Brown Breada, b
Apple Crumblea, b
Stout
a Johnson, M.M. 2006. The Irish pub cookbook. San Francisco: Chronicle Books. bRecipes from the Irish Kitchen at http://www.irishabroad.com
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Colcannon was customarily served for the harvest dinner and on Halloween in Ireland. For Halloween, coins were wrapped and buried in the dish so the children could find them as they ate.
The term “honeymoon” originated with the European custom of newly- weds drinking mead for the first lunar month following their wedding.
Scotch whisky (spelled without an e), is distilled from a blend of malted whiskey (in which the barley germinated before fermentation) and unmalted whiskey. Scotch is traditionally a much stronger, smokier-tasting beverage than Irish whiskey. Other alcoholic drinks popular in Britain are gin, Port (a brandy-fortified wine made in Portugal), and Sherry (a fortified wine from Spain). A less common beverage but still popular in some regions is mead, a type of honey wine made from the fermentation of honey and water. The Welsh prefer a stronger, highly spiced variety called metheglyn.
France. The cooking of France has traditionally
been divided into classic French cuisine (haute or grande cuisine) and provincial or regional cooking.17Classic French cooking is elegant and
formal, mostly prepared in restaurants using the best ingredients from throughout the country. Provincial cuisine is simpler fare made at home or local cafes featuring fresh local ingredients. Broadly speaking, butter and cream enriches many dishes in the northeastern and central regions of the country, while lard, duck fat, and goose fat flavor foods in the northwest and south central areas.61In the southeast olive oil is promi-
nent. Seafood and lamb are specialties of the north, while pork is common in the regions bor- dering Belgium and Germany. Beef and veal are favorites in the central areas, and in the south- ernmost regions near Spain, fish is a specialty. Cold weather fruits and vegetables are featured in northern dishes, while temperate, Mediterranean produce is the mainstay in southern areas. In the north foods are subtly seasoned. In the south garlic flavors many dishes.
The ancestors of most French Americans are from two of France’s northern provinces, Brittany and Normandy. Brittany, known as Bretagne, is located in the northwest; its shores are washed by the English Channel and the Bay of Biscay. Seafood, simply prepared, is common, and deli- cate Belon oysters are shipped throughout France. Mutton and vegetables from the region are said to have a naturally salty taste because of the salt spray. Apples are the prevalent fruit, and cider is widely exported.
Located along the English Channel and east of Brittany is Normandy, also known for its seafood and apples. Calvados, an apple brandy, is thought to be the mother of applejack, an alcoholic apple
drink used to clear the palate during meals in Louisiana. Another alcoholic drink produced in the region is Bénédictine, named after the Roman Catholic monks who still make it at the monastery in Fecamp. Normandy is also renowned for its rich dairy products; its butter is considered one of the best in France. Camembert, a semisoft cheese with a mild flavor, and Pont-l’Évêque, a hearty aromatic cheese, are produced in the area. Dishes from Normandy are often prepared with rich cream sauces. Crêpes, very thin, unleavened pancakes, originated in this region; they are typ- ically served topped with sweet or savory sauces or rolled with meat, poultry, fish or seafood, cheese, or fruit fillings.
Champagne, bordered by the English Channel and Belgium, has a cuisine influenced by the Germanic cultures. Beer is popular, as are sausages, such as andouille and andouillette, large and small intestinal casings stuffed with pork or lamb stomach. Charcuterie, cold meat dishes such as sausages, pâtés, and terrines, which often are sold in specialty stores, are especially good from this region. Pâté is a spread of finely ground, cooked, seasoned meats. A terrine is commonly made with leftover meats cut into small pieces,
Chapter 6: Northern and Southern Europeans 147
Tea time in Great Britain has become an afternoon meal, with small sandwiches, scones (on the second rack of the silver tray), and an assortment of cookies and pastries. Courtesy of Grossich and Partners
Tomatoes were introduced to Europe in 1523 from the New World. Reaction was mixed; some people thought they were poison- ous, while others believed they brought luck. Tomato- shaped pin cushions devel- oped from the latter superstition.
Belgians are renowned for their beers. One specialty ale is lambic, a fruity brew distinctive for its use of unmalted (raw) wheat and open-tank fermentation with wild yeast. Fresh cream in France, called fleurette, is often added to sauces or whipped for dessert. Also popular is crème fraîche, cream that is fermented until it is thick- ened and slightly tangy.
mixed with spices and a jelling substance, then baked in a loaf pan. Throughout the world, Champagne is probably best known for its natu- rally carbonated wines. Only sparkling wines produced in this region can be legally called champagne in France.
The province that borders Germany, Alsace- Lorraine, has been alternately ruled by France and Germany. One of its principal cities is Strasbourg. Many German foods are favored in the region, such as goose, sausages, and sauer- kraut. Goose fat is often used for cooking, and one of the specialties of the area is pâté de fois gras, pâté made from the enlarged livers of force- fed geese. Another famous dish is quiche Lorraine, pie pastry baked with a filling of cream, beaten eggs, and bacon. Alsace-Lorraine is a wine-producing area; its wines are similar to the German Rhine wines but are usually not as sweet. Distilled liquors produced in the region are kirsch, a cherry brandy, and the brandy eau de vie de framboise, made from raspberries.
Located south of Normandy and Brittany in the west-central part of France is Touraine, the province that includes the fertile Loire valley. Along the river one can see the beautiful chateaux or palaces built by the French nobility. Known as the “garden of France,” Touraine pro- duces some of the finest fruits and vegetables in the country. A dry white wine produced in the area is Vouvray. In the north-central region is the area surrounding the city of Paris called the Ile-de- France, the home of classic French cuisine. Some of the finest beef and veal, as well as a variety of fruits and vegetables, are produced in this fertile region. Brie, semisoft and mild flavored, is the best-known cheese of the area. Dishes of the Ile-de- France include lobster à l’américaine, lobster pre- pared with tomatoes, shallots, herbs, white wine, and brandy; potage St. Germain, pea soup; filet de bœuf béarnaise, filet of beef with a béarnaise sauce; and tarte tatin, an upside-down apple and caramel tart.
Located southeast of Paris is Burgundy, one of the foremost wine-producing regions of France. Burgundy’s robust dishes start to take on the flavor of southern France; they contain garlic and are often prepared with olive oil. Dijon, a princi- pal city, is also the name of the mustards of the region, prepared with white wine and herbs. Dishes of the area are escargot, snails (raised on grape vines) cooked in a garlic butter and served
in the shell; coq au vin, rooster or chicken cooked in wine; and bœuf bourguignon, a hearty red wine beef stew. In Burgundy the red wines are prima- rily made from the pinot noir grape and the white wines from the chardonnay grape. The great wines of the area are usually named after the vil- lages in which they are produced; for example, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vosne-Romanée, and Volnay. Cassis, a black currant liquor, is also produced in the region, and brandy from Cognac is a specialty. To the east, along the border with Switzerland, is the mountainous Franche-Comte region, known for its exceptionally tender and flavorful Bresse chicken.
The other major wine-producing region of France is Bordeaux, which is also the name of its principal city. Famous for its hearty dishes, the term à la bordelaise can mean (1) prepared in a seasoned sauce containing red or white wine, marrow, tomatoes, butter, and shallots; (2) use of mirepoix, a finely minced mixture of carrots, onions, and celery seasoned with bay leaves and thyme; (3) accompanied by cèpes, large fleshy mushrooms; or (4) accompanied by an artichoke and potato garnish. A red Bordeaux wine is full- bodied and made primarily from the cabernet sauvignon grape. (In Great Britain, Bordeaux is called claret.) Among the wines produced are St. Julien, Margaux, Graves, St. Emilion, Pomerol, and Sauternes, a sweet white dessert wine.
In the south of France is Languedoc, famous for cassoulet, a complex dish containing duck or goose, pork or mutton, sausage, and white beans, among other ingredients. Provence, located on the Mediterranean Sea, is a favorite vacation spot because of its warm Riviera beaches. Provence is also known for the large old port city of Marseilles, its perfumes from the city of Grasse, and the international film festival in Cannes.
The cooking of Provence is similar to that of Italy and Spain. Staple ingredients are tomatoes, garlic, and olive oil; à la Provençal means that a dish contains these three items. Other common food items are seafood from the Mediterranean, artichokes, eggplant, and zucchini. Popular dishes from the region are bouillabaisse, the famed fish stew made with tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, and several types of seafood, seasoned with saffron, and usually served with rouille, a hot red pepper sauce; ratatouille, tomatoes, eggplant, and zucchini cooked in olive oil; salade Niçoise, a salad originating in Nice, containing tuna, tomatoes, 148 NORTHERN AND SOUTHERN EUROPEANS
olives, lettuce, other raw vegetables, and some- times hard-boiled eggs; and pan bagna, a French bread sandwich slathered with olive oil and con- taining a variety of ingredients, such as anchovies, tomatoes, green peppers, onions, olives, hard- boiled eggs, and capers. One unique specialty item in the region associated with haute cuisine is black truffles. This costly, pungent under- ground fungus flavors or garnishes many classic French dishes.
Cooking Styles. Although the ingredients used in
the countries on the opposite sides of the English Channel are not substantially different, their cook- ing styles vary greatly. British and Irish food is described as simple and hearty fare that developed out of rural, seasonal traditions.3French cuisine
is admired for its fresh ingredients, attention to detail, and technical proficiency—and it is imitated around the world.
Great Britain and Ireland. Both the British and
the Irish take pride in the naturalness of their dishes and their ability to cook foods so the flavors are enhanced rather than obscured. In recent years the eating local movement (see Chapter 15, “Regional Americans,” for more details) and gov- ernment programs promoting regional specialties have lead to a renewed interest in traditional fare.16
Meat is usually roasted or broiled, depend- ing on the cut, and lightly seasoned with herbs and spices. Strong-flavored condiments such as Worcestershire sauce (flavored with anchovies, vinegar, soy, garlic, and assorted spices) on roast beef or mint jelly on lamb are often served. Chutneys, highly spiced fruit or vegetable pickles originally from India, are also popular. Leftover meat is finely chopped, then served in a stew, pie, or pudding. Offal, parts of the animal often dis- carded, such as lamb’s brains, pig’s tail, and calf’s heart, have become trendy items in England appre- ciated for both their traditional heritage and the ecological/ethical value of using the whole animal. While most Americans think of pies and pud- dings as being sweet desserts, in Britain and Ireland this is not necessarily the case. A pie is a baked pastry consisting of a mixture of meats, game, fish, and vegetables, or fruit, covered with or enclosed in a crust. A Cornish pasty is an indi- vidual pillow-shaped pie filled with meat, onions, potatoes, and sometimes fruit. Another well- known British dish is steak and kidney pie.
Pudding is a steamed, boiled, or baked dish that may be based on anything from custards and fruits to meat and vegetables. An example of a sweet pud- ding is plum pudding, which is served traditionally at Christmas. It is a steamed dish of suet, dried and candied fruit, and other ingredients. “Trifle” is a lay- ered dessert made from custard, pound cake, rasp- berry jam, whipped cream, sherry, and almonds.
France. Classic French cuisine implies a carefully
planned meal that balances the texture, color, and flavor of the dishes, similar to the harmony found in musical compositions or paintings.45The soul
of French cooking is its sauces, often painstak- ingly prepared from stocks simmered for hours to bring out the flavor. A white stock is made from fish, chicken, or veal; and a brown stock is made from beef or veal.7
Sauces are subtly flavored with natural ingre- dients, such as vegetables, wine, and herbs. They must never overwhelm the food, but rather com- plement it. The five basic sauces are espagnole
Chapter 6: Northern and Southern Europeans 149