value in the Back Height box on the dialog.

This will then set the halves at that measurement. You will be then shown a preview of the flattening with a Continue/Quit Create Form dialog, select Ok if you are happy with the result to create the new flattening.

Figure 22: Continue/Quit create Form menu showing the Back Heights set at 6mm & VD 110 Open Toe

This option is usually used for sandals, for example, if the open toe box is checked and a slot value is typed in of 10, it will mean that the toe will be left open up to 10mm from the toe, causing less stress in the toe area.